THROUGH THE BACKBLOCKS

Taranaki Daily News, Volume L, Issue 59, 26 March 1907, Page 3

THROUGH THE BACKBLOCKS

TtlE TAHAXAKI IUXTKULAXD. A TJill' OX IIOIISEIUCK. On the gloriously line afternoon o Thursday, March 7, Oiie of Xew Ply mouths residents, unaccompanied savi by his staunch little steed whose duty il was to carry his master, set out on tour of the Taranaki back country, that terra incognita of the townsman., the home of score-, of resolute and scores ut despairing settlers, the theme of the gram-hunting, vote-catching politician, and the favorite haunt of the man who loves Nature in her purity, who loves to drink in deep draughts of the rural air that frees the brain and invigorates ihe system. Civilisation could noi be shaken oil in an instant, or in an hour, and there was alwa\> something to remind the traveller th.it the destroyer, man, had set his mark ou the forest primeval. But, excepting the road 011 which he travels, ilu» wanderer in the wilderness may journey in our Taranaki back country through Nature's own handiwork, : -uper!dy beautiful, untouched by the spoilator's a\e. But not imenulialely tm leaving the streets of Xew Plymouth does this appear, first there is the undulating country, dotted with Mailing between Xew Plymouth, Waiutra and I'remu. This last-named town was the lir.it haliing-place. It looked yuite bnsv. New Plymouth and Lrenui had been trying conclusions on the cricket field, ami I'renui had struck bad luck—they couldn't keep the wickets standing. Host MrCuinness made tne travellers welcome and comfortable at his well-conducted hostelry. Stuart McUuiuness keeps a .splendid country hotel. The rooms are comfortably furnished, and the larder is well stocked, as proved by the excellent display of edibles at every meal. And he doesn't serve out his liquors inaiscrimiuately to all who can pay, but is man enough to ?av, "You've had your share tonight: conn* in for more to-morrow i f " you like. You get 110 more to-night." And this though there isn't a policeman for miles around! But .3000 or 0000 1 sheep were camped there that night, and | the drovers' four-footed assistants, to the number of twenty-three, were canip:ed in the backyard of the hotel. And 1 by reason of the fact that they enter- , tained one another to their hearts' content there was no sleep until the last staccato note had beeu shrilly barked. The canine concert over, all was silent—for a time. Then some young bloods from the Uruti sports, with their best girls and much noise, took possession of the stage, evidently thinking that as they were not asleep it was ill-mannered of anyone else to slumber. Then all was still. Vremii was left behind about 9 o'clock on Friday morning, and the next was at Pukeanihe. Right along the road the country was a pleasing and prosperous picture. The road was bet ter tlian of yore, and the WJiiteclifiy estate certainly wore a more thriving appearance owing to the subdivision in* to .-smaller holdings, and the consequent increase of homestead buildings, and so forth.

Leaving Pukeanihe procedure was by way of the beach, which was wonderfully good—firm sand and few stones. To got back to the interior tiic old tunnel cut by the armed constabulary in bygone days, had to be negotiated. Entering it, the thoughts travelled back to the time when the only road was i.y way of a steep zig-zag up the elift' just a little to the Pukearuhe side of Rigby's point. It was a perilous track, and many stories are told of strong men refusing to face the task of ascent or de- | scent. Stock had to be brought down by this means, and it is a matter of history that on one occasion a beast took fright and leaped. The rest followed, and scores met their death on the beach below. By now we are in the tunnel, whose passage would have been none the less pleasant had the owner removed the dead lamb, the ellluvia from whose slowly wasting remains seemed almost to block the way. Out of the darkness and tomb-like ring of this unusual road, the eye lights on some splendid pastoral land, formerly occupied by Mr Arthur MeCutcheon, now of Wlwngamomona, but at present in the hands of Mr Gibbs. Travelling on, the Tongapomtu river is reached, and the valley traversed unt ; l the bridge corner into view. Involuntarily the horse is reined in, and the wayfarer watches the waters swirling down across the old ford, where many a time in olden days he had fought his way through the stream, the strong current contesting almost every inch of the way. But let's haste along, through verdant pasture*, to Mrs McKov's, at the MoUau Heads signal station, where a cup oi' tea i-> eagerly swallowed.

