HISTORICAL TARANAKI

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIII, Issue 276, 12 April 1911, Page 3

HISTORICAL TARANAKI

UP TWO RIVER MOKAU. SCIONIC WONDERS. Part 11. The Hon. T. Mackenzie said, ju?t as he left the launch on its return with his party from a trip'up the river Mokau last week, that lie had just seen the most magnificent river scenery in New Zealand. Now, the honorable gentleman has seen a great deal of New Zealand's fauna and flora; he has tramped through parts hitherto untrodden by man; has explored what were believed to be inaccessible wilds and unscalable mountains; has discovered passes through the mountains dividing Otago from the Sounds; has, in short, a record of exploration and discovery in the Dominion perhaps unapproached by any living man. Therefore, his op'inion of the Mokau is of the highest value. To those who have been over the beaten track of New Zealand's scenic spots, the scenery of the Mokau appeals as the finest and most magnificent. Compared with it, that of the Wanganui appears poor and commonplace. On the Wanganui, the banks are high and precipitous;.often gaunt and frowning, relieved occasionally, however, by a rich dress of vegetation and bush. On the Mokau, the immediate hanks are comparatively low, the land rising at their backs in the form of so many tiers in majestic splendor, the whole being covered with a luxuriant growth of vegetation and forest. The vegetation on the banks is remarkable for its richness and variety. Ferns—they are there in myriads, of all .shapes and varieties, besides; pongas,; nikau palms,, flowering rata, and a host of ; others, combining with the reflection they give off in the placid waters below, to make a picture, or series of pictures, of unmatched beauty. And •there are so many pictures. Every bend, every reach of the river unfolds a fresh one, differing in its form, of beauty, perhaps, but still a triumph of Nature's beautiful handiwork/compelling appreciation if not admiration from the soul of the most prosaic. There are a few straight reaches, good enough, someone said, to serve as a deciding course for the world's next sculling championship. Here and there a slip has occurred on the side of a hill and the growth has not yet covered it. The fire has done its work in a few places, but it is remarkable how quickly th<! bush re-appears in all its vigor and beauty. scciisjonally may be seen an open space tifec life' sawmiller has been or is in operation, but for the big timber he has to go back: there is little get-at-able milling timber near the banks of the river. The beautiful native flowering plants and shrubs diversify and relieve the sombre green and density of the bush. As the launch threads its way slowly up the river, one catches glimpses of a brace of teal or grey-duck, hears the cheerful notes of the tui, or the merry chirp of the beautiful little fantail; darting along the banks one may see the king-fisher, and, if lucky, the native pigeon may favor one by a flitting visit. Then there are the kahu, or harriers; the, korimako, or bell-bird; the pipi-wharauroa, or bronze cuckoo; the whitehead, or popokatea; the parakeet, or karikari; the kaka: riroriro, or New Zealand wren, and the black-headed wren—all have their rendezvous in this valley of paradise, but the launch party were unlucky enough to see no specimens. If the journey up is picturesque, the return is even more so, especially if made towards nightfall. Then the shades give a fitting setting to the lovely pictures that are presented at every turn of the river and rivet themselves on the memory. ''This is paradise," exclaimed one of the voyageurs. "About as near as we'll get to it, I'm thinking," replied another. And in the case of most of us he was no doubt correct. THE RIVER DESCRIBED. But to leave generalities and to get down to details. To write intelligibly and informatively, we must seek tho assistance of those who know. We cannot do better than turn to the report published by the Government some time ago. Starting up the river to view the scenery, the first place of interest is Mahoe, on the right bank (from the source), where the Weslcyan missionaries founded a school in which the Maori children were taught to read and write, and to make mats, ropes, baskets and other useful articles. A cherry-grove now marks the site of the old school. FLEEING FROM ISLANDERS.

