HISTORICAL TARANAKI

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIII, Issue 275, 11 April 1911, Page 3

HISTORICAL TARANAKI

NEW PLYMOUTH TO MOKAW. 1 ran. I. After travelling and making even a superficial acquaintance with the country lying between New Plymouth and Mokau, one can quite understand, and appreciate, how it was that the Maoris for generation after generation fought so valiantly to retain it against the persistent and determined efforts of their envious neighbors to the north and south. For the land was ever fruitful and supplied them abundantly with all that went to make living in those primitive days happy and contented. The ground was rich' and only had to be tickled to bring forth prolific crops of kumara and taro; the sea and rivers were teeming with fisli that required little humoring or finessing to land: and the beautiful buslv was the home of myriads of birds of nil sizes and kinds that walked into the ingenious traps set for them by the resourceful native. MAORI STRONGHOLDS. The whole country is atudded with the remains of Maori strongholds. The natives seem to have had an unerring eye for the selection of the best points for their strongholds and in making the most of their natural advantages. We may see even now (thanks to that patriotic and far-seeing body of men responsible for the -preservation of the historial spots of these and other parts), in a remarkable state of preservation, fortresses, the strength and ingenuity of which are the surprise and wonder of the foremost military engineers, who, indeed, have gained points in the matter of fortifications from the primitive Maori warriors. The times were strenuous, and the Maoris had to fight or go under and make way for ■ his hungry and jealous enemy. And, therefore, he was forced to concentrate upon making the most of the material and conditions at his disposal for his protection. AX ENCYCLOPEDIA. The party that made the trip to the Mokau last week were fortunate in having the company of Mr. W. H. Skinner, who has as good a knowledge of the district, its traditions, history and customs as probably any living man. To him Taranaki owes a big debt of gratitude. for .it is due to his initiative that so much has been done to reserve and protect the scenic and historical .spots of the province and the acquiring and setting aside as a part of the Mt Egmont National Park the beautiful Kaitake Hills. He appears to know every inch of territory, its history and associations. He is an inexhaustible mine of information. Consequently the trip was invested with more than usual interest to those who had the pleasure of accompanying him by car and launch. .

HISTORICAL SPOTS. Probably no part of the district is associated with more historical events than the neighborhood of Mokau. Facing the pea-coast, at the hack of the township, is the site of the old Topnpahiki pa of the JCgati-Rakei. the scene of a massacre bv Te Rauparaha in 1821. About a mile this side of the heads is a musselreef, the scene of many a severe fight between the Ngatitama and the Ngatimaniapoto tribes. It was almost impossible for an invader to enter the territory south of the Mokau without passing through the narrow open space near this mussel-reef. It was a veritable gateway, and in the fighting that took place for its possession thousands and thousands of natives must have been killed. Growing near the heads arc groves of the historical Tainui trees, which arc said to have sprung from the rollers, skids atld flooring of tbe great canoe "Tainui," which brought Soto? of .the ancestors of the present Mttori race to Kawliia, whence some of them afterwards • settled at Tongaporutu, Mokau and Awakirio. It is only near Mokau and Kawhia that the tree grows in New Zealand, it having been discovered by Sir James Hector in IS7S. Half-a-mile from the Heads, and a little off the fairway, is a curiously shaped sandstone rock to which the Tainui canoe is supposed to have been moored when the. Maoris first came to Mokau. On the river-bank, at the present Maori settlement of Te Kauri, may be seen an old totara tree trunk, supposed to have drifted from Kawliia, and to have been deposited by an unusually high tide at this place. It was made "tapu," or sacred, by the Maoris, and has always been regarded with deference, evil having been .said to have happened to any rash person who interfered with it. On a small hill overlooking the township, known as Maungapakeha (stranger's hill), the early missionaries erected a church, and in the adjoining churchyard are buried the hereditary chiefs of the Ngatimaniapoto. At the back of the hill may be seen the ruins of an old mill established before the Maori war in 1800, and on the site—Tokomaru—-grape-vines grow.

