WOMAN'S WORLD.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIII, Issue 60, 20 June 1910, Page 6

WOMAN'S WORLD.

FASHIONLAND HATS AXD VEILS. London. April 29. ■Second in favor to erfinson roses and buds as millinery trimminj is violet in all its 'beautiful shades, and a couple 01 ■pretty hats that have come to my notice this week will well bear description for the edification of the home milliner. The first was a bewitching toque, the whole high crown composed of tiny mauve and pink roses at once side. The second was a large hat in the dainty haymaker shape so fashionable for young faces. This was of loosely-plaited creamy straw, underlined with pansy velvet, the point of the 'brim swathed in mauve gauze, and two gold quills boldly introduced as trimming behind the gauze from right to left. Turban toques are still to be seen, hut they no longer' can he regarded as "the latest thing," and it is to be hoped that their stupid nglh ness may soon disappear for ever, and the graceful outlines of a woman's head and neck once more be allowed us to gaze upon 'behind some less hideous "enveloper." Blade velvet and fur turbans are, of course, out of place in the late spring, 'but these have given way to veiled atrocities that hug the ears and neck, and leave never a curl to trap the admirer's eye. Veils alter only to attain an extra degree of eccentricity. The latest to cause a sensation in Paris is a black net covered with cut jet in large squares, covered with a sequin border." .SIMPLE FROCK FOR A GIRL. A very pretty dress, easily made and laundered, suitable for girls of fourteen to eighteen, or—slightly elaborated, perhaps—for a "grown up," is made in one from the neck to the hem, with elbow sleeves and a Peter Pan collar niched round the top. From the shoulders to the foot of the s'kirt, back and front, ore two lines of 4in soft embroidery, flatly stitched on, and round the skirt, one row above the knee iand the other 3in« lower, are lines of embroidery beading, through, which .ribbon i 9 run, and finished with little ibows above the embroidery I

trimming in front. The sleeves, made to iron out flatly, have a couple of rows of 'beading,' one below the shoulder and one at the elbow, which can be drawn in with ribbon and tied, and just above and 'below the waist two more lines of beading enable the .pretty frock to be drawn in to the figure. SLEEVES. A capital plan in these days of changi s is to buy, when ordering a blouse length of material, enough, extra stuff for a second pair of sleeves, in case they should* 'become recessary. The kimono sleeve continues to be, perhaps, prime favorite, though it is a (pity that women do not realise that it is more unbecoming to the majority of the sex. FASHION PAPERS AT LOGGERHEADS. Apropos of this sleeve, the following, taken from two well-known fashion papers", will amuse readers. The oracle of Fashions For AH 'bids us all to the fashioning of the Magyar blouses:— "Another one-piece garment is tie Magyar blouse, which has flown into instant popularity, for it is so becoming, and its construction is so simple, that the most awkward fingers are capable of fashioning it at ihome. It is cut in kimono style, with seams only at the side, and under one arm," it saysj wihile' Lewis' Magazine, with the conviction, it would seem, of the experienced home dressmaker, warns our ambitious fingers on exactly the same subject:—"'The kimono sleeve, cut in one witih 'the bodice, is greatly in favor, 'but the home dressmaker will do well to avoid' this. Mess made by a skilful hand the effect is de■plorable." Which is the one to believe? Only the home dressmaker can rig-fitly answer.

HAIRI>RESSDs T G. The turban fashion of faairdressing is still fashionable, though in a much prettier style than when first introduced 1 , The hair is ■puffed loosely around the frame, and over it strands of wavy hair, or ripples i of little curls, look mucH prettier than the absolutely straight locks that were all we saw a year ago. A new idea is that of substituting for a turban ribbon a swathe of hair. Whose, you'll ask? Nine women out of ten cannot face this new style, which requires that the turban be surrounded with these long swathes of hair and hosts of tiny | cutls, without; very substantial aid from | the hairdresser's shop. Neck curls aTe fashionable. Very pretty bandeaux are, to 'be seen now. One very handsome oire'. •I was shown at the Ideal Home Exhibition was designed and' made by Mrs. F. Palotta, Grace Palotta's sister-in-law, and had five or six long, slender leaves worked in silver loosely attached to* a silver wire, which allowed them to-wiry a little. Others that are quite up- to date can be made at home on a wire framework, and are composed of douible rows of imitation pearls finished at the sides with jeweffiedi buckles. These should be worn fairly low on the forehead to get the correct classical effect.

NOTES FOR WOMEN. MR. GLADSTONE'S DAUGHTER. It is only on her retirement from the Borough of Southwark that much of the good! work so unostentatiously done for years past in that district, for the uplifting of the submerged classes, has been gratefully ascribed to Miss Helen Gladstone, daughter- of the famous statesman. 'She has been at the head of the Women's University Settlement in I Nelson Square, a member of the Public I Libraries and Museums Committee, and J connected with many other public bod'ss, | and her retirement is felt as i loss. I EMINENT SUFFRAGETTE SUPPORTER. No less a person that Bismarck has declared himself, on the eve of his retirement from public life, to be an ad-

voeate of women's suffrage. "I respect," says the great man, ''every woman who* elevates us men, teaches us religion and morality, preserves our ideals, and scatters roses along the path of our earthly life. I have long wished for the co-operation of wonwn in polities, but we are not yet advanced enough. Women should not encroach upon men, •but should influence and soften them, an I lead them to good works. What 1 am 1 have .become through my w?re." It will greatly please feminine readers to hear that Bismarck thinks a woman "can keep ;a secret. "If women," he says, "were in politics fewer secrets would become public, for n clever feminine mouth can keej) silent. Yet in the midst of innocent conversation it understands how to extract many a secret which it keeps from us men. iVomer: chatter so delightfully about the gravest topics that one—when one is an old donkey—fails to notice one .has said more than one wished'' / WOMEN: MEDICOS AT LEEDS. By a recent decision of the Board of the * Leeds Infirmary, women students will in future be admitted to the practice of the infirmary. As the lectures and laboratory courses of the medical school of the UV'-'vsity are already open to women, this step will enable them to receive the -vV.ole of their medical education at L.eds.

