Dresses at the Jubilee cremonial.

Te Aroha News, Volume V, Issue 216, 20 August 1887, Page 7

Dresses at the Jubilee cremonial.

Thk dresses worn 'at Westminster on Jubileei Day were rather light and niry than specially brilliant. Mrs Humphreys ("Madge," Of "Truth") thus describes spine of the most notable in the " Dail> News " :— The sisters who are nearest each other in age, the Crown Princess of (Jcrnaany and Princess Christian of SchleswigHolstein, wore di esses cut from the same piece of bilk. Th« co'our was a very beautiful find delicate Miude of grey, neither silver nor pearl, yet suggesting both as the light caught the folds at different angles, flic trimmiug was different on each diess. That of the Crown Princess consisted of n quantity of real Turkish embroidery on soft white .muKlin. The design was a palmleaf, well scattered over the ground, uud worked in gold, .silver, and white silk. Two panels of this laid over cream coloured satin, and slightly draped with the giey ottoman, formed the front. Rich folds of the silk weie skilfully diaped at the back. Princess Chilian's dichs was tiiunr.cd Avith costly old lace. These dresses, like all those worn in the procession, were made with short trains. Touched of olive vehet here and there lent value to the Aery pale and delicate shade of giey, and tiuew into relief the mellow tone of the old lace. Princess Beatrice always wears voiy artistic colours, and on the present occasion her dress was admhably chosen. The bodice and train were of brocaded ottoman in a soft and lovely shade of coral pink. The front of the dress was in satin ot the palest pink, covered with exquisitely embroidered lisse in a ten? ot pink so pale that only when it was masked together in folds could any colour be perceived. The embroidery was very fine, and in the same almost inwsiblc tint of pink. The design was rich and thick at the edge, but above this wide border it scattered off into binglc flowers, strewn here and there, and very light in effect. Wherever the cmbioidery met the brocade a few folds of dark wallflower velvet were introduced, matei ially softening the junction ot tints. iM an ties were forbidden by Royal order to the ladies in the procession, but many of them had a few folds of costly lace round the neck and fastened with diamond cla?;>s or lace- pins. Princess Chiistian's giaceiul lace jabot wa* held in at the waist by nairow bands of olhe velvet) like that which trimmed her drc-sp. The Queen being in mourning, her ladies.in -waiting arc obliged to wear black, which may be relieved with touches of unite. Some beautiful effects were obtained in this combination. Black lace over white satin always looks well, especially when combined with the soft daikncss of velvet and the glimmer of finely-cut iet. Many ladies who had seats in the Abbey wore black relieved with white. A favourite form of dress was that in which Chantilly lace was diaped over white satin in front, while the bodice and back drapciies v»ere in the fashionable black checks formed by alternate squares of silk and satin. A few yellow dresses gave invaluable lelief to the sombre tone 1 -. One of thes-e was composed of a yellow canvas and satin stripe over silk of the same tone of colour, and tied with yellow ribbons. The giey dieses were effective in proportion to their paleness of tint. The white ones Avere, perliap?, moie effective than any others, the eye singling them out almost unconsciously, Avhile led, green, blue and giey failed to attract attention. The beautiful tint of bluish pink known as " dying rose " in always lovely, and a dress of silk in this colour, draped Avith very soft and fine cieam-colourcd lace, and surmounted by a lace bonnet with feathers in 11 dying lose" pink, Avere particularly successful. Young giilb woie chiefly Avhite, A r ery often relieved with hash and libbon.s of pale yellow. Jt Avas noticeable that very little blue av«s seen, a colour soveiymuch worn in every shade in the early daA/b of our Queen's reign. The Jubilee bonnets are of the airiest description, perched like birds on the summit oi a careful coiffure. Composed of tucked tulle in palest shades of pink, primrose, heliotrope, or apple green, the trimming Avas always in one spot, just above the centre of the broAv ; and the strings, if strings there were, almost invaiiably consisted of tulle like that of Avhich the bonnets Avere constructed. Among the grey toilets, that worn by a countess was noticeable for the consistency Avith which the idea running through it had been carried out. The material Avas grey moire antique, trimmed Avith vandyked flounces pinked out at the edges. The bodice fitted admirably to a beautiful figure, which Avas displayed to advantage by the graceful disposition of folds of grey lisse, held doAvn by diagonal bands of giey ribbon. This is the sort of dress to have one's portrait taken in. Many of the white goAvns Avere Avorn over a colour, having ribbons of the same run in and out through the embroidery lengthAvise, each ending in a loop at the feet. With a sash to match, and a touch of similar colour in the bonnet or hat, this is an excellent style. Tailormade dresses were by no means absent on an occasion to Avhich they would have been considered, two or three years ago, to be Avholly unsuited. One of these, in fine light cloth of a silvery tone of grey, was richly embroidered in silver on the yoke of the bodice on the collar, and again on the cuffs. The light folds of grey cloth on the skirt parted at intervals to show a Redfern panel of silver embroidery, on which the cloth buttoned down Avith buttons of antique silver. The small grey bonnet was relieved Avith an aigrette of tea rosebuds, these being the only touch of positive colour in the entire costume. Diamond earrings or pears and diamonds were almost universal, and Eome of very unusual beauty were seen. A connoisseur of gems Avould have recognised some that are historic among those displayed. In many cases a diamond clasp Avas introduced among the bonnettrimmings or a fly composed of brilliants was perched upon the brim. Some historic lace, too, was to be seen. A beautiful dress was Avorn in the procession, thetrain and bodice of Avhich were composed of a very uncommon brocade in shot moire, the ground of which Avas a yellowish pale-green, streAvn with reed-like leaves in the softest tones of pink and blue. The front of the dress Avas in pale blue satin, on Avhich some lace Avith a history Avas deftly arranged in long lines upon tne pale blue. The sides of the train were also edged with the lace and the bodice was trimmed with pome as Avell. A heliotrope dress in Ottoman silk of the very softest texture had the front and one side of the skirt draped with heliotrope net, from which hung innumerable small pendants of beads in the same rich tint. Folds of the silk Avere draped pirtly over this in the form of a large bow with drooping ends. Ac tho back the skirt Avas turned in at. the edge in a sort of puff which was quite novel. The gorgeous Indian dre&ses formed an admirable point of colour irradiated by the living fire of the ma" nificent jeAvels lavished upon them. The glitter of gold was used upon these Eastern robes Avith a discretion and an effect that only Orientals seem to know hoAV to ;iise and to produce. In striking contrast to these dresses Avas the shining white array of a'fe.w of, the Orientals', with turbaned heads and gold -shod feet.

The whole never-to-be-forgotten scone was rich in " bits" of exquisite colour, sortie of lhen\ purely accidental in juxtaposition ; others evidently the result of thought and care and cultivated taste.