THE NEW WONDERLAND. The Marvels, of the Walotapu Valley. {By a Recent Visitor. )

Te Aroha News, Volume V, Issue 216, 20 August 1887, Page 5

THE NEW WONDERLAND. The Marvels , of the Walotapu Valley. {By a Recent Visitor. )

Seated afcthe dinner table of that m.ost comfortable of hotels, the Palace, at R6torua (of which Host Macrae, the hero of Wairoa, is proprietor), discussing the flavour of well-cooked pheasant, our conversation was natuially about this splendid bird— the sport it afforded in tho field, and tho further pleasure it contributed at the table, when our host broke in with " talk about phensants, why Galatea swarms with them. This, indeed, was pheasant news to mo, for having carried my "Greener" £540 miles through New Zealand without firing a shot, I was inclined to think the boasted plethora of game a hoax. So our route would be through the now famous Waiotapu Valley. It did not tako three of us long deciding on making the trip. Later in the evening Mr Taylor, the affable and clever guide agent for the Wniotapu Valley, ottered to join us, and was gladly welcomed. Next morning we started on our journey, leaving Whukarowarewa on our left, and following the Taupo Road through the Homo George, a little fuithei on we branch to the left, following a new road lately surveyed by Mr Blythe, and now being constructed under the supervision of Mr Morgan. Arriving at Mr Blythe's camp, in his absence we were warmly -welcomed by Mr Morgan, and as time would not allow of a thorough inspection ot the valley that day, we contented ourselves with a closor inspection of the marvellous Maungakakaramea, which at a distance is certainly a marvel of colouring, not to be reproduced on canvas. The next morning we were early astir, and visited the Green Lake, on the wateis o* which were several hundreds of " grebe," but owing to its being Sunday wo could but look on and wish. After breakfast, leaving the camp, and tiavelling about a mile down the Taupo Road at about 10 chains from the road line we arrhed at the Point Cauldion. Further on we reach the mud volcano, tho most perfect cone in existence, iilled to the brim w ith boiling mud, and throwing up bubbles charged with an oil which shows us a black speck on each bubble. The volcano, as measured by Mr Blythe and staff, is ten feet high and thirty feet across at top. At a little distance from this is a small volcano, quietly working up mud of a snowy whiteness. Next we passed a hot blue lake and mud cone, and iol lowing down a hot water cieek, arrhed ac the Yellow Spring, a deposit of almost jmie sulphur ; a mo^t beautiful and unique sight, surrounded as it is by a silicate formation resembling coral of a greenish hue. The deposit is ten feet high and twelve feet across at base, and i.s situated immediately below a sleeping geyser. Leaving this we pass many pools of black, green and blue shades, which would well repay visiting. Later on wo arrive at the banks of the Waiotapu River, the water rushing madly over the ruins of a broken terrace, on the top of which are two small cones most perfect in shape. On carefully making our way thiough steaming holes and pitfalls, we airive at a pit some ten yards across and twehe feet deep, having a larye deposit of sulphur on its eastern tide, the sun shining on it giving it a very line appearance. The ground about here is very treacherous, and should not be ti'averbed except in company with a guide. Aiound here aie very fine sulphur deposits, and pure sulphur specimens several pounds in weight can be proem ed. The earth in this particular spot is very richly coloured, and by merely disturbing the surface fresh colours are brought to v iew. Nexfc to claim our attention is the Hot Lake, homo oO yards across-., the wateiß of which have a bitter, raw taste, which clings to the mouth for tome time. The water, when disturbed with a stick, sends up innumerable air bubbles, resembling a-iated wateis when uncorked — an astonishing effect. Waltzing around the margin of the lake, each foothtep produces a hollow sound.

