MOUNT EGMONT.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LII, Issue 108, 3 June 1909, Page 4

MOUNT EGMONT.

This celebrated mountain, now known ■bv Hie natives as Taranaki, has had various names. The natives first called it l'ukehaupupa, then l'likconaki, and subsequently Taranaki. Captain Cook cave it the present name of Kgniont, and tile l-'remh Captain Marion du Prone in 1T72 added the name Pic tic Mascarin, after Ids shi.p. One may justly think it should be called Taranaki, M the district is now known by that designation far and wide. Formerly the Maoris held the mountain in great reverence, and it was no little undertaking in days gone iby lo attempt the ascent. Very few, indeed, ever wenit to the top. Amongst the younger natives' the climb was rarely ventured on except as paid guides—that V», liefore tracks were made through the large forest that surrounds the mountain. The scarcity of game may, however, have "been the cause of its being seldom ascended. On the western side, at from 3000 ft to 4000 ft elevation, there Is a cave that was used as a Sepulchre for the bones of the ancient chiefs. This' cave has not been used for at least sixty years, and no native i 6 now living who could tell where the place is, or even find it from their forefathers' descrip- • tion. In the gorges of Oka'hu, during the raids of the waikatos', the Maoris had hiding-places, and on one of the spurs evidences still remain of old whares and food-sitoragc pits. The mountain, rising, cone-shaped, to a height of 8200 ft, is wholly of volcanic character, showing on all sides the vast power of volcanic action. There arc cliffs of from 200 ft to 300 ft high, of hard perpendicular rock strata (/ the general slope of the lower ridge being 12 to 10 degrees; these are evident]y (lows of lava. In other parts there are high cliffs of apparently crushed-tip stone conglomerated together without any regularity; these seem to lie loose scoria thrown but from the crater and subsequently consolidated. The general contour of the mountain is so regular that it leads to the ibefief that the eruptions were gradual and not unduly violent, the hard rock cooling as the cone was thrown up forming, if this theory is correct, the numerous ravines. The area within the broken edge* of thes ummit of whit 'may be termed the crater u about fifteen acres in extent,and is covered with ■perpetual snow; the h ules are of many shapes canst-d by -winter ice action and the many changes of temperature during the different .seasons of the year. The crater Panetahi, or Fanthnm's Peak, on the south side, elevation 0438 ft, has a much more even appearance, giving the impression that it had cooled much more slowly. On the west s ide of the mountain tire form leads one to suppose that there was' a vent at one time in its volcanic creation. Again, on the south side, between Panetahi and the cliffs that run out from "Bob's Bluff," there are signs of another vent; the more rounded mounds, of ''The Bee'hives,'' Hastie's Hill, Te Umu-tao-taiauawa (Sinclair's Table), with others at about the same level, point to the supposition that there were possibly other outlet* for the heat during the activity of the volcano, whilst from the