A little more than three miles from the mouth is the Rangiohua cliff, overlooking the river, at the end of a short ridge. The first pa of the district was said to have been erected here by the original occupants of the country as a protection against the invading 'Maoris from Hawaiki. As so often occurs in the traditions relating to the dim past, the marvellous enters into the account of the manner in which this tangata-whenua (or original people) escaped from Rangiohua. Being hard pressed by the more forceful people of Hawaiki, and seeing that the pa Rangiohua was bound to fall in the end, the inhabitants escaped by an underground passage, and came out at a very great distance from their homes—indeed, some say on the east coast. Probably there is some foundation for the story, and the people might well have got away by a passage only known to themselves, and this feat in time has become mixed up with the subsequent wanderings of the defeated people. The promontory on the opposite bank contains some very pretty bush, and as the river winds round it the visitor will get a very good idea of the scenery he may expect during the trip. IX THE LOWER REACHES. The river here winds in the shape of the letter S, and a corresponding promontory on the other bank is immediately met with. Low ridges of hills confine the valley, and from the tops down to the water's edge a thick vegetation terminating in native sedge'meets the sight. Five miles up an outcrop of limestone on the left bank is seen, and, though it has not yet been worked to advantage, it will probably be availed of in the future, where settlement increases in the district. A little above the limestone-outcrop, on the small plateau at the top of the range overlooking the river, is situated an ancient burial-ground of the Maoris. Reaching the G-miles distance from the mouth, it will be noticed that the river by this time has considerably narrowed—from a width of over half a mile to about -20011. Turning round another small bend, the Moango clearing is seen on the right band, and, although a distance of only about half a mile by crossing the peninsula here separates the river from its channel further up stream, it takes four miles by water to arrive at the same point. This old clearing,' with four miles of water frontage, is said to have been worked for timber during the Maori war, and is now well suited for fanning purposes. Coming round the Moanga bend, the Tawariki clearing is seen on the further .side, and immediately beyond is Oreenaway's old sawmill and clearing. Corresponding to the Moanga bend is a smaller one named Kapnilanilce, three miles in length. On the left bank, and forming the outer ridge of the semi-circle, on the opposite side, is a fine range of hills covered with L red-beech, terminating in. Puke-whero

'("the red Ml")." Fifini the 3W mile;\ip to the Manga'-awaViiio Yalle\T'lT*hi:W up, runs one continuous belt of native forest, covering the right bank in beautiful vegetation, and forming a magnificent sight to visitors. At the 13th mile, on the left bank, is a fine sandstone bluff about 50ft high, and on the opposite bank is the site of the old Taurangatoitoi pa, traces of the extensive cultivations which used to surrourid it being still visible. On the high hills at the back of the sandstone bluff are some old burial-places of the natives. Fifteen miles up, Rothory's old sawmill is reached, at the mouth of THE TOTARA STREAM, the land surrounding it being flat or undulating, and fairly well fitted for settlement; and a mile and a-half further on is Kelly's sawmill. Bordering tho river at tlie*l7th mile is the Torea Range, and running past one side of it is the Manga-awakino Valley and the Torea clearing, in which is placed Dive's new sawmill. The timber up the valley is much superior to that seen oh the banks, and, as the country opens put slightly, access to the back land is practicable. Soon after passing the mill the boundary of the Mokau Coal-mines Company's leasehold is reached, and, though some of the land fronting the river is fairly flat, the hills at the back are only suitable for reservation. At the 19th mile some rocks fallen into the stream from the adjacent bank are noticeable, and are the favorite resting-places for numbers of seagulls and other birds, the rocks being called by the Maoris "Kawhatututae." The country bordering the river is now more rugged in character than heretofore,! and the scenery improves in consequence, owing to the forest being shown to better advantage. At the 21st mile, the Manga-tawa rapids are met. with, although it is only at low water that they present much difficulty. On the left bank, a kiln has been erected to work the lime deposits in the vicinity. Between the the 22nd arid 23rd miles is the beautiful Mangatawa Reach, and the river then turns sharply round to the left, Tendering navigation somewhat awkward for steamers. Owing to this cause, the s.s. Tainui struck a sunken ledge of rock in 1907 and broke off her propeller, an involuntary stoppage and mooring at the place for three weeks bci»« thereby necessitated. Among the hills, which attain to a height of 200 ft on the left bank, is the site of an old pa, admirably adapted for defence and outlook. At the 24th mile is to be seen the trunk' of a red-beech tree which lias fallen from the" cliff into the river, and now remains firmly resting in the river's bed, but with its foe'stni attached to the cliff. This tree U locally known as the Black Rock, and two fern-covered rocks close' by are called by the Maoris "Nga-tamariki-o-Tumara (the sons of Tumaru), .. ■■■ THE LEGEND ' being that many years 8jE(0 an exploring party from the Ngati-Mahlapoto tribe, headed by a chief called Tumaril, whilst paddling down the rivqf, found two newly-born twin boys .lying exposed on a rock, and as no Qther persons could be found in the vicinity, Tumaru took the boys and adopted them. At the 25th mile may be seen an old landslip from the right bank, which by the action of the current is now formed into an island; anil, half a mile beyond.-the well-known coal-mines appear, they being only fifty yards from the stream, at the base of the slopes of a low ridge of hills, the clifffaces of which show white amid the bush and scrub. ABOVE THIS MINE. Soon after leaving the Mangapapa mine, the Manga-kawhia creek discharges itself into the" river on the right bank. Although the stream looks small from the river, yet its channel and valley are of much greater size farther back, and it drains a large extent of country. Nearly ppposite the creek is a rapid, and at the end of a short straight is the Manga-toi stream (on the right bank), at the foot of a short range of hills, which force the river to wind westward to circumvent them. The hills are about 500 ft high from the water's, edge, and the surrounding country is too steep for settlement. Turning the sharp bend, another range of hills, about 700 ft high, is seen on the onposite bank, and a. fine reach of ove» half a mile leads to the Manga-pohue stream, on the left bank. The rirer here turns to the east, and on the right bank, at the 28th mile, a pretty little waterfall, about 30ft high, is seen, the first one on the river's bank since leaving Mokau township. Half a mile further on is a second waterfall, about 40ft high, on the same side of the river. The scenery here is very fine, continuous ridges of hills running down from the back ranges to the river's edge, and between them many little streams witn fern and bushclothed banks are seen disappearing into the belt of forest which covers all this country. Between the 29th and 30th miles is