The Mokau, more fortunate than the Tongaporulu. is spared the indignity of bridge piles driven in to the hod of the stream, and the settlers have to wrestie with the antiquated ferry service instead. Excellently a* it is conducted, the Mokatt river ferry is one of the dark spot* on the boasted opening up of the country and the supposed Governmental solicitude for the farmer and the back-

blocks settler. Still northwards lies the way and Awakino is reached. Here are two of New Plymouth's commercial men. enjoying a country tour. One, however, numbers amongst his unpleasant recollections that of a few hours in the saddle., and the remainder of his tour will be on wheels. Pleasing mem ories are paramount, however, as they gaily tell of a dozen line speckled beauties landed from the waters in the Mangataki Gorge, one of the colony's grainiest scenic spots. At some places along the-#oad, the condition of fences has aroused some wonderment. They must be awkward and a source of trouble to the conscientious drover, but a positive God-send to the other class, for there are numerous cattle and sheep grazing on the roadsides waiting to be picked up bv\the tirst passing mob. Mr -Toe Corbel t keeps the boarding-house at Awakino, and the warmth of his welcome is only equalled by his great hospilaliy.

New Plymouth is sixty miles behind as a start is made for the interior next morning. Mr Willie Black makes pleasant company as mile after mile is dropped behind, and the eight-mile climb, in which the road rises some 1300 feet is negotiated. Some of the best grazing land seen on the journey was found in this localitv. and the farms of Messrs Matthews. Kliot and Piddell. At Malioenui. a hall was called at Mr Old's, and on again taking the road Mr Percy Ward, a surveyor, was encountered. lie is now engaged in the survey work preparatory to subdividing lands for settlement. Mr Julian, overseer of the

mad* in this district, and a busy man from the extent and nature of the country in which he lias to work, was the next companion, and by his knowledge nf the district and readiness to impart:

information he made the ride more than u-ually interesting. The road lay through the Mangataki Gorge, a place that must be seen before one can form the slightest conception of its magnificent beauty. The torrent below, fern and bush-clad clifl' and hill, and limestone columns that, remind one of ancient castles falling into ruins, make

the picture of infinite cliarni. Passin;; out into the open, Mr Julian took his departure. for lie has an extensive holding just on the otlier side. Soon a lad ! travelling in the same direction chummed up, and pointed out tile places of interest . including Mr Norman Kobison's splendid farm. A pleasant - looking iittle homestead a! Paem-iko, with a nice little garden, trained creepers. and ,forth attracted attention at Paeinako. It was the hoarding-house, kept hy a man whom the voya«j;cur remembered as one of the band of workers who came from the South Maud about thirteen voars ;«'>o to make the road from wakiii'i t.. hieniAo. Taking tin huul under the Improved Farm Settlement condition**, and diligently applying himself to (])■• working of it. h ri is now iu com pa rat ively atlment < ircunist amv--. Paeinako the -topping place I,'or ih.i and il was n wet anil miserable iH'Oidn-/ when the journey was rc-au;i"d iu th" direction of Aria, by way of PioPio. Now th" lypical back-country is reached, although i he Imid is fairly open as far as fir- Mokau river crossing near th? pretty Waiwcra fall-.

It was here that our informant saw his Hint rabbits in New Zealand. They have already reached very numbers, and., apart from their mischief, it was interesting to watch them about. The settlers, as a more practical pastime, have started laying poiH>n for them, but there is a that as many hornes and bullocks as rabbits have fallen victims. The fern - man at the Cpper Mokau ferry is a man who was formerly well known in commerieal circles on the l\asl ( and who occupied a hurl) position. Pul a severe illness left him with his memory impaired. ami be has sought and found a life of comparative solitude away from ti;e madding crowd. Here nature reivk nndisiuVl)' d. The timber is as yet nnfellcd. and the streams ripple along beneaih a wealth of verdant forest. It is Not a. Mtnnd but the twitting I of the or the gentle splash of J thy water over tin v cascades touches the ear, save for ilw sigliing of tlie

breeze in'ilio rustling true-tops. Am. 5 p.m., and ho re the journey ceases tor the day ut the hou*e of Mr Thomas, forjnierly of Nov Plymouth. Aria is in the middle of u lot of line country, chiefly open, and capable of great improvement. The settlers are piercing the centuries' forest growth, nnd homes are being established. There are several families here, wliose children have no educational facilities. An attempt is being made to obtain the use of the. (Government, whare as a school building, and an attendance of fifteen children is promised. This district av«\s, until a few days ago, under the control of tin Taranaki Kdueation Board, but lias nnv.\ owing to the formation of the new Waitomo County, been placed under the Auckland Board. This seems a ronveniIt'iiL and coinfortabie place in which to leave ihe traveller, whose further jour- j neyings will be followed in another ar- I tide. I