WOMAN'S WORLD.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LII, Issue 178, 20 August 1909, Page 1

WOMAN'S WORLD.

LONDON FASHION NOTES. A NOVELTY. London, July 2. Already, before we lmve had more than three days of summer, the summer, , sales are the excitement of the hour. ■ Goods of light and cool texture have to be got rid of, consequently snappers are in their element, and they are making purchases in the hope that the next few weeks will be blessed by a heat wave The period is all very well fer shopping visitors, but it is not one prolific from the point of view of "copy." vVe shall presently be told what we are to have in the coming autumn, but we do wis i to have f little summer before then. Parasols are totally at a discount, and losses on tlifim must be considerable, but umbrella-makers and sellers are having a harvest, sio are makers and vendors of waterproofs and goloshes. But these are hardly attractive features, or customary features, of June or September attire.

There is a new coat which is rather a wonderful garment, for it opens anu buttons under the arm and is sleeveless; the mere novelty of it commends me coat to those who like something fresh pretty frequently. At present it is made ia fine silky Shantung, with handsome braiding all round the outlines, and especially down the sides, where the buttons and buttonholes are to be lound Dressmakers and tailors do more than toy with the "sleeves-and-bodiee-in-one" arrangement. Sleeves and back and front in one piece, so that the whole bodice consists of but two pieces, indicates the plan adopted, not only in some new cloth costumes, but also in threequarter coats, the skirt portion in the latter case being separately added. There is good reason to suppose Mat this particuar fancy will find a numbeof adherents. Good cut and good cloth, are indispensable features of the scheme. LATEST IN SKIRTS.

Panniers and semi-pannieis of all aorta, hip-trimming, hip-draping, and hip-swathing of all kinds— such are to be the leading motives in the dress development during the second half of the year. The late models from Vienna and Paris already turned out lend strong support to the prophecy; sumo people expect that the long-foretold return to the polonaise pure uuQ simple will not be long delayed. However, the waist has now reached its proper position—and that is a comfort—but one does not wish to see a return of the pinched-in effect, as seems to be indicated by certain new styles. Although the outline of the figure at present is compact, some sort of trimming or folds of material round the hips is characteristic of many of the late dresses. At the Fair of Fashions which has been in progress this week, one of the Redfern dresses had a skirt set in deep kilts, with a broad sasn loided round the hips and knotted behind, to fall in two ends to the edge of the skirt; the bodice was almost unnaturally long in the waist, and extremely tight-fit-ting; it looked as if it had been built upon tile lay-figure. Its sleeves were tight, though rucked, and they were of elbow length. Sparsely-draped pannier tunics are to be seen, with narrow plastron in the middle of the skirt, al! tucks and embroidery. Ever so many dresses in thin materials are made en Prineesse so far as bodice and waist are concerned; round about the knees the fulness begins, introduced ill some sort of swathed draping, which is tied in a bow at the back of the skirt midway between knees and ankle; the whole of the back is entirely plain from the neck all the Way down to the ankle drapery; the dress generally looks too well fitted fo v the wearer to be able to sit down with any comfort.

THAT "TOUCH" OF BLACK. The black satin waistcoat is a feature f tile up-to-date dress. It forms bell, and waistcoat in one, and is noticeab!-' as an adjunct of dresses of painted muslin silk, voile, or other light materials. The deep note of black shows up the delicate tints to uonsiderable advantage.

At times it is repeated round the hem of the skirt, as in the case of a creamtinted silk cashmere with gold and oxidised embroideries in long lines; here the black satin waistcoat was partly hidden 011 the chest by a band of cashmere covered with the embroidery and carried across the front under the small black satin lapels of the waistcoat. Again, a black scarf is chosen to go with a ligtit and dainty gown, but care must be taken that the black does not form itself into close and heavy folds. There are scarves of black gauze which are lightened by an embroidery in oxidised silver in a slender line along the edges. There are, of course, numerous scarves which arc not black—each week their variety seems to extend. Black velvet llowers are asked for, and are willingly supplied by the milliner, who will arrange them on a hat of white, perhaps in conjunction with a white blossom here and there. In direct contrast to the black velvet, lilies and irids

are the llowers made of spotted and plain muslin; these are generally of| white, though some of them are faintly tinted pink or yellow. Huge leghorn hats are favourite subjects for the display of black velvet llowers, nil of immense size. Without a "touch" ot black the dressmaker, the milliner, and the tailor would be at a sad loss. Black velvet ribbon, so long worn clasping the neck, now forms bracelets pinned with a small brooch in the old fashioned way —if the brooch be antique, so much the tetter. A length of tulle in white or colours is worn by the girl who goes in for the picturesque; she ties it closely round her wrist with long ends falling from a tight little bow. Al- - bracelet idea is a circle of lloweiw such as forget-me-nots or button-roses; these are worn over the sleeve if a long-sleeved dress is worn, or over the gloves if the toilette is for the evening. FASHIONABLE TUNICS.

Fit wearing over plain satin gowns i" almost nnv colour, the long tunics in net and chiffon are liked, while tlw beautiful embroideries which adorn so many of them help to render them, doubly attractive, also doubly costly. Host useful is the tunic of ivory-white, perhaps in marquisette, for it can be worn over silk or sfttiu gowns in uuy colour as occasion demands. To border the tunic in front there may bo a very deep fringe in pearls and silver, witn plaques in mother of pearl, connected by chrystal chains, and long silver tassels. The tunic may be draped at t.ic side and lightly knotted, and the short tleeves would be draped to correspond. At the waist there are introduced some line gathers, and the bodice is turned back with narrow revere of black sat : n.