The Inns of Persia.

Te Aroha News, Volume VII, Issue 466, 26 April 1890, Page 3

The Inns of Persia.

By S. G. W. Benjamin, formerly U.S. Minister to Persia. [Copyrighted, 1889, by the Author.] ‘ Alec !’ ‘Baly, baly, Sahib !’ (Aye, aye, sir.) ‘ Push on ahead, have a room swept clean at the khan, and let there be a cup of hot tea against our coming.’ ‘ B’cheshm !’ (on my eyes be it) replies Alec, and digging his heels into his horse, the faithful fellow dashes off at full speed, and disappears in a cloud of dust. Some such conversation as this occurs when one is approaching a stopping place or station when travelling in Persia. Jogging along at,a fast .walk,after,half an hour we arrivb in sight of the khan, or wayside inn,where one at once perceives the importance of despatching a servant in advance to prepare a lodging. The inn consists of a square inclosure built of adobe a little off the road. Around it are grouped caravans of donkevs, mules, or camels, which cannot find space within. They are quietly lying on the ground resting, and their loads are lying here and there in heaps. There, except in midwinter, they may pass months without fear of rain, having only to dread occasional wind and dust storms and the heat of noonday. The horses of our own train pass through . a high arched gate and are stalled within the inclosure. The mangers are merely troughs hollowed out of the thick mud wall, and the animals are prevented from kicking each other by being tethered to iron spikes driven' into the ground. A light frame covered with boughs serves as a roof for this primitive stable. The provender consists of straw and barley, but never oats. In the centre of the court-yard is a square stone platform, on which the hostler'sleeps, no roof over him but the sky. The horses, by the way, notwithstanding the mildness of the climate, are carefully blanketed, to a degree uncommon elsewhere. This does not appear to make the animals tender. At any rate, they are as tough as any other, horses, while it is a fact that no better, breeds are found than those of Persia. The travellers’ quarters are for the most' part on the second floor above, the magazines on the ground. It is hardly likely'that the inn possesses more than three or four large rooms, from which one walks out over the

flab roof Of the first, storey and enjoys a delightful; prospect in the'cool of the even-

