VISIT TO THE TASHI LAMA.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume L, Issue 61, 2 November 1907, Page 3

VISIT TO THE TASHI LAMA.

SVEN HEDEN'S JOURNEY. Tubdcn Tjoki Nirna Gelo Mamdja, to give his full name, ia the sixth Tashi Lama of Thibet, and is at present the holiest person in the whole lama world. He lives at Tashi-Lhumpo, a great monastery near Shigatse, on the Brahmaputra, the second city in Thibet, and the most sacred in the world of Buddhism. 'Prior to the British invasion of Thibet, in 1904, the Dalai Lama of Lhassa was the supreme ruler, but liefore the invaders entered the capital lie escaped and lied to China. In September, 1004, he was deposed by the Chinese Emperor, who conferred his spiritual dignities on the Tashi Lama. A very interesting account of his visit to this important personage is given in Harper's Magazine for July by Sven Heden,, the famous Swedish explorer and traveller in Central Asia.

Sven Hedin arrived at Shigatse in the evening, and was visited by one of the Tashi Lama's officials, who said he had come on his own initiative to ask for information as to his name, nationality, caravan, place of destination, etc. He took down everything in writing, but was never seen again. The Chinese mandarin and representative at Shigatse, Colonel Ma, called on the traveller. He is a stout old fellow, who was kind and polite, but angry because the Tashi Lama had not honored him even with an answer, although it was four days since he had asked for an audience. On the next day was the new year festival, which Sven Hedin wished to see, but to which he could hardly go without permission, especially as the Tashi Lama was to be present at the games. At half-past six o'clock in the morning—a curious hour for a call—the Tashi Lama's chief Munshi, Lobsang Tsering, and a young Chinese official called to see him. They were very polite and kind, but said a European could not be allowed to attend the games, which were intended only for the inhabitants of the country, and that the honor of being in the presence of the Holy Lama was granted to very few mortals. After a good deal of talk it occurred to the traveller to show them the Chinese passport, which had been procured for him by the Swedish Minister in London. It was made out for Eastern Turkestan only, but they were delighted with it, and said that it was a very fine passport, and showed that he had come under Chinese protection. It made everything right, and Hedcn was welcomed to the games. He was told to dress as nicely as possible, so he put on his evening dress and orders, as well as an ulster and cashmere boots. He was accompanied to the games by Loksang Tsering, Tsatsertkan, a young Chinese official from the Vatican, and another high lama, all of whom visited India with the Tashi Lama about a year previously. He was placed in a balcony opposite to the box in which the holiest of all holy men would sit, and had a splendid view of the games and of the brilliantly-col-ored sea of human beings. After a while the Tashi Lama arrived, wearing a tall yellow mitre and yellow gold embroidered silk robes, and took his seat, cross-legged, behind a yellow curtain, with long silk fringes. It was a wonderful spectacle. "It seems," writes Hedin, "as if we have before us the whole Buddhistic world—concave of venerable cardinals." The vast assembly was carried away by veneration for the holy man. The copper cymbals are now ringing again, and a choir of magnificent men's voices, now rising, now falling, is singing a hymn. The singers cannot be seen, but the song carries one away with fascination, and soon it dies away. "During the three house which the game lasted," says the writer, "Tashi Lama spent at least half tha time in peeping at me. I often caught his glance, but the distance was too great to enable me to see his features." Refreshments were served during the whole time, and at each fresh serving an elderly lama said: "Pantjen Rimpotje (Tashi Lama) hopes you will make yourself at home."

Next morning Sven Hcdin paid a visit to the great man, who was dressed as an ordinary lama, in red garments. "He nods to me kindly, and gives me both his hands, asking me to sit down in an easy chair, close to him." He expressed his regret at the bad reception the visitor had met with, the reason being that he had come so quietly, and nobody knew that he was the right person to be expected. He asked about Sweden and the other countries of Europe, the kings and emperors, concerning whom he was greatly interested; Japan, and the war with Russia; and India. He wished to be remembered to Lord Sahib (Earl of Jlinto), and said that he should never forget his hospitality. ''Don't forget it," he said; "promise me that you will write to him, and say that I am often, often thinking of him. Remember me also to Lord Kitchener." The traveller asked for his photograph, and the holy promised to M him take it if he were allowed to photograph Sven Hcdin. The Tashi Lama showed his camera, and said that a lama was doing the developing in another room. The Swede asked for permission to see tho whole of Tashi-Lbumpo, and sketch and photograph there. "Yes, with pleasure," was the reply. "I have already given instructions to the lamas, who will show you everything." There were no difficulties, "and all this in Thibet!" is the visitor's comment.

lUis remarkable man, so unlike all our conceptions ol Thibetans derived from Llwssa, greatly all'ected tlw Swedish explorer. "Strange alid never-to-be-forgotten Tashi Lauia!" he exclaims. "1 biiall always remember liim. He is just twenty-live years old. lie himself is leading a simple life, and sits iu liis recess by the window, and listens to tie whistling of the wind, and looks out over the valley. Never has any person made such a deep and lasting impression upon me —not as a god in human form, but as a human being of godly purity, chastity, and perfection. One never forgets his glance, and 1 have never seen sucli a smile, such a linely-cut mouth, such a noble face, full of goodness and charity. Whosoever he may be, he is an extraordinary and exceptional man—so gentle, so rclined, so noble. His siniie never left him, and every time our glances me he nodded so kindly, as if he would say, 'Be convinced I am your best friend.' That smile I shall always remember as long as I live, as the most wonderful I have sceij All my impressions of Thibet and Brahamaputra are nothing compared with it." They had tea together, and the Tashi Lama always drank at the same time as his visitor, so as to show that lie was not too holy to descend to his level. He evidently liked the explorer, for when the visit had lasted two hours, and Heding made a .sign that he intended to get up, he said: "Oh, no; you must stay a little longer." This was repeated unl.il he had been there three hours. "To begin with, both of us were somewhat shy, but that passed off, and we became the best of friends. We were much fascinated with each other." At last he called for some lamas, and ordered them to show the traveller all that he had coine to see. "lie then gave me both his hands again, and shook mine, nodding his head, while his delightful smile was playing on his lips, and I retired backwards. His glances followed me with a smile, and he was waving his hand to me the whole time, till X disappeared through the door leading out to the ante-room." Refreshments were offered, and a lama came with greetings from the Tashi Lama, and expressions of hope that the visitor would not get tirod by walking too much. Sven ITedin had another interview, which lasted two hours and -half, at which he photographed the Tashi Lama, who took two snapshots of liini. lie was as charming and amiable as before. The explorer's concluding words are: "One of my richer! and dearest memories in nil my life is Tashi Lama—this remarkable and noble personality."