Untitled

Te Aroha News, Volume V, Issue 242, 18 February 1888, Page 3 (Supplement)

Gh>-eva, Switzerland, November 27, 1887. —Journeying from Paris by bho chemin de ftr de Lyons that south-easterly course leads tho tourist through Dijon, Macon and a host of other places of minor interest often chosen to rest in by those who find it desirable to " break " a tedious journey. The smiting country through which our course leads, clothed with luxuriant vines and rich with luscious fruit, where evory inch of soil is utilised and the prevailing spirit is thrift, most truly deserves its name of "Fair France." One feature in the present life here that constantly is seen impresses the American mind unfavourably, however, that is the employment of women in out-door work, such as hoisting railway signals — it may be supposed because the men are more actively employed, but that does not always follow. Crossing the border into Switzerland, an official comes on the train and makes a searching inquiry respecting the name, nationality, and occupation, and the object of each traveller in visiting the country. It is all done with perfect politeness, and in no way calculated to be felt intrusive or offending. Anivingat Geneva by rail, you enter at the northern extremity of the town, and those who elect to make the town proper their resting-place have a great loss compared to those who select an hotel or pension looking out on the lake ; that glorious lake, that though poets have lived and loved and sung there for three or four centuries, the theme has never become exhausted. To say the waters at Geneva, or aa it was known to the Romans, Lake Leman, are blue, is no mere figure of speech, they are veritably turquoise of the deepest and richest tone, not from celestial reflection, but from what might be termed actual and local colour. The way to enjoy Geneva is to leisurely traverse the town on foot. Though not remarkable for architectural triumphs, the place has a charm peculiarly its own * ifc is old, quaint, varied, rich in colour, picturesque, and inviting. The name, Geneva, means outlet of river, being situated at that westerly point of the lake from which the Rhine flows. It is a great centre of the tourist world, being directly on tbo road from Paris into Italy or Switzerland. It also is fche most populous city in the country, though not the capital, and may certainly be regarded as tho intellectual metropolis. Among tho few attractions in the way of sights are two museums. The Public Library contains, besides a fine collection of valuable books, many interesting relics. Among them voluminous writings by Calvin, in MS., one of th«m a letter to Lrdy Jane Grey, while a prisoner in the

Tower ; MS. of' the "Noble I*co» ;' a' work of the ancient Waldenses ; discourses of Sfc. Augustine ; Papyrus MS. of the seventh century ; letters of Sfc. Vincent de Paul, Rousseau and many others. A build* ing known as the Hall of Reformation was erected as a monument to Calvin, and is used for lectures and educational purposes. A Museum'of Fine Arts is used as a seat by learned societies. There is also a Botanic Garden, containing an insignificant collection of plants on ground rendered historic by horrible butcheries perpetrated in 1794 on many of the best of the inhabitants by" theirfellow oitizens, acting under order from the Comte dv Saint Public at Paris. A curious social custom exists among the inhabitants of seeking out a number of families as associates for their children and forming sort of friendly clubs, known as Societies de Dimanch. Itt these the young people grow up, frequently marry, and in any case ' tjw' relations last through life, the tie being often closer than that of ' blood. The principal indußtry, as everyone knows, i* watchmaking. This began as early as 15J-/, and ' reached its greatest height, a century ago, when 4,000 hands were Employed 'in. it within, the city, and from 2;000 bo 3j006' in the country. Since then there Has Jbeen 'a. diminution/ in the number of T etaploy'&s^but' owing ,to . increased advantages of machinery, there is a large increase in'- the product, Fijie* jewellery* i&'afao extensively manufactured, and is" subject tqinspection from a_ public official, to "prevent • deterioration of o the ( precious metal and consequent injury to jo profitable a trade. Musical" poxes are 'also among the articles for which Geneva is famed, besides the well-known ; fandy articles carved Jn wood, . Though shops abound replete with these dainty toys, and we hear so much of poverty ana small pay among the, workers there, these same productions may be bought as cheaply in Sari Francisco as, on, the spot where they are made. " GenQvaiWajsitbe^cehe^ of; Calvin's many^ y^a.rsr, Jwhen unls36thfl' reformer Geneva into Basle* the former cit/, having : embraced the reformation, invited' him,- to stay, there. The house occupied by /Calvin has long been an object of interest to pious piigriras.i He is buried in the Cemetery Plain-Palais, at Geneva, but in accordance with his desire, no monument marks his.. tomb. Sir Humphrey Davy is also buried there, having died at Genera in, 1829, and stated in his will he wished to, be buried, where he died. The surroundings of the Lake of Geneva ear, altogether lovely, , o Many charming villas adorn its banks, and various minor towns afford delightful quarters to those who spend the summer moiifchs in higher , altijbudes. Lovely gardens, luxuriant vineyards,, and shady groves surround the houses, that .dot the banks of :thftt glorious water, No' wonder. Byron 1 , lingered by its bewitching shore* and wrote, it~V. Beautiful ag a dream," or; that Victor' Hugo, and Lamar tine were inspired by its Bparkliag waters. • ,v, v . *./ At.JFeemer, near the lake, Voltaire-re-aided, and drew, around ,himu« 5 brilliant; circle of gilted men, many of whom Iwere' Irefugees. Voltaire never, tired <ot repeaV me •* Moji lac t»f la prtmiirtf^when. boasting of its indisputable auperJority. > .' '. ,tl^ boat* the lftko art- picturesque.' The first •team>pat- T fche iWiHiKm/TeU-^ wm started by an American, ahd some of fk9 pasaonger steamers -of I>he«pres»n<rd»y"