A FINE CASCADE on the right bank, about 90ft high, the cliffs on either side rising to about 200 ft. Beyond the 30.th mile the direction of the river changes to north-east, and a long series of rapids and rocky gorges renders the stream difficult for navigation except in canoes, whilst a considerable amount of snagging is required to improve the channel. The famous Panirau rapid is reached at the 31st mile, and the visitor may here pause to view. the surrounding scenery with close attention. Undoubtedly this is one of the most attractive portions of the Mokmi river, as its charms are shown off to full advantage by the character of the country and the innumerable diversity in the general color-scheme, the changing lights and shadows among the vivid forestgrowth, the bewildering tints of green to be descried in the wealth of ferns, nikaus, young plants, older forest giants, and the [requent carpet of native sedge j the varied hues of the winding river, ranging from the dazzling foam of the successive rapids to the dark translucency of the placid reaches, wfhich reflect on their shining mirror the fernclad banks and wooded ridges, whilst above all a summer sky of purest azure, only broken by the occasional passages of fleecy wliitc clouds, makes the sight of the Molcnu on a fine day an experience never to be surpassed. One appears to be in the midst of unspoilt nature and limitle=s verdure. As far as the sisrht r-nn reach, an evergreen forest stretches in an unbroken covering over the undulating hills and steeper ranges, and down the valley of this fascinating region flows n river rich in legendary lore, and serving as a gateway to " A SCEXIC PARADISE. The following description bv Mr. James fo\van. Department of Tourist and Health Resorts, gives a very good idea of the scenery further up the river:— "Paniran, on the Upper Mokau, is an uncommonly beautiful spot. Here the river, after sweeping round in a sharp bond just where the Panirau stream joins it (left bank), roars down in a long rapid, or series of rapids, which form the mo?t serious obstacle to navigation on the whole course of the river. 'Pnni-rau' means 'many orphans': it is an allusion to the dangerous character of this part of the river, and to the frequent canoe"capsizes and drowning accident here in former times, when the 'Mokau was a much-used channel of Maori canoe traffic. At the head of the rapids is a small island, which is a convenient campinggrounil for canoe-crews, unless the river is very liigh. The Panirau creek enters the Mokau close to the island, flowing j n i through a narrow gorge between two

