FARM AND GARDEN.

Te Aroha News, Volume IV, Issue 162, 24 July 1886, Page 5

FA RM AND GARDEN.

Pruning Fruit Trees (Continued.) Thirdly : When the tree has attained some size and carries crops of fruit, the high winds will not have such power on the tree ; less fruit will be knocked off the tree, and the branches will not be bo liable to get broken or bruised as tall-stemmed trees. Fourthly : If trees are attacked by any of the different insect pests, it is much easier to get them killed on low- headed trees than, on tall-growing ones. In ptuning a young tree I would cut it back so as to try and produce three or four branches one and a half to two feet from the ground, as » framework from which to build the tree. If the tree was to form a pyramid, the top shoot would need to be trained straight up, the side shoots horizontally from the trunk, continuing so year after year. If for tha ordinary bush form, the young shoots should be trained out with a curve from the centre. These shoots next winter should be pruned back to about a foot in length, and in the following spring they ought to be allowed to develop about the ehoots on each branch, go as every year to increase the number of main branches endeavouring during the growing period to preserve a a round upright open head. By'practising this system till the tree arrives at a full bearing condition, very little pruning will thereafter be needed, except to cut shoots that are inclined to close up the centre of the tree, and occasionally to thin out the top branches if inclined to grow too thickly, or cutting back ehoots which are inclined to grow too long, and thereby destroy the symmetry of the tree. I would use this system with apple, cherry, and peach trees. Most of the peara do better as pyramids. With trees thus treated it will seldom be found necessary to remove large limbs, which I would avoid as far as possible, except in the case of a tree that from some cause has become diseased or enfeebled in growth, when it might be necessary to cut back the old wood severely. This reducing of the head will give it a chance to recuperate and send out afresh batch of healthy shoots. When large branches are removed, the wound should be pared smoothly with a sharp knife so that it may heal quickly. The best season to prune where branches of more than one year's growth are to be removed is early in springr, just before the sap begins to circulate. If done while the sap is flowing freely, the wound ie likely to bleed, the sap becomes soured and is likely to cause decay. Regarding the usual winter or rest pruning of trees, I consider the indiscriminate cutting back ef all shoots of the previous year's growth a very bad practice. — Hoktus.

(To be Continued)