somewhat resemble those on the Hudson river. Man) ourious relics have been found in the lake, composed of bronze and pottery. Rocks are found there on whioh it is supposed the Romans offered sacrifice to Neptune. At Ouchy, near Lausanne, facing the Castle of Chillon, at the Ancre Inn, m the summer of 1816, a visitor was detained by stress of weather. He wrote to while away the time. Two days were pnseed, mid the result was, "The Prisoner of CUillon." Tho story, a fictitious one, almost coincides with the circumstances of a real imprisonment, that of Bonnivard, Prior of St. Victor, who, in endeavouring to free the people from the yoke of the Puke of Savoy, incurred his displeasure so as to be incarcerated in tho castle for six long years. When at length the castle was taken by tho Swiss and tho captive set at liberty, ho found his country free. Tho castle, as almost everyone knows, stands on a rock on the very verge of the lake. It was built in 1238 by a Duke of Savoy, was used as a State prison^ and many early reformers languished in irons within its walls. Tho castle has long been set aside as a magazine for military stores but visitors are admitted to view the interior, with its many suggestions of horriblythrilling interest. The torture chamber, with its revolting devices, the blackened beam on which victims were hung, and the opening in the wall through which tho bodies were cast into the lake are shown. Some of the dungeons have floors and walls of the solid rock. Amongst the names of visitors inscribed there are found those of Charles Dickens, Shelley, and Mrs H. B, Stowe. At Coppet is a chateau interesting as having been the home and property of Mme. de Stael, who acquired it from her father, M. Necker, Minister of Louis XVI. It contains portraits of her and her parents ; also of M. Rocca, her second husband. A room there is shown as tho study of tho gifted owner, in which she composed many of her works. Her desk and

inkstand are alao shown. She formed here a brilliant social circlo, atferward dispersed by tho devastations of Napoleon. Vevey, the second town in Canton Vaud, is a very favourite winter and summer resort ; the situation is lovely and haa been 1 written of by Jean Jaques Rousseau, who was the son of a Geneva watchmaker and one of the many shining lights of literature who graced the neighbourhood. Rou»seau's favouiite cafe (Le Clef) still exists and is marked by tho sign of a key. The country around is thickly Befc with vineyards, and some wines produced there have quite a reputation. The writer has tasted some strongly resembling the common white wine of California. It is supposed tho Romans first planted the vines upon these hills, and an ancient stone has bean found bearing an inscription showing a temple of Bacchus has existed on the margin of the lake, between Vevey and Lausanne. This quarter is much resorted to by invalids, for the purpose df practising the grapo cure, the season for which begins in September and lasts about a month ; also for the cure by means of goat's whey. La Tour de Peiley is a little hamlet near Vevey, where are two round towers of unknown antiquity, which a legend connects with the time of the Holy Wars. Claren^s, a short distance by tail or water from Vevey, iff one of the .most charming spots round the lake, -and has been enthusiastically immortalised by Rousseau in his Clarens, sweet Clarens, birthplace of deep love • Thiaeair is the young breath of passionate thought : Thy treos toke root In Jove; the snows above, The very glaciers have hi« colours caught. After passing Clarens, the shore becomes more rocky and precipitous, and is more thickly built upon, till reaching Montreuxs where are many old-established pensions. Villenenye is another attractive point, and opposite to it a small island, Isle de Paix, mentioned by Byron in the " Prisoner ofChillon": And then thore was a little is'e. Which in my very face did smile. Tho only on« in view, etc. — E.S.R., correspondent of the "Chronicle."