GARDENS IN TAUPO

Taupo Times, Volume III, Issue 134, 20 August 1954, Page 8

GARDENS IN TAUPO

WORK FOR THE WEEK

(By

"Flora")

Arbour Day is usually held during the month of August, the last in which we can safely plant trees or shrubs. This day originated in Nebraska, U.S.A*. From there it spread to other states of America and Canada. Our own country was not long in seeing what a great thing this was, to implant in the minds of our citizens, young and old, the need to plant as many trees and shrubs as possible, to help beautify our towns and also the countryside, once so lovely, but decimated by the march of progress. Apart from the functions carried out by local bodies and societies, we should, one and all, hold our individual Arbor Day. Plant each year in your garden at least one shrub or tree, and you will be assisting materially to make your home pleasing to look upon, not only for yourself, but for the world as it passes by your gate. Some will have already sown some spring vegetable seeds, but there is time enough, unless you are using cloches. Nothing will really be gained, as often the later sown seeds will catch up and pass the earlier, and go ahead without check. Before germination takes place a certain soil temperature must be reached. Green crops may now be dug in. It is well to have such matter buried sufhciently early in the season to allow decomposition to occur before the sowing of the next crop. Rose Pruning This should be done as soon as possible. It is rather difficult to describe pruning by words alone. But the followi|ig are a few of the main points to watch. (1) Remove all dead and dying branches. (2) Remove all spindly branches, which would be too weak to bear a good bloom. (3) Remove all branches which, although still alive have borne several crops of blooms and are getting old and horny or discoloured. (4) Remove all misshapen branches. By this time we have considerably reduced the bulk of the plant. Now shorten back the remaining branches, speaking generally from half to one-third the length. But to just above the "eye" pointing preferably outwards. Spray after pruning with either Lime Sulphur, Bordeaux or Cuprox. Red Oil if scale is present. Use of Lime * In last notes we reviewed the merits of organic and artificial manures, but no'mention was made of lime, so perhaps a few words on this subject might be helpful. Lime strictly speaking, is not a manure but a soil improver. It helps to make certain soil constituents available to plants. It aids the growth of useful soil organisms, removes acidity from a wet sour soil and to a certain extent binds together loose sandy soils. Lime should never be dug in, for it washes down into the soil very quickly. But lime must be used with discrimination, as it is required by different i crops in varying quantities. On the majority of New Zealand soils, which are as a rule neutral or slightly acid, lime should not be used in the flower garden, as the majority of ornamental plants require this neutrality. In fact a large number actually resent the presence of lime. These include the azaleas, rhododenrons, camellias, daphnes, boronias and heaths. So, for those who want to lime, it will be best to confine it to the vegetable garden, where most plants are tolerant and some bene-

fit appreciably. For example, the Brassica family, which includes cabbage, .cauliflowers and Brussels sprouts, and the Legumes, peas and beans. Also lettuce, celery and beet. The vegetables that rather resent the presence of lime are potatoes — it is said to encourage scab — parsley and tomatoes.