WOMAN'S WORLD.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIII, Issue 87, 21 July 1910, Page 6

WOMAN'S WORLD.

FASHIONAND. THE BEAUTIES OF MOURNING ATTIRE. „ .. . London, May 27. luishnig wildly into fashions, and adopting them without adapting tlior.i. proves fatal to the appearance of man v woman.—Woman at Home. Now that all the London world is hj, mourning, black clothes are the on:v things that can 'be confidently talked about. One comforting fact at least has come to light in this sudden compulsory plunge into sombre garments, and that is that mourning becomes most people. There is a great dignity and simplicity about a complete black toilet that adds distinction to many a woman who, in bright clothes, looks vulgar at the worst and insignificant at the best. It is in a time of general mourning, such as this, that the reflection comes homo with special force, and one notes that London appears filled with distinguishedlooking women, in place of the noTiiin script feminine population usually as in all large cities. It is a tremendous pity that fashion must come back on the land now that mourning is ordered for a definite time, for there is no doubt. Whatever that the reason Englishwomen look so trim and well-dressed is that that despot Madame la Mode has discreetly remained in the background in the last sad fortnight and the mourning nation —suddenly left to its own devices • —has bought what best suited it, and the solemnity of the time, with no desire to outshine others or regard for fashion's latest freak. The King's kindly thought in shortening the period of mourning by a full month will be greatly appreciated, not only by those who would have to buy a complete summer outfit of black, but more by the tradespeople, whose large stocks, bought months ago, Would have represented only dead loss.

Full mourning now is only to last until June 17, and half-mourning may end on June 30, so that there will be little hardship in putting off the donning of summer finery for so short a time out of respect for the memory of the late King.

MILLINERY. In the matter of mourning millinery there is plenty of choice at the moment, for now that the first rush is over, rresh supplies of black flowers and feather mounts, jet ornaments and new varieties of Mack lace and bl&ck embroidered net are arriving in London dailv. Except for the fact, therefore, that everything must be black just for the present, there will be a fascinating variety in the way of trimming and style. Fine black crinoline and the new lace Tagel, which shows an open-work plait, are the favorite straws at the moment, while black esprit net, tulle and chiffon, lightly gathered Upon a framework of silk-covered wire, are also being employed for the making of millinery for afternoon wear. For everyday wear the large French sailor shapes remain unrivalled, and' they are likely to be worn all through the. summer, since they give a comfortable amount of protection to the eyes, while they are also generally very becoming. Made in fine black straw, they look best when they are trimmed quite simply with a band and bow of black Velvet ribbon. ■ They are sometimes arranged, however, with a more elaborate kind of decoration, in the shape of a full ruche of black silk poppies and poppy zuds, intermingled with black velvet foliage. The cloche shapes seem to be coming into favor, in spite of their close resemblance to inverted wastepaper baskets, and it cannot be denied that although they are frankly ugly in themselves, they are becoming to certain types of face and styles of coiffure. One of these cloche hats, in black Ta,?el straw, is trimmed on one side towards the front with a cluster of black ostrich feathers, the stems of which are held by a jetted clasp, while another chapeau of similar shape has for sole adornment a big bunch of black oats, rising out of a chou of Wack soft satin.

ODDS AND ENDS. ! Among new jabots, collars and belts the black note is insistent. The Claudine models, worn with the Magyar blouse, are rendered in black mousseline de soie, either with or without a narrow white hem. PRINCESS GOWNS. The Princess gown, modified in a variety of ways, still holds its own, but ' more bodices and skirts are being made separately than of yore. The waist line is now 'well defined, the waist having come into its right place again. Long l fines prevail in draperies, though a few 5 "fishwife" styles are seen on very slim '* figures. ; j SKIRTS. The kilted effect in skirts, many will • be delighted to hear, has been given back to us. The "tube" dresses are suitable for very few of us, and they are not so become as the flowing hem, though care i must foe taken that the extra width of 1 material does not show, except well be- ; low the hips. Gowns of softer fabrics j are all gathered at the waist, and the : folds of the dress caught in below the knees, whether there be a tunic or not: and though this is a very beautiful fashion, according to great dressmakers, it is not very comfortable to walk in. Anyone who is not a good walker should bar this mode, for it displays many drawbacks in this direction. THE NEW COIFFURE. The Incorporated Guild of Hairdressers have given their august dictum as to the new coiffure, of which tl;e dominant features is curls, fascinating curls everywhere; and every woman will rejoice to hear that the reign of the "flat-backed" head is over. A hunch of loose, floating curls will adorn the head instead of the little curls forming a kind of high chignon. Little "tendril" curls stray over the nape of the neck, and three little curls fall daintily from the temple to the cheek at each side of the face. TO [RENOVATE VELVET. It is probable, I should think, judging from the great popularity of velvet in

the winter just past here, that that queenly material will have first place among fashionable fabrics in the New Zealand winter, and T. therefore, have copied out some simple and excellent directions for renovating a velvet frock at home, that may be appreciated by my readers. 'Hang the gown up, well spread out. in a bathroom, shut up all cracks of doors or windows, and turn on the hotwater tap, letting the bath fill to the brim. Now shut the door, leaving the room full of steam, which will make the pile of the velvet rise beautifully. Leave the for a good hour. Then open the doors and windows of the bathroom, so that the through draft may dry the steamed dress. Do not touch or remove it until it is absolutely dry.

MOTOR BONNETS AND FACE LOTIONS.

The newest thing in motor bonnets, before the calamity that plunged all into mourning occurred, was a shape swathed in Paisley-patterned ninon, with strings of chifl'on, finished oil the brim at each side with a large apple and apple leaves.

And from motor bonnets to a face cream would not be a big jump, but face lotions of any kind it is difficult to recommend, as* many good for one skin ruin another. A homely specific for sunburn and wind troubled skin, which will do much towards counteracting the effects of sun and wind, is that of squeezing out a bag of oatmeal in the water before washing. The oatmeal shonl.l, however, first be boiled, as in making porridge, and when swollen and wellcooked, enclosed in a bag of butter muslin, perfumed, if liked, with powdered orris root, so a; to give it the scent of violets. If this is kneaded in a basinful of water each time the face is washed it will be found excellent for the skin. When applying a skin food to the face the tips of the ears should not be forgotten, as they are apt to redden quickly.

A SUBSTANTIAL REWARD. The colonies and colonial life are being brought to the notice of all women just now by a prize offered by the Daily Mirror to any girl—not younger than eighteen and not older than twenty-iivc years—who sends to the editor the best essay of not more than 200 words giving five reasons why she wants to go to the colonies. The prize is only to be awarded on receipt of a letter from the parents or guardians of the winner, should she' be under twenty-one years of age, giving full consent to her taking up this course of training. The course will be taken at Lady Ernestine Hunt's College for Training Girls for Colonial Life, at Cosham Park, near Portsmouth, Hants. It will include every branch of domestic work —cookery (plain and high class), the making and baking of bread and cakes, etc., gardening, laundry work, riding, driving, stable work, and a numyer of other subjects. During the three months that the course will last the Srize-winner will receive tuition and oard and lodging at Cosham Park free. Lady Ernestine Hunt has a vast experience of colonial life. She is a daughter of the fifth Marquis of Ailesburv, and she has quite recently founded this training college at Cosham, a village four miles from Portsmouth.