SPORTING ENTHUSIASTS LIKE STRETCH FABRICS

Taupo Times, Volume XIV, Issue 70, 7 September 1965, Page 11

SPORTING ENTHUSIASTS LIKE STRETCH FABRICS

(Sporting enthusiasts have * already realised the advantages of the new stretch fabrics. They are ideal for ski-wear, swim- * suits and casual attire. Garments made from these fabrics give full freedom of ■movement with no constriction at such critical areas as elbows, knees, across the shoulders and the hips. They have a streamlined look yet adapt to the shape Of the body as it stoops, reaches .and bends. What's so new about these latest stretch fabrics? After . all the natural fibre rubber

has been used for many years in swimsuits and foundation garments. Admittedly it deteriorates with age and gradually loses its elasticity, but it has been a fairly satisfactory fibre. Spandex, a synthetic elastic fibre, is rapidly replacing rubber in these garments, mainly because it maintains its shape longer and has betten recovery. The garments are light in weight and cool and as they absorb water better they are more comfortable to wear. Some of the new stretch fabrics look just like other

non-stretch fabrics such as poplin, gaberdine and denim. The synthetic fibre spandex is closely wrapped by non-stretch yams. These core - spun fabrics normally have a horizontal stretch and are used extensively for the newer foundation garments, and also for casual sportswear, where comfort is the main concern. Man-made fabrics, such as nylon? can have "stretch" put into them. They are crimped or curled, then heatset to make them permanently elastic. Fabrics made up entirely of these stretch yams have a two-way stretch and are used where snap and power is needed as in ski-wear, swimsuits, athletic clothing and foundation garments. Sometimes the fabric is made with a one - way stretch. Stretch fabrics are now avaiiable in our shops; some are woven and others are knitted. The natnre of the fabric demands some diiferent but not complicated techniques in sewing. The se fabrics are obviously more suited to action garments, sports-wear or casual attire. Check that the fabric you buy has ad-e-quate stretch and is running in the right direction for your purpose. A crosswise stretch is best for skirts and jackets and lengthwise for anchored slacks with the foot strap. Choose a simple pattern with as few seams as possible. This is necessary beeause seams reduce the effectiveness of the stretch. The use of the linings and interfacings defeat the purpose of the stretch fabric, but if there are buttonholes, they will require strengthen-

ing with a little iron on stiffening. Unless you have a table large enough to spread all the materials out for cutting, the floor would be best. The weight of any material hanging over the edge could stretch it. Follow the grain lines carefully when you lay out the pattern to avoid uneven stretch in the finished garment. Use plenty of sharp fine pins, placed at right angles to the stretch and cut out with a sharp pair of scissors. Mark construction details with tailor's tacks, chalk or pins. A traeing wheel could damage some of the fibres. Before machining the garment check the stitch on a scrap of the fabric. The important point when stitching stretch fabrics is to ~ have stitches that will not break when the seam is stretched. Cotton thread is not suitable for these fabrics as it has insufficient "give." Terylene, nylon and silk threads all elongate further before reaching breaking point and would be better for the purpose. Use a fine needle and thread and if possible raise the presser foot slightly to reduce pressure on the fabric as it goes through the machine. Loosen the tension to avoid the seams popping as you stretch them. Some stretch fibres fray easily, so a second row of stitches close to the edge or a zigzag row will help prevent this. When a garment is a firm-fitting one a larger zip will almost certainly be needed. This should be attached by machine for added strength. A bias hem binding is recommended on all hems as this will "give" with the fabric.