appearance of the different layers of pumice and earth one would imagine 'that three comparatively recent eruptions had occurred. The forest that now covers the base of the mountain has evidently grown Since the eruptions, otherwise it is reasonable to assume that large quantities of charred timber would be found. To those making a study of volcanoes and their phenomena much matter of interest can l>e found on Mount Egmont; in fact, the region teems with interest. Scoria and lava are found all over the cone; on the summit a substance of a sulphurous character is obtained, and at the source of the Kapuni river it is supposed that sulphur at times is brought out by the water. ' The flora of the mountain is of great variety. l"p to -2500 ft it is of ordinary forest characteristic of Tavanaki, viz., pines, rata, tmvai, himm. kotiikntiiku. birch, etc., with thick undergrowth! Some fine specimens of pine and rata are obtainable on ittie lower levels, though, not in large patches, making :t at any time expensive to take out, should it ever be permitted, rt is to be hoped that this will always be prevented, as the present forest, onee-dcstroycil. would take centuries to replace. The forest as the elevation increases becomes lighter, gradually changing into scrub, the latter running out at a height of 4000 ft, though in some of the sheltered gullies the timber and serub is found growing a few -hundred feet higher. 'Ferns of the rarest varieties grow in abundance in the wood-chid portion of the reservation, whilst on the western side can be seen the .branching toi -n great luxuriance. Al>ove the scrub eomes the moss zone, wlifrli runs out at an elevation of 54110 ft, whilst a small ieeplant at a somewhat higher level can be seen struggling among the loose ami ever-moving scoria. In ,the spring and early summer, mountain wild flowers appear in great beauty and profusion, that to be seen and studied would be a pleasure to many a visitor and deeply interesting to botanists. Uokiii" c-liicflv to the question of vegetation "on the higher slopes, one is forced to the conclusion that as' the rocks, disintegrate and .form soil, certain species of vegetation will creep towards the summit of the mountain. In evidence of this plants can be seen fighting for existence in sheltered spots and in aiiv locality ■where there is soil to support'life, even close to the top. In the Reserve birds' are not plentiful. I igeons «nd .tiiis are found only nil the lower levels, where their food-supply is. The thrush and the blackbird are li'vin« on the higher levels, (feeding on the smaller berries. These bird* •«,„ be found close to the edge, of the scrub, and in the open a few pheasants live on tie mossy slopes. In the early wilier bird lit,. , B plentiful on the higher levels Hi search of late berries "lid cattle are fairly plentiful on the soutl. and west ,ides, and have acquired a Habit of barking the lioiihou trees. They have travelled as high as 0000 ft on the west side, evidently in (he vain endeavor to cross a ravine, and at an elevation of 5000 ft they <eem to liTe to roam about. There fc evidence of several being caught in the winter storms heir carcases having been found under sheltered rocks.

I" the streams .felt sre scarce A variety is found il( the lower water levels. J'i,s>il,|v the food t ;« ,^>«l'.utrt.qui,.kl.vl,vtiu.fr < ~i ; ,,.„t -lonnj that little is left to feci on. am IH * « matter for consideration "he her the-Hroams within the Itesono can he snocessfuHy nU ,, kod lvi(| , im ;

on the donate of the whol, district is ><ry ."'"""I. T1,,. peak., risi,,, up from of'"'",' Tooot"'" 1 ' f " ' «"»"»1 Icvol "f/'*"" lmh to mult from the w, attracts ; t,„. ,h„nU to the lii-h ,a N thus break,,,., the eurrents of air U an ill,stratum of this, when a „orti,er!v "',""' ■'" l""ilicted and prevalent el,se- : vhe,-e o„ atriliinj{ „„. f ;.„/"': Mv """ «'e>tward by the enrunt: „t a,r eoncentralin- from Cook Mro. he wind, fro,,, t'ook Strait in « »'«» l.ii manner are split up ,|, v die , o ol ,'n , "'"' ,>s '" """"''• •■""-••I. 1 ~0l» l ' .v as a result „f tMs l|l( . k mo!" l""f"'' iU " "" rro "e h'« ,v -n '"' l ' -'"'"'•'-and in erne o :,• i "" al " l(Kl ""'K l '' i»H»uu , I netly over Jlt least three pirls «» Lianaki. JVrpetiml siimv is < „,| v '"Ms iij, the cone f,„. Wlm!i . , tu P "t -.■«■«! months „f „, " "" On the w,,t ~idc urt|l • ■•; «eeni the I'ouakai run..,, and -T . V. . )»ve,s. ,o„,e of t|,, ,„,,,, ,„■ „ ' ; {"■'■•"•'lt an extrao,,li„ iln . „',.',' o ordinary s.orins.The^re;:!,', I '.'!'..', I ''" r,m "'l "I'' mountain for „,,„,, ,■..',! l»-..-tl„„l B of the area of the 11-.,,- ■■■'. ' r*™.* '"""luif and p, ;„l C'W|.«ral.,o„, while the .winter snow u-e nm-HM ~| „,a,|,,ally duri,,., ,h, war r pa, t or the year. In niakinj.,siich a lar-e reserv.tion ,i six n;lffl radhis f m „, „„. . ; , ' Mount Krmout-a,, . u . tllal ,„.,,,""-.; ,% «.«!, Trhiici,, t„., t . tll{ll . with'(!,,■;■;;.-

