FASHION ITEMS.

Te Aroha News, Volume V, Issue 253, 25 April 1888, Page 3

FASHION ITEMS.

A hvn\ writer on fashions in a Tasmanian paper bays :—: — Among the more recent decrees of fashion, is one which should commend itself to those who object to extremes I refer to the gradual bub steady departure from all superfluous drapery upon gowns. The construction of these now tends towards the adoption of straight lines. In the best made examples the draperies are already o f a simple description, and are scarcely more than are required to redeem the outlines fiom severity. But one feature demands special attention : it is that the more simple the dress the more faultless should be its cut, the more perfect its fit. In a very tasteful model I noticed that the whole skht of the dre"s consisted of upper skirt and draperies in one, the breadths of the front being drawn up into three or fom upward turning pleats, which were lightly held in position by a few scarcely noticeable stitches at intervals and the fulness at the back was drawn into soft-looking folds at the top — an arrangement which has a very simple yet elegant effect, and which is adaptable to most figures. A great many varieties of the closely-fitting bodice exist : thus one may select a shape which is buttoned down the front from throat to basque without deviation, or the vest— either plain or bouillonne — may be inserted. Then there is the loose fronted bodice with pointed vest beneath, as well as the double-breasted front; and prettiest of all, that which turns back with a revers each side from a softly-pleated vest. Nearly all bodices continue to be cut to a sharp point in front, while there is considerable scope for individual taste in the style of the basque tei initiation at the back. Thus the latter may be arranged in double or threefold pleats, with or with out a rovers, in contrasting material ; it may also bo cut simply to a point like the front, or it may be continued a la Princwse, till it is merged into the folds of drapery which appertain to the skirt. A pretty diver gence from the coat sleeve to which we have been so long accustomed is observable in recent models. In one of these the upper portion of the sleeve is very slightly gathered below the elbows into a deep straight cuff, which forms the lower part. Another sleeve has the outer section disposed in long, close peats from the shoulder to the elbow, where they are caught by a few invisible stitches, and they are confined again above the wrist with a coupJe of rows of gathers placed an inch or so from the edge of the material, which thus forms a sort of frill. This style is only suitable for soft materials. There is a growing tendency towards tho employment of passementerie ornaments as garniture for dresses. These may be of silk cord and bead? of cut steel or jet, with pendants, and they are frequently placed independently upon one or both sides of the vest, across which they occasionally form a clasp on either side of the high collar, on the cuffs, upon the blurt immediately below the bodice at one side, and among the folds of drapery which. they apparently serve to hold in place.