THE -SIEGE Of THE XGATIMAXIAPOTO. In the good old days two Maori tribes liycd near Mokau Iloads. The XgatiTama of Poutama dwelt on the south t side of the river, with boundaries extending to a couple of miles south of the White Cliffs, and the Xgati-Maniapoto and their minor branches on the north side, and, as may easily be imagined, tribal fights were frequent, and often on apparently very trivial grounds. On one occasion (supposed to be about seventylive years ago), some of the XgatiManiapoto were fishing at the Heads in a small eanoe, and caught a large schnajipcr. Coming back with their catch, just inside the bar. they saw some of the Xgati-Tama wate lung them, and in defiance held up, for tliem to see, the large lish they had just caught. This was at a point now called I'ure (the Place of Law). The Xgati-Tama immediately claimed possession of the fish, as it was caught within their tribal waters; but the Xgati-inaniapoto resumed their paddling up the river for about half-a-mile, where they rested at a place now called Te To, where the Xgati-llama once more claimed p< issessiou of the schnappcr. This was again refused, and the Xgati-Tama. continuing their paddling, reached a third place, half a mile further on, where they landed, and hung up their catch of fish to dry and bo cured. This place is called Te Kainga. This and other incidents led to the siege of the Xgati-Maniapoto 011 a small island situated in the river about a mile and a-half from the mouth, known at Motu-tawa. The following account was written by Mr. N. Percy-Smith, and supplies a most, interesting history of the principal occurrences in the district:— After the great expedition of XgatiITaua and other tribes, which came to Poutama to seek revenge for the death of Tai-porntu, had been hurled back by the bravery of Xgati-Tama. there was apparently a transient, peace or truce between the latter tribe and their northern neighbors at Mokau for some ten or twelve years. At any rate, no incident has come to our knowledge marking that period, though, 110 doubt, the enmity in which these tribes had lived for -0 many generations would not allow of any available chance of striking a blow to be passed over. Rut- there were 110 great expeditions, and both sides would, 110 doubt, be glad of a few years' rest in order that the boys should grow to maturity and be trained as warriors. But

about the yenr l?.!-2 (so far as can be ascertained) hostilities set in again through AX ACT 01' BRUTALITY on the part of Xgati-Tama whilst on a visit to Motu-tawa. Moiu-tawa is a pretty little island situated in a deep bay in the Mokau river, about threequarters of a mile within the Heads on the northern shore, now covered with bushes and small trees. It is about lialf an acre in extent, with dill's nearly all round, rising up from the waters to about fifty or sixty feet, but not equally steep on all sides. At low water the bay is dry, but as the tide rises it surrounds the island to a depth of perhaps four to six feet of water, On the iliit top of this island in former days was built a strong palisaded and embanked pa, the refuge and stronghold of the Mokau people. On one side is a convenient spring of fresh water. Xgati-Tamn were apparently on such terms with the Mokau people about this time that tlicy were admitted into the pa and hospitably feasted, but at the same time my informant (old Rihari. of Mokau) says that they were on a taua. What the exact circumstances were sre not of much consequence. 1 ! -Hiring the feasts two boys of the l'itonga and Nga-whakarcwa-k: eel themselves to the food provided set apart for Xgati-Tama. They were reproved for this, but again repeated the •ffence. This roused the wrath of XgatiTama, who—probably seeking a take, or cause, against the pa, and seeing here their chance—knocked the, unfortunate boys on the head. There was an immediate rush to arms, and

A DESPERATE FIGHT commenced between the two parties. But it was not of long duration. XgatiTama drove their hosts pell-mell out of the pa and took possession of it. The parents of the boys, together with the whole of the Xgati-Rakei of those parts, fled with the utmost expedition to the forest which even to this day lines the shores of the little bay in which Motutawa is situated, and* gradually made their way through the country to Otorohanga, in the Waipa Valley—now a station on the Main Trunk railway—to join some of their relatives then'. Here the people settled down for three years, not daring to return to their own country at Mokau, which was in occasional occupation of Xgati-Tama and some of the Ati-Awa tribes. The exiles dwelt amongst their friends at Otorohanga, as has been said, for about three years, cultivating 011 the lands of others or manene, or strangers, and feeling generally uncomfortable through this fact. When the strong westerly winds used to blow from the coast the old people would listen to the far-distant sound of the breakers dashing on the shore—which they could hear from the. ranges not far from Otorohanga—and snifT the sadfc-ladcn breezes of their old home. Then the people would greet nnd lament over the misfortunes which liad taken them so far from their beloved homes. This feeling became so strong at last that the chiefs consulted together, and determined to attempt