other blocks uoeesriuvj" to include the forest-clad Pnlua range of 0540 acres, total nc-res —it 'was recognised as ii national matter t'o endeavor to keep climatic conditions equable, and the farseeing wisdom of the scheme, cannot be well gainsaid. A trip to .the mountain is now one of the recognised attractions of the colony to visitors frum the outside world. At present 'four routes are uttered to the intending visitor. The. first ascent made by anyone except Maoris was that by Dr. DielVenhacli, the naturalist of the New Zealand Company, who was accompanied liv a man named Hebberlcy. This was its far back as Christmas, 184 U. The partv followed the valley of the Waiwaka'iho, ami thence up a spur to tins ,'nnirait. The route was a very dilhcult one, but in those days, with no tracks, no other was available. The Provincial Government of laranoki, about the year 1875-78, spent a considerable sum in ranking a bridletrack over the ranges to the swamp between the Pouakai ranges and the mountain. This track was via the Mangorei road, a clearing being made at a suitable spot, a-bout 800 ft from the ton of the ranges', for horses and a canipinUrround, There was also another camping-ground at Holly Flat, below Sinclair's Tables, on the south side ot 'the swamp, and for years this was the usual track to the mountain, lhc ascent was a hard one, the trip taking several days, though the scenery mas magnificent. . hi 1846 the lata Sir I'. Dillon Bell am Mr. Wellington Carrington ascended Mount Egniont via the Patua ranges', and discovered the falls which bear the name of the former. The lute Mr. Dawson, a postmaster at Manaia, did a great deal of eariv exploring, and discovered the falls, subsequently named after him, about 1880. The present Egniont track was made about 1890, and is a continuation, of the Egmont road. Then follows the Stratford track, via the Pembroke road, which -was cut out and due to the energy of Messrs. Curtis and Pcnn.of that town. 'Later on, the south track, via Dawson's Kails, was located bv the residents of Manaia and the surrounding district. The Surrey road trackwas Vut out in the first instance l>y Mr. Speck and his sons. The Kahotu track, via Kahui road, of recent date, is now finished. Prom that side the cany settlers' followed up Stony river to a spur, and on that way to the summit. An additional track has now been cut, running up the bunks of the Stony -river from Okato to Bell's Palls and the new accommodation-house, 14 miles. These, make in all seven tracks to the mountain. On each considerable sums of monc'v have Jieen spent, and on four of the 'tracks houses' .have been built, and, provided ordinary care is taken, the mountain can 'be ascended from any side now: .without serious difficulty. Taking the routes geographically, they arc as follow: THE EGMONT KOI'TK FKOM NEW

FTA'MOITH. This is a good driving road, l'J'/i miles to tire Moiminiu House, metalled, and so well graded that motor-cars find no diiliculty in reaehing the .house, 3200 ft above sea-level. The house is ! u touch also with Tnglewood by a good metalled road, 12 miles. From the Mountain House, there is a walking traek to the summit, taking from throe to five hours to negotiate. From the house, the first mile and a-quarter is through bush and scrub, then moss, and on to the bare rock and scoria, presenting no serious' diflfculty till the summit Is reached. The scenery, on this line -is of an ever-changing nature. The fine gorge of Xgatoro near the lionise, with the forest on each side of it; then the isolated rock*'tailed Humphries' Castle; further oil', the ranges of Pouakai; and when once on the moss, diversions can be made with ease to both sides of the mountain to view lire line old lava gorges'and the many high clilis of solid rock. At most seasons of the year, in the sheltered gulches', ice is obtainable on this route. The gorge} of the Waiwakaiho is a favorite detour, and trips can be extended in other directions to the Stratford and Falls Houses, occupying respectively 'three and four hours "to travel. ROUTE FROM STRATFORD VIA THE PEMBROKE ROAD.

This is ti good metalled r oad for 10 miles, and then to the h'ouse, a distance of two and a-lialf miles further on, it is formed and available for wheel traffic in slimmer. From the house, horses can

he taken for another two miles and aha'lf to. an elevation of 5200 ft, though the last 1000 ft of this distance as very steep. Fran Stratford House excursions can be made by formed tracks lo the Mangauui gorge ami down the Kammi to the Falls House, also on to 'the Egmont House. A beautiful waterfall on Mangauui river and one on YYaingongoro river are especially attractive side features of this route. The ascent to the summit of the mountain 'will take from three to live hours from the house.

the last part near the top .being very steep. From the railway staton jit Stratford .to the .hou.se the Journey can be accomplished in three hours, or the entire trip to the summit can be dci'i" in say, seven hours, although-it has often occupied a much h'*s time to travel. ROUTE VIA THE MAX.-UA OR EI/THAM ROADS.

