GARDENS IN TAUPO

Taupo Times, Volume II, Issue 94, 6 November 1953, Page 10

GARDENS IN TAUPO

ON GROWING TOMATOES (By Flora) The tomato, strange as it may seem, is closely related to the potato, both belonging to the chiefly tropieal family of the Solanaceae, to which also belong the tobacco and egg plants. It is represented in our gardens by the Petunia and Salpiglossis. Some members of the family possess poisonous properties as for instance the Deadly Nightshade. In New Zealand it is scantily represented. You may perhaps know the Poro-poro, a small shrub with dark purple flowers, followed by yellowish berries. It is not very long since; the tomato was grown for its ornamental fruit, not to be eaten but merely for decoration. Today it is hard to visualise a summer menu without it. Although a somewhat troublesome plant to grow in Taupo on account of its susceptibility to frost, it is I think well worth planting a dozen or so plants if room allows. A position on a north wall would be ideal. It is late enough, but seeds may still be sown should you wish to grow your own plants. But most gardeners prefer to buy their seedlings at a stage ready to plant out. Choose strong dark leaved, short jointed plants, for such will have been well hardened off. Soil. A fairly rich medium is required for this crop. Make sure that the plot is well supplied with organic matter, but avoid fresh animal manure. In addition, a good sprinkling of superphosphate. Like its cousin the potato, one of the chief requirements of the crop is potash, so add 1 oz. per sq. yard before planting. Or you may prefer to use one of the complete fertilisers. Plant the seedlings about 2ft. 6 inches apart. Firm planting is necessary, and in order to prevent the plants being damaged by winds they should be supported by stakes provided at planting time. If these are put in later you may damage the roots of an established plant When tying use twine or raffia, twice round the stake and once round the stem, leaving a space for the stem to swell. The practice of growing the to- • matoes on a single stem still seems the most popular. As the plant grows pinch out regularly the young leafy growths that develop in the axil between leaf and stem. Be careful to distinguish between these side shoots that are to be removed, and the flower trusses. These come, as a rule, from the main stem just below a leaf. When four or five trusses of fruit have formed, pinch out the tip of the main stem. The plant will then concentrate on the maturing of the fruit, which is most neeessary to ensure that they ripen before the cooler autumn weather. Do not remove the lower foliage unless the leaves have turned yellow, for leaves manufacture( plant foods which feed the fruit. Care of Plants. Unfortunately the tomato, like the potato, is subject to blight. Last summer, owing to the wet season, this was particularly bad. Prevention being better than cure, spray regularly with Bordeaux mixture. Wheh the first bunch of fruit has set it is a good idea to give a topdressing of compost to which has been added a further sprinkling of the fertiliser used. Some prefer feeding with a liquid manure at this stage. Keep the ground round the tomato plants free of weeds and the top soil loose. But do not : delve deeply as they are fairly surface rooting.

' ■■■ i ' nh i i i - •|riiiriT--'T Varieties. There are many varieties that may be grown, the most popular being Best of All, Potentate, Oxheart and Ponderosa. Dwarf growing varieties are available now, and they seem to be terific bearers, but some protection from the ground is needed if clean fruit is desired. One called The Amateur is particularly good.