NOT TO BK GULLED. That not all 'ii'ds may he ta'ken in by the terror of a sca.ve.crow is-evident from the fact that at Kncbworth, in Leicestershire, a bird ihas built its nest in the side <pocket of a sham "man." £3OO PRIZE WON BY A WOMAN. Details of "The Piper," the prize play by Miss Josephine Preston Peabody, chosen out of over 300 competitors, show it to he full of beautiful stake effects. A committee of about twenty read the plavs, and it included Miss Ellen Terry, SirW. Richmond, and Mr. Henry James. A smaller committee ultimately fixed upon two plays, which seemed of about equal merit. One was by Mr. Lawrence : Binyon, the other by Miss Josephine Preston Peabody, and the Duke or Argyll, chairman of the committee, chose the latter for ipreesntation at Stratford-on-Avon, and to its author the prize will be presented after its first performance. Miss Peabody is an American, of the old Boston Quaker family, and is married to a Harvard .professor, of Warwickshire birth. "The Piper" Is a poetical play, lending itself to beautiful stage effect's, founded on the old legend of Hamelin. After the piper plays the children out of the town, carrying the little cripple, who, in the old version, gets 'left behind, the story breaiks away from that told by Browning in bis famous poem. The children are sent to an old haunted monastery in "The Hollow Hill," which the townspeople will not come near. They are kept there by the piper, not because be wants the burghers' money,, but because the people of Hamelin are so materially minded that they are not worthy of their children. There are some charging scenes in "Ttee Hollow Hill,"' and at the crossways on the heath outside, before the piper relents and brings the children back to their now repentant parents. Mr. ¥. R!. Benson will play Piper.

THE STORY OF A OOAT. A pathetical'y tumorous anecdote, Wd ifay the Bishop of London at a meeting of the Church of England Temperance Societv, related to a boy 'who was unable to keep a coat because Ms mother; pawned every one to obtain drink. While ; in camp with the boys' 'brigade, tlie lnd' jumped into the water and rescued a'; dog, and as the two emerged, drippingwet, he said: "Mother wouldn't get much-; for this coat now." The officers and ' members of the brigade, in recognition of his pjuck, bought the boy a coat with ibrass buttons,-wihich did'not, as they expected, follow the fate of the others. They enquired the reason:. "I sleep in it," was the simple answer. THE DESPAIR OF TEE" HYGIENIST. Dr. Haig Ferguson, in a lecture at the Edinburgh Royal Infirmary, had some I severe things to say about tihe clothing '. of the adult woman. It was, he sam, | tempered by fashion and superstition, and nothing could be a greater tribute ( to the strong nerves and powerful muscles of women than the fact" that their health .had survived for centuries their habits of clothing. A woman's elofTTihg was the despair of the hygienist. Children and girls were more sensibly clad, but when girls grew up they were o«;en clothed in"a way which made them unable to walk, run, or breathe. Weighty skirts, low-necked gowns, ".pneumonia" blouses, the modern hat, thee high-heeled shoe, with its pointed toe, were all condemned.

WIVES IN UGANDA. Major It. G. T. Bright (lately Chief British Commissioner of" the Uganda- : Congo Boundary Commission) was tueprincipal guest at ;a dinner given at the Troeadero toy the African: Society, and' : in replv to his health, proposed by Sir ! Harry H. Johnston, 'vho presided, he in>~ | cidentally mentioned that on seferal occasions parties of the Uganda Constabu- } lary joined' the Commission, while the | African soldiers who acted as an escort, i were accompanied by their wivos and families. The wives were useful on an expedition, as they -worked for the soldiers, washed their clothing, and carried some of their Belongings. If permitted, the families fed their parents on the fat of the land' 'by stealing from the natives they could lay their hands on. The number of wives "per rifle" had to be limited, owing-to the difficulty of procuring sufficient supplies of food ; , hut the" captain was allowed three, and' they worried his life out. FASHION* BREVITIES. Some new hats have embroidered velvet crowns.

Other crowns are a mass of tulle. Cactus red is one of the most striking] new col'irs. Linens for the coming season are soft, heavy aad pliable. Besides ribbons of gold and silver, very attractive ones in copper bind up the .hair. Many of the new short coats are made to fit loosely and hang in straight lines. Square and oblong buckles of gathered silk are an established trimming for smart gowns. White Swiss muslin for blouses and dresses .show line colored dots. The newest form of the long chiffon scarf show one line chiU'on posed over another of different coloring. Ashes or roses, coral, and what is known as boi de rose are three of the favorite pink shades this season. The puff on a sleeve may be in almost any position to be smart, but a favorite placing is when the sleeve presents the puff at the back, it coming out full over the elbow, and drooping slightly over a deep cuff.