THE RE-CONQUEST of their lands and homes. Te Wharauroa, who at that time was leader of Xgati-liakei, Xgati-Hia, and other Mokau. hapus, raised a war party from those tribes, and started from Otorohanga 011 their long and risky journey. They came up the Mangapapa Valley by Te Anauriuri on the Waipa-Mokau water-part-ing, and thence to the head of the Mokau, and down that river by canoes to Te Mahoe, a bend in the river sonffc two miles from the mouth. Here the party went into camp, carefully concealing all signs of smoke, etc,, .whilst spies were sent out to see where the Xgati-Tama were. They returned, and reported that the enemy was all over the country at the mouth of fchtf river, and along the coast southward, but that the principal number were gathered at a village they had built about half-way between Mokau and I-lohaka-tino. A council was then held to consider how the war-party might reach this village without being seen, and finally a plan was adopted. Starting at dawn one morning, they crossed the river and concealed their canoes in the little creeks just opposite Te Mahoe, and from there climbed the steep forest range which leads up to the high hill named Tawariki, and where there is now a trigstation. From here they followed tiie ridges that, run parallel to the coast until they cameout at the Mohaka-tino river, about a mile from its mouth. The party was now between Ngati-Tama and any succor they might receive from their own people to the south. Arrived at the seabeach, \Vharau-oa instructed all his party to trail their spears and other arms along the sands, with one end fastened to their ankles by a flax-string. The party now advanced along the beach in careless order, some shouting, some singing, some skidding flat stones along the wet sands, all of which was done to make XgatiTama think it was a party of their friends from the south coming to visit them.

A GREAT BATTLE. The war party wa.s 140 topu (i.e., 2SO) strong, whilst the Xgati-l'ania and AtiAwa were said to be more numerous. As they drew near the village many of the women, children and some of the men came down to the bfach to meet the visitors. When Wharau-roa saw the time was coming he 'gave the signal, and in an instant the spears were seized and a_ charge made into the unsuspecting Ngati-Tama. all of whom were killed. The rest of Xgati-Tama in the village, seeing what was going on, armed and rushed down the beach to meet the foe. Here, on the beach, these ancient enemies fought it out, it is said, during two Hood tides—hence the name of the battle, Nga-tai-pari-rna (the Twice-flowing Tide). No doubt there i.s some truth in the story, or the name would not have been given. The cml of the ficjlit saw XgatiRakei and their allies victorious for once over Xgati-Tama. who. after losing a number of men, were obliged to retreat. They fell back on their impregnable stronghold, Te Kawau, where they were safe. The Mokau people went on and occupied their old homes on the river, greatly to their delight, savs my informant., and he adds, '"The .\lokau peonle have to thank my grandfather Te Wha-rau-roa for saving their country for them."

This siese (if Mofu-tawa referred to above i.s not the only one that has occurred. After the defeat of the groat AAaikato army at X«a-niotu (Otaka, near tlie Sugarloavc*). in which, however, the Aii-Awa a"d aliicd tribes suffered considerably, these tribes, to square accounts with Waikato and Xirati-Maniapoto. sent a lana against the people. who retired to (heir island fortress of Motn-tawa. where ihoy were be?:"f">d. Owin.r to a split in the council of the invaders, the siege was finally abandoned after a 'rood ileal of fijilitinir had taken place, in which both sides suffered. This was early in 1832, and shortly after tlie return 'of the Ati-Awa forces the bulk of them migrated to Port Xieholson. a BEArrm'L is laxd.

The following account of Motu-tawa, by llr. .lames Cowan, conveys a, good idea of the beauty of the island"Motutawa cover.s about two or three acres, and is thickly clothed with beautiful n*ti?e'Tegetatioil. For most of its circumference. it is protected bv bold banks, which formed part of its defences in the old Maori fighiing-davs, when the island was a strong pa'of the Xgati-Maniapoto

tribe. On tile northern side it* slopes are covered with fine groves of karaka, mangeao, and rewamra, with ponga tree ferns. There are high parapets on this side overgrown with flax, koroiniko, etc., > and the I'at fop of the island is thick! with old food-pits and remains of whares, On the beach the stumps of the ancient I totara palisade-posts are still to be -ecu. On the side facing Mokau township, there is a pretty little rock grotto overhung with ferns, shelterin? a never-fail-ing spring of fresh water, known io the Maoris as Te Ara-paopao. It was this spring that generations ago enabled tile Ngati-Maniapoto people, when besieged there, to hold out for many months against their enemies from Taranaki. when otherwise tliey would have been forced to surrender through thirst. It was an almost impregnable stronghold in the days of inter-tribal warfare. At the present time it is regarded as semisacred by the Maoris, being a former burial-place of the natives."