Up the Otago Central.

Te Aroha News, Volume XXVII, Issue 43378, 26 September 1908, Page 3

Up the Otago Central.

(Contributed.)

Compared with some of the Australian States New Zealand is not a large country. It might therefore be expected that in a comparatively small country little variety of physical configuration would be found. Contrasts of scenery would not be looked for. This, however, is a great mistake. In New Zealand there is wealth of contrast. Possibly no other country of similar size can shew more, if as much. In the North Island we have the Hawke’s Bay plains and the wild rugged Urewera country, the crestclad ranges of the Waimarino and King Country districts, and the bare wind-swept plains of the South Wairarapa. The South Island has the plains of Canterbury, where for over one hundred miles the train travels through country as level as the proverbial table. It also has the rugged, stony uplands of Central Otago. A glimpse of these uplands we now propose giving to our readers.

Leaving Dunedin Railway Station (easily the finest and most expensive in New Zealand) by an early train we proceed a few mile* on the South Line. Then, striking off at right angles, the fertile Taieri Plains are crossed and the ascent of the Taieri cutting begins. For miles the railway runs close to the Taieri River, which twists and pours down its rocky bed. Once a clear stream, it is now yellow with clay discharged into it by the gold dredges and sluicing claims. Slowly up the long ascent climbs the train. Half-way up a stop is made at Hindon Station. Here the passengers obtain refre*hmentß from a station perched on the edge of a cliff, below which the river rushes slowly down. Starting again, the stiffest part of the climb begins. For miles the line has been formed by blasting out the solid rock. Great must have been the danger and expense of laying this part. Nor is the expense and danger all past. From the heights above fragments of stone, are continually falling. Several years ago, a twenty-ton block fell and did great damage. The wisest tyro in rail-way-laying can form some idea of the enormous cost of such a work. Mention 1 the matter to residents of the district, and they will assure you that the line, like so many other lines in New Zealand, is in ' the wrong place. The proper route would have been via Palmerston, Dunback, and then across to Middlemarch. Influence 'with the Government, during whose term of office the line was constructed, is given as the cause of its being “in the wrong place.” After leaving Hindon the line winds upward along the banks of the Deep Creek, a large tributary of the Taieri. In places one can almost drop a stone into the yellow foaming billows far below. Across the stream rise high hills formed of solid rock. Lichens, a few wild poppies, and tussocks constitute the sole evidences of vegetation seen upon them. The scenery, though ragged and barren in the extreme, has beauties of its own peculiar sort. - I At length the long ascent is finished and another small plain, the Strath- | Taieri reached. Forthc first few miles of | this plain stones form the chief part of scenery. They are of all sizes and shapes. Here are stones which, seen in the twilight, or on a misty day, resemble in appearance almost all imaginable objects. Elsewhere are acres of the small flat stones known as schist. After a time the country becomes less stony. Farm houses abound and the country has a look of prosperity. Middlemarch, situated in the Strath-Taieri, is a town about two-thirds the size of Te Aroha, and from its railw iy station large quantities of grain are sent to Dunedin. Though doubtless an attractive place in summer, Middlemarch, on a cold, sleety day, is far from being attractive. Middlemarch having been left behind, the line once more begins to rise, skirting the foothills of the Rock and Pillar Fauge. Fromthis range, when clad with snow, the winds sweep down with polar keenness. The inevitable tussock abounds everywhere. One is assurred by residents of the district that the Otago Central mutton ‘is the finest in the Dominion” (a claim made by the people of other parts of New Zealand) but wonder where the sheep are, not seeing any from the train. Hyde, once an important place in the old mining and coaching days, is reached and soon left behind. At length the train emerges upon the Maniatoto Plains and the writer cold, hungry, and sleepy is glad to alight at Kokonga and stay overnight with friends. The Maniatoto Plains are practically surrounded by mountains. To the right among the foothills of the Mount Ida Range is Naseby, an important mining town. To the left, close to the opposite range, is Patearoa, another mining township. Through the plain runs the railway on its way to Alexandra. Though at times wild and dreary in aspect, the plains and mountains frequently present scenes for the ipen of a Ruskin, or the brush of a Turner, After a heavy fall of snow the sight of the encircling mountains is simply dazzling. Queen of all towers Mount Ida, flanked by her white-robed sisters.

Central Otago presents greater exextremes of climate than any other part of New Zealand. In summer the heat is intense and heavy dust-clouds sweep across the plains. In winter frosts and snowfalls are very severe, while the winds have a keen edge, not soon forgotten by those who have ridden or driven against them. Owing to the dryness of the climate, institutions for the cure of consumption have been established at several places. This climatic quality also favours the growing of fruit. Central Otago apples, peaches, pears, and apricots are for quality inferior to none grown in New Zealand. Despite the mining, farming, land fruit-growing qualities of the district, to which may be added a small tourist the great expense involved in the construction and up-keep of such a line seems, to an observant visitor, scarcely justified when viewed in the light of North Island needs. To spend large sums upon the furthox-ance of the Otago Central Railway, and proceed with the | Gisbome-Rotorua, or Gisborne-East Coast line at the hitherto snail-like rate of progress is worse than foolish. We admire the push and enterprise of Otago settlers. We wish to see their end of our land opened and its resources developed. We do wish and claim, however, to see justice done in the spending of public money, irrespective of district, province or political views.