lofty tree-shadowed.- banks.. This stream L in ancient days WjCui.ii ; ,X '•• THE ROUTE TAKEN BY WARPARTIES / i bound for the Ohura Valley and the Upper Wangaiiui. The clill' and mountain scenery is very wild and bold. On either side of the rapid-wln'toed Mokau the great ranges rise steeply for about a thousand feet, clothed with forest to the sky-line; and just above the rapids, in the bend, the river flows through a narrow gorge ' where every sign of rock and soil is hidden by densely growing timber, ancient trees covered with moss and kiekie, and every crevice is filled with beautiful ferns. ' "Just above the great bend there is a" splendid smooth reach, with the Ranga-a-Waitara forested range rising precipitously, a razor-backed wall, on the right-. hand side. Then more rapids are breasted, the Otukihi, where the obstructions are rocks, not snags, and where the water curls in glassy curves and waves over slippery rounded boulders. These rapids bore a reputation of dread among the Maoris. Two of the children of the King Country chief Tawhana ' were drowned here by the capsize of a canoe. In this ■ part the river is strewn with mossy boulders; on these rocks piharau, or lampreys, are often found after floods. About half a mile beyond Otukihi are THE MAHUENL'I RAPIDS, where the river pours down over rough boulders—a dangerous place for canoe's. Poling up this swift run, we soon came to another rapid, the Turanga-a-Pou, which was evidently caused by a heavy slip from the banks. A good deal of snagging is required here. The ranges on either side of the Mokau now lessen in height, but the river retains itsgorgy character. Between the several rapids there are long, still, calm reaches, overhung by forest trees of large size, hung with creepers and mosses. Two more rnpids, the Mahue-iti and Mangatakiora, are within half a mile of each other: both ] are swift glassy runs over rocky obstructions and sunken logs. The little Mangatakiora stream comes in here on our left. Presently there are signs of civilisation again, a welcome break after the great solitudes of the forest. At the Matai bend we come upon a pioneer settler's home, Riddell's clearing, a ■ very lovely spot. There is now a succession of rapids to be overcome—the Matai, the long run of the Tahu-mataroa, the boulder-strewn Aroarohangi, and tho ilangaharakeke (Flax Crcnk), named after a small "stream which here joins the river The banks here are low and well wooded; tawa and miro are the predominating timber. Shrubs and fern bend over the banks beneath the large trees, and the reflections in the still clear reaches arc marvellously, beautiful. Bird-life is plentiful; wild pigeons and tui are frequently seen feeding on the miro arid kowhai trees along the banks. "At Whakapapa and KatfakaWrt, about forty miles from the sea, the forest gives place to manuka and high fern ftfld" shrubby vegetation; the soil here is ev'i-' dently very rich, and should make the best of fanning land. Several small rapids are encountered;- Te Poko and Iwitu arc the principal. Here we had to get out and haul our canoe up over the shallows. The runs are not swift, but in summer-time the depth of water is so small that launches would have considerable difficulty unless tiie methods of navigation adopted on the Wanganui are introduced here. "At Kaiwaka, a short distance below Totoro, there are to be seen the remains of a very large pa-tuna, or eel-weir, built of stout manuka stakes driven into the river-bed. This pa was constructed about five years ago by Te Rangituataka, the highest chief of the Ngati-Maniapoto tribe, and brother to the late celebrated Wetere to Rcrenga, of Mokau Heads. Rangi had this pa erected in the expectation of making a big haul of the silvery eels which abound here in March and April for a great tribal feast; hut a flood swept half of the weir away, and the old chief interpreted this as a tohuaitua, or omen of death or misfortune to himself, and not long afterwards he died at his home at Mahoenui. "The European settlement at Mahoenui, on the Awakino-Te Kuiti road, is about two miles from the canoe-landing at Kaiwaka, and no doubt this landing will be found a more convenient terminus for the river traffic than Totoro, a mile or so higher up the Mokau."