WHERE FASHIONS ARE BORN.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LII, Issue 81, 1 May 1909, Page 4

WHERE FASHIONS ARE BORN.

ART AND COMEDY OF THE PARIS SALEROOMS. AUTOCRATS OF STYLE. Paris, March 8. Every feminine eye in England, blue, brown, or black, is turned across the streak of grey water to this gay city whore fashions are born. Paris at this moment is the most interesting place on earth. We scan in perplexity the multitude of styles which surround us, and wonder what the sartorial autocrats—the great dressmaking experts in the Rue de la Paix—are going to decide.

We have skirts slender, and skirts which aim at an increased fulness. AYe fondly view the slim proportions of the Directoiro blouse, and wonder if on the morrow our sleeves will ruffle themselves into more ungainly outlines. In the dressmaking establishments themselves a delightful mimic warfare is in progress. Rival queens reign in kingdoms of chiffon, and there is the keenest .fight between houses to buy out those whose genius spells success lo the firm.. These queens or the workroom are each gifted -with a particular talent. There is the chief fitter, who is worth her weight in gold, but even more important for the financial success and credit of a firm is the chief saleswoman. The saleswoman must be a model of all the virtues. She must possess infinile tact, unwearying patience, and a glib tongue. Her chief object is to place the most beautiful gowns on the most graceful customers. Woe betide the saleswoman who dispones of one of the works of art lo some inelegant client "pas chic."

PREDESTINED DRESSES. Nothing is more amusing than to watch the little comediettas acted every day in the salons of the elite or the Parisian dressmakers. The slended mannequins glide in over polished floors -wearing the latest creations. The saleswoman has already arranged the fate of tile dresses. All the treasures of her ■woman's wit and diplomacy are called into play lo prevent a rich but unfashionable customer securing her one ewe lamb. "C'ertainement; charmed to receive Mudame's orders, but has Madame noticed the widening effect of the lines. Madame should he made (o lorfl; slender, to have the waist line placed at another , angle. This other dress is far more suitled lo Madamo's typ c of figure."

iladamc is as wax in the hands of the really expert saleswoman. The client departs quite content, and the most beautiful of the models goes to somebody else who can launch it into life under more favorable auspices, For there are sonic supremely smart women in Van's who hold the sceptre ol fashion. If they adopt a model i( s success is assured at once. They ca-a make or mar the lirms they deal with. Another wile of the clever saleswoman is to send out little battalions of her prettiest mannequins to the races, to the liois, or the Champs Klysees. or on Sunday morning to take a turn in the "Sentier de la Vertu." They are garbed in Hie latest creations of the house they represent, and arc the admiration of the crowd.

The small dressmakers are always n-,i

the alert for the appearance of these mannequins, and, peeping under tin brims of their hats, they take copious notes, while appearing to be indifferent passers-by. Fashions arc chiefly bum on the stage. A wonderful gown by a sartorial potentate will create a profound impression owing not only to its beauty, but to the fact that it is worn by a favorite actress. At the Salon on varnishing-day, at the "premiere" of a play by some well-known writer, or at a smart wedding, a. new style may appear and take a firm grip on the public or run -a hvici and riotous career.—London Express.