The New Terrace. At the noi th-eastevn side we cross the oveifloAV, and are reminded of its temperature by the howling of onr dogs, which compels us to return and cany them over. Some 30 yards away a dark hole is emitting sounds like a mighty throb, and now we reach the terraces (kotore kai a moa). At fivfc sight, and to one who saw the White and Pink Terraces six years ago, this one is disappointing, being of a dull grey colour, but it has many beauties which charm you on acquaintance. In one place, where broken, it proves to be only some three or four inches thick, and mainly composed of the many-coloured clays to be found in this district. At the lower portion of the terrace the silica has formed itself into myriads of pearls, which has a marvellous effect. Farther down the cully is the Primrose Falls, some 16 feefc in height, and quite unique. It is caused by a sulphurous deposit, and is beautifully smooth. Some person had taken the trouble to write his name and dwelling-place here, but one of our party defaced it. Fortunately, the falls do not solicitate like the lost Pink Terrace, or we should be inflicted with names which are not known outside of the neighbourhood in whicli the perpetrator dwells. Leaving here and turning to the right some 50 yards brought us to the Alum Cliffs, so called because of the amount of alum contained in the clays. At the foot of these cliffs, and on the near side of a pool about 20 yards across, is a small sandbank, in the centre of which is a sight which cannot be seen elsewhere, namely, a boiling sulphurous pool 18 inches in diameter, the water being puro yellow. About a quarter of a mile from here is a hot lake, which as yet has not been prospected, and which time wouM not allow us to visit. Retracing our steps, we recross the river on a natural bridge formed of earth, under which the boiling water seethes and hisses, and arrive at Crater Flat, so called owing to the number of pits. Passing between two holes we learn ,the one on our left is ; christened The Mystery, owing to the noises it gives vent to, without any apparent ! cause. For some seconds a low growl is heard as of a watch dog, growing louder and louder, until it reaches a harsh, loud 1 roar, reminding us of the roar of an enraged lion, and causing our flesh to creep. This place is well named the " Mystery," and has a great effect on the nerves. The hole on the right is the Yellow Chimney. A double waterfall of hot water was the next point of interest. The two streams are about 20 yards apart, and here we enjoyed an unusual luxury by bathing under it, a most delightful sensation. About 50 yards higher up the stream another waterfall occurs. Continuing our course we arrive at \ the Coral Basin and Blue Bath. The Coral Basin is a lovely little pool, six feet in diameter, and filled with water, and of unfathomable depth. Down one side there is, a, beautiful deposit of sulphur, which gave rise to its name ; next we are confronted by a mud geyser, throwing up the mud, some 15 feet in height. Immediately adjoining this is a black sulphurous lake surrounded by small mud cones, j fejpu^r'.tp fis „' Porridge; ' Potte of R6to- 1

mahana. One, curiously enough, haa taken the shape of a huge tea pot ' A little further on we reach a palo green pond about 40 yards in circumference. •About three yards away is a small hole, into which Mr Morgan three days previously had put a birds' nest, and it already showed a sulphurous coating. The Bubbling Lake, with Pink Crater at head, was the next sight. The lake is about two chains wide and five chains long, and on its hot surface thb curious sight of twe widgeon swimming contentedly was to be seen, The Capfc. Bly the n&awha was next passed, and we arrived at Young Tikitera, the devils' cauldron on a small scale. Te \Vai o pareauru, a seething cauldron partly covered with a black scum resembling the scum on Laughing Gas Pool, Avaa the last of the sight-seeing. We heard that a confiding dog only a lew days previously had mistaken this scum for terra lirma, and leapt on it. As he sank beneath the .scalding water one yell testified to his agony, and no tx ace of him was seen again. Mounting our hoiscs, we bid adieu to Mr Morgan, deeply grateful to him for his trouble in guiding us to the diffei ent points of interest, and were informed by him that we were the only tourists who had seen so many of the wonders. Shortly afterwards we crossed the extensive Kaiugaioa plains, which husbandry, assisted by chemistry, will s>orne day convert into a mine of wealth for thecolony. Hundreds of wild horses roam on these plains, and could afford excellent sport to young men who have a few days to spare and are in want of a good hack That evening wo reached Galatea, and enjoyed some grand shooting for sc\cial days afterwards, travelling beyond the old mis-ion station at Ahikereru, formerly the residence of the late Rev. Mr Preece. During the flight of Te Kooti, he is said to have slept one night in this house on his way to the Waikato. The house is now being demolished by the Maoris and taken to build whaics at their settlement a short distance away. We leturned home thoroughly pleased with our spott and tiip, and a full determination to repeat it at first possible opportunity. ________________