To the. Falls' 'House, at an elevation of 3070 ft, the road is a good -metalled one to within one and a-half miles of the Dawson's Falls Hostelry. From the Falls House to the summit, the track is via Panetahi l'eak (Fanlhaiu's Peak), and itakes from four to six hours from the house. Should the tourist not wish to make tire, whole ascent, a magnificent view can be had from Panetahi. at an elevation of 0438 ft. From the house, which occupies a picturesque and sheltered position, with .plenty of wood and water handy, also bathing aeeuinniqd.ition, many excursions can be taken, the first of importance .being that to Dawson's Falls, near at |,and: next the Cascades, on the Kapuni. Mastic's Hill; and by following up the mountain track (o the moss line, skirting around I'anetahi. and descending to Ijiike Dive, is another trip that will require three, hours each way. The scenery, however, to Lake Dive is very beautiful; the wild gorge of Punchii mid the abrupt dill's of Hob's UlulF well repay the exertions of the tourist.

' XEW UorTIOFIiOM RAHOTU. Duo'west of the mountain, and fhirlv miles from Xew Plymouth, is the Irni-ic via tin' Kalmi, lu-liii-h' i* a-jsood road to the radius line. ,H-y, mi],.,,. y rmn tl|c radius lino to the moss line 4 1 /, miles, is only a roufrhlv-formod r ««nl. the work of uiioiiiiif! this out for a road was started, hut o«in- t „ short hiss „.f Uimk is still iiii-.oniiilete. A small olearin>, has boon felled lor a paddock, and a rniifrli hoiu-e ereeted. The .scenery on this track i- in many rcsp,.,-ts dillerent from the others; it ■emlmices the lonjr mnssv slopes at life head wntois of the Stonv Hives, the I'ouakai Kan-os. the florae o'f Okahu with its lnVh elilfs. this latter hem- one of the ilimsl views of the mountain, -which ean lie ea»il v explored from the track. 1,, addition to this trips' ean H.e taken to HelPs and Dawson s 1-nl.s. involving three hours' walk, however to each. !(„(. they are well worth the exertion.

There „,,. nth,.,. lv alkin. tracks tlir.mj.,l. the liesevve. as the radius line is lappeil all round m-itli roads leadin" | ( " 'l.'ll'crent parts of tile siirroumlinf, distiK-l. !•',„„, ~.K . |, r „ ;l ,| t,.,.,,,!,,.,, ~ ira.-k "I h«;al interest, and „s'c,l l,y settlers and others as occaision reipiires. the houses :|,uilt at Kjrmont'. .Stratlord, and Kalis (Manaia roult.) tracks Have Minple aceonimodation. viz., ,hunks mattresses. ( ;l l,|„. .„„, ~„„,.,, „,,,„„;,' provided at a nominal diar-e From "•'c her to April a caretaker who also I''''* ff'l'l''. I" k-l'l « l»|'l.v ll'"wood ■'«< l «■ ter for tl„. vi,,il.,r-s. ami also to Keep tile ionises <l«; t |l and in m,od order |„. Xoi . th K ,, mmi iiw J avallade to settlers all the year round. • U ''-fii' I and Fall,. ,„tta„es „re al>o provided „L moderate rentals for visitors d,-.,',i„- ~,. ~ ,„. iv . u . v f 11 Iselves' and thHr families '|f „, "•ished meaU can he .u,,,,:!,,, ,„ vi>n . »rs ,-,l reasonable „:,|es. ihus ~„.;„„ 11 Hi" trouble of ibriiu'ii,., I heir own |"ov:.dons'. t-lt-. ISlatiki-ts" however are not provided. 5p,.,.-ial i„„ m s a , ( , „., apart for ladies.

