RHODESIA TO THE NILE.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIII, Issue 294, 6 May 1911, Page 10

RHODESIA TO THE NILE.

ADVEXTt'TIES OF TWO ENGLISHMEN'. Messrs F. IT. Holland and E. N. Choimoley, of f.lic Chartered Company's service. just back in London, liave interesting stories to tell of a journey of six thousand miles undertaken by them. A third of this was from North-Eastern Rhodesia: to the Soudan frontier at (lOmlokorn, ami performed almost entirely 011 bicycles. After leaving their respective stations, the travellers proceeded from Abercorn to the German boundary, where they visited the Kalambo Falls, which, with a sheer drop of seven hundred feet, are probably the highest in the world. They then struck into the German Protectorate, where they spent a period of six weeks. In

many of the districts traversed the appearance of the cyclists caused considerable excitement, particularly among those tribes who had scarcely ever come into contact with Europeans.' After crossing the Anglo-German boundary, .Messrs Melland and Cholnieley struck south-west to Mwazye, in order to visit Rukwa Lake, which is interesting as it has no known outlet. This sheet of water lies at the bottom of a deep escarpment, the descent to which, being often of a gradient of two in three, was extremely dillicult, but was eventually accompli*...... in safety. The lake was at one time almost entirely dry, but subsequently lilled up again. At the north end, which was visited 011 this occasion, the water had again disappeared. The dried lake left a heavy deposit of potash, and during the dry season the deposit was blown about to such an extent that the sun was obscured. In the neighborhood the travellers visited some very interesting and littleknown tribes, some of whom arc ruled by a family entirely distinct from the people. This ruling caste is known as YVatwaki, and was founded by a woman called L'nda, who came from the north 150 years ago. One section of the tribe is now governed by a chief la iness called Sa, who has just succeeded an older ruler. She received the travellers with great ceremony, which was scarcely in keeping with her costume, which included hobnail boots and an old straw hat. Another member of the rising family had founded a religious house, and, witli three of her mends, are the only known cases of African women taking the veil. Referring to the progress of the German Protectorate, the travellers remarked on the activity and progress to be seen on all hands, undoubtedly due in large measure to the personal influence of Herr Dernbnrg, the late German Colonial Secretary, and his visit. The natives in the German sphere appeared to be contented and happy, and the administration seemed to be modelled on the system in vogue in the British Protectorates. Work on the railway was in active progress. After their tour of the German Protectorate, the travellers reached Hwanse, the German port on the south end of the Victoria Nyanza, in September, and travelled to Entebbe, and, after a flying visit to the Hast African Protectorate, returned to the Uganda capital, with the object of proceeding to the Soudan frontier. Motoring a distance' of 130 miles to the north-west, they reached Mubendi at Lake Albert. Here thej reconstituted thpir caravan, and again mounting their bicycles started for Ultima. At one portion of the road the natives refused to keep in camp, owing to the presence of lions, who were heard round the tents at night. The travellers then made a detour to the west, through very little known country. In the Bugoma forest the tropical growth was so dense that there was a condition of perpetual twilight, and it was only possible to read with diliiculty, even at midday. Herds of elepliant, numbering as many as 200, were encountered, and a giant forest hog, measuring 3ft. Oil), at the shoulder, was seen. After six weeks' big game hunting, the travellers struck the Nile in November. Here the carriers refused to go any further, owing to the disturbed state of the country, and fresh men, together with an escort of police and irregulars, were obtained. The district is closed to travellers, owing to the attitude of the tango people, who had recently murdered a government native agent and his followers, fortunately, on this occasion there was no trouble, and the expedition reached the Soudan frontier in December.