.iqgi 'Y v- l " : The apartments: have, not ,particle of furniture excepting hasseer, or straw matting, on the earthen.floor. This mat needs to be swept on the arrival of a new occupant, who carries and spreads his own rugs, on which his own mattresses are laid. Under the circumstances, even a travelling cot seems superfluous, as one does nob feel the nakedpqss Of .the apartment when .reclining on .the floor by an open window ; but immediately-'a cot is opened one wishes for a chair and a table. I have often noticed this whimsical operation of the fancy when travelling in the Orient. The windows aire from floor to ceiling entirely across thO room, protected with board 1 shutters, but devoid of glass and sashes. During the greater part of the year one sleeps wibb qpen windows, and the prevailing wind is so'dry. and warm that one rarely'feels ill-effect in Persia- even, from sleeping in a draught, After riding all? night, I remember once sleeping at Aivaiiikeff from nine in the morning until four in the afternoon between two windows in a tower,' through which a gale was howling at the rate of 1 forty miles in hour. But the thermomete'r stood at 107 Fahr. in the shade, and instead of being killed by such seeming improvidence I awoke refreshed and with a vigorous appetite for the evening moal.v Speaking of that evening meal, which was taken on the fiat, roof overlooking the town and the vast Elfiorz range, behind which the sun was setting, reminds me that the question of supplies becomes one of pressing importance on arriving at a Persian khan. The samovar or tea urn is always in waiting on the traveller’s arrival, and scarcely is he seated on the floor before his servant or tffp innkeeper brings him a scalding hot cup of excellent tea. I say excellent, because, whatever the quality of the tea. it is invariably steeped properly, a matter nob so common as one might suppose; even the best of tea poorly brewed is vile ; one may go through France and not be able to get a good cup of tea at any inn. The Persians serve tea in gracefully shaped glasses, flavoured with lemonade and richly sweetened. But one cannot live on tea alone, especially with an appetite whetted by riding several long hours through mountain air. If. the traveller is a" European and has. canned meats or a supply of good red wine, ’tis well; otherwise he must fare as do the natives, and that is not so bad after all. The menu is limited, but very palatable. . The keeper of this primitive hostel, who is a sort of all-round workman, mildly suggests that he can furnish a ragout of lamb, which is sure to bo savoury, kebabs, or a pillan. The kebabs can- be recommended. They consist of titbits of lamb broiled on a skewer, and are undoubtedly the most delicious method of cooking lamb, if eaten immediately off the fire. The pillan is also nob to be omitted ; it is the Oriental dish of seasoned rice, cooked with an art of which only Orientals have the secret, and is both wholesome and satisfying. . . - This simple but capital dish is brought in on a round disc of copper, which is placed on a low stool n6ar the window. The traveller, of course, furnishes his own plates, knives, forks, and .spoons. Coffee foll9ws,.?nud tthe |wiayeUer, : ;after a dreamj? smoke oh the.,kaUan., ./throws jjjm-i self on the niabtress, Uiid sleeps until eight, o'clock in the 'eventflg, or eight iff the 1 , morning, ■ according -to the for 1 during the ' summer-travelling is done at night. * On the more important highways, such as the roads to Mesched. or Ispahan, these country hotels are sometimes crowded, the poorer travellers sleeping on the ground in the courtyard, on the roof, or in the open outside of the enclosure. At sunset the scene is then exceedingly interesting—the different groups engaged in feeding their horses or preparing their meals. Immediately alter the sun has set a mallah or priest, if there be one at hand, or a seyed or descendant of the Prophet, of whom there are multitudes in Persia, ascends the roof of the khan, and with a mellow, sonorous cry, heard far over the hills and valleys, summons the faithful to prayer. Then on all sides one may see men of every age and degree kneeling and reverently offering their orisons. Whether Mohammedanism bo a true or false religion is no concern of mine, at:least, here ; bub I can say that nothing I have seen or : heard in any church has ever impressed me half so much or given me so vivid an idea of the possible existence of the great ruler of the destinies of man as the sunset prayer in - Mohammedan countries. When scores of millions daily at that hour lay aside their business to pray one feels that there must be something in religion, and that a share of truth pervades all the cults which sway entire races and empires! When the traveller arrives at ah Oriental city of size he finds the same general plans followed in the inns which there afford him shelter. But the system is naturally more elaborate, displaying an extensive and remarkable organisation. The city khatris generally an immense quadrangle built of masonry. Around this are the rooms!-.each having an earthen floor, the low entrance usually without a door, and a vaulted roof. The traveller engages one of these rooms, has it cleaned and spread with his own rugs. He cooks his meals himself or deputes this duty to his servant, if able to have one. If ib be cold weather a maugal or brazier containing lighted charcoal supplies the warmth he is unable to obtain from his ample tunic. If he is to remain in there some time he next engages a temporary wife to add to his domestic,, comforts. They go before a priest : iff'doctor- of.-the law, who witnesses the contract, which is most formal, and among other provisions, must state the exact duration ;of the coiltract. Nei6ber I ',patty o loees -;fcaSbe: i by' tqis; peculiarly. Persian custoni, nor does the, gentleman expect any blame-from his wives ,at . home for accepting one of the benoficeni institutions of his country. If our traveller happens to be an itinerant his bales of goods are placed in his room at the khan and customers may come there to. trade with him. This custom is often alluded .to in the Arabian Nights.

Another curious feature of the city inns is their frequent apportionment bo different districts or cities. Thus most transient visitors visiting Teheran from Tabreez or the adjacent districts are likely to collect at one particular khan. Those from Mesched at another; those from Ispahan and the south at another, and so on. In case it becomes necessary to find a certain man. the first place to look for him is at the khan where his fellow citizens resort. In the absOhce of• k regular vdetective force this is a great convenience to the authorities, 1 when searching for criminals,for sooner or later they are such geese a# to turn up at the khan of their own people.' A rogue who had robbed, an, American citizen at Urumieh was. reported to have come to Teheran. He was searched for high and low. At last, however, it was reported to me that he had been seen stealing out of the Tabreez kahn. The promise of a backsheesh to'one of the people stay;ibg there proved so effectual that next rime the fellow crept into the khan the officers were at once informed, and nabbed him as he passed out of the gate. There is an excellent semi - European

hotel, maintained by the Government, at Casbin, partly for the convenience of the diplomatic corps, who always approach the capital from that; quarter, and a small, tolerably good French hotel with a good cuisine now exists at Teheran, But with these exceptions the accommodations offered the travelling public in Persia are such as are above described.