'''>'.<• '<"■ "f I'"- nioiiiii,,i„ is ,•!,,„■ nn,l lir.-ifiiisr. Im>i- chest cniimlainU' «rcat ''•"l'«-f is 50,,,, fell; vUn.v.i.ftw „"<<.»• <l;«y« ,-0,.„, t„ |,,,vc l,clii„,l i 1,,.,,, tlioir 'Us. 11111 l It :l.ll(. tlcc,lil||>„o,lalioil ~.„,] ••10,1ns of access were improve,! it IV oul,l iloiil.tless heenme „ lieallh rcort for iliiiiiy. ivlio do not t.ike a.1v.mt,,..,. of it

Un this account. The visitors to the mountain from all sides for the lust season must have reached 0000 or over, as the visitors' book at the North and South Houses combined show a. total of uvc r 5000. The management of what is now known as ,the Egmont National Park was formerly under four district committees, -wiili the Commissioner of Crown Land's a member of each. These committees attended to the local wants falling within their particular sphere. The 'fees and su'bATip-tions collected, supplemented by C.overnmciit subsidies, have been expended to the very best advantage in making tracks, providing rough accommodation for visitors, and paddockiug accommodation for horses. With tin- limited means at their disposal, no doubt these committees, who were really the pioneers of the Egmont Domain, have dune wonders -in the past. The great trouble, however, has been the continued shortness of adequate funds. The individual houses up to now having a purely local interest, us much as possible was spent on each. The tracks ha-ve advanced to such a stage, and the time probably has come when, to cope with present Uud future require- ( incuts, one thoroughly equipped central house is needed in order to attract the general tourist, where all hotel conveniences can ibe procured, so that invalids and all classes of visitors can be accommodated, and that with a minimum amount of inconvenience and personal discomfort. This would tempt not only the young and robust, but also the class of tourist wiro will be qiute content to get to air elevation of oUUU feet, breathe the pure, invigorating air, enjoy the magnificent view, and roam about at sweet will on the beautiful slopes, without ever, perhaps, .btiiuking of going to the summit. People as a rule like to get to the base of their operations with comfort, however much roughing they may feel inclined -voluntarily to undertake afterwards.

The question will at once arise, Which is the best road, and tile best position for such a -building? Each of the houses has attractions in themselves, -but by having a good walking or ibridle trad? from one ,to the other, much of the difficulty of selection is being overcome. As the main li-ouse will be a re»<ort for health purposes, 'the site should be chosen with the most genial aspect, at the same time offering) sufficient inducements -for the-more hardy travellers taking excursions from it. Jf this view is given ell'ect to, much, will have to be considered, and the advantages of each centre carefuly weighed before a final decision fe arrived at. Natural conditions give the noi'itln side an advantage. At present -it is felt that more concentration is necessary for the developing of Egniont as a favorite tourist resort, and -that local .sentiment will have to give, place largely to the advantages gained iby attracting visitors from other parts of the colony", and. of the outside world, lo what is probably the easiestclimbed mountain of its altitude in any part of the southern hemisphere, anil one tliat can be reached in a few hours from so many of our leading centres of population. The management of -the Park since February, liiol. was by a Board elected by the contiguous local bodies under "Tin- Egmont National Park Act, 1000," with .two nominated members by the Government, the Commissioner of Crown Lands .for the time being (as'chairman) —in all ten members. Sub-committees are appointed to manage ail local matters and carry out improvements, all, however, -being subject to the control of the general Board. Native and imported game is absolutely protected within the Domain, as well ( as the native flora and fauna.

The tracks connecting the various houses have now been practically eo-n----'pletedisulliciently to make walkingeasv, the dotal distance from the Dawson's' Falls house to the Kahui house being some 14 or lo miles, and as the ease with which the trip from one house to the other can be made becomes better known these walks round the mountain

will .become increasingly popular. The distance from the North house to either DawsOn's Falls hous'e or Bell's Fulls, is about li'/a miles, and the time required by an average party would be about three hours each ;\vu}\ Further im-

provements are being'made each year mid at Dawson's Falls those -who do not care for the more primitive accommodation previously in vogue can now have really comfortable quarters. At the North Ihouse, also, visitors need not take either provisions or 'beddiii". as the* can be obtained, especially if notice is previously.scut of (lie projected visit From New Plymouth to the North house the means of communication will s'hortly be quite up-to-date. iW arrangementis have now been made for extendnig the telephone, and before the opening of next season such mean? of communication will .be an accomplished fact