EXPLORATION OF NEW GUINEA.

Te Aroha News, Volume 64, Issue II, 23 August 1884, Page 5

EXPLORATION OF NEW GUINEA.

An Exciting Story of Adventure, Priva tion, and Narrow Escapes. The most recent attempt to explore the un known country cf Now Guinea, which was undertaken by the proprietors of the Mel"bourne '" Age," forms an interesting and xciting stoiy of the terrible hardships and wonderful escapes from death of a party of ike under command of Captain Strachan, who, we understand, is still suf roving from a long period of great exposure and trial. Tho party consisted 01 Captain Strachan, Messrs Walker (journalist), (naturalist), Scott (miner), and Kerry (mate). During the trip the party travelled 600 miles into the interior of New Guinea, and discovei'ed tw elve large and deep new rivers. They travelled farther inland than any white man has ever done before, and made many important discoveries respecting the nature of the country. __ Captain Strachan, leader of the expedition, in writing to the "Melbourne Age,"' says that " the country is as a rule healthy after leaving the coast, and tho timber heavy and valuable, mostly blackwood of splendid growth. The soil ih generally good, dai'k, vegetable mould or chocolate soil, while the plains w ould make splendid cattle country. There are no inhabitants in the interior ; and for 90 miles along the coast the men from the west, who were met on the war path, have eaten them all oH", leaving no one to tell the tale.'"

A Special Account. One of the exploring party, Mr Thomas C. Kerry, whose friends live at Remuera, is now in Auckland, and ho has kindly furnished us with a special account ot the voyage. Ho says : — On April 3rd we left Sydney in the steamer Woo Sung, and went from thereto Thursday Island, taking with us a whaleboat, firearms, ammunition, and provisions. At Thursday Island we bought a schooner of 10 tons register named the Foy, and proceeded in her to Mabiac Here we remained for two or three days, and having placed everything in order, we went to the island of Dion, for the purpose of obtaining the assistance of some natives. In this we failed, and proceeded to Saibai w ith the same object in view. Notwithstanding all our oilers and entreaties, we could get none of the men to accompany us. They said, "New Guinea man too bad ; we will not go.'" Thence the party went up the Mai ia^a River and here we made a most

Important Discovery. About 120 miles inland we found twelve large risers standing away to the W. and N.E. They were very line rivers, draining upwards of 100,000 square miles of splendid country. They were all fresh water, from three-quarters to a mile in width. We went up the Mai Kasa River as far as navigation would permit, and so far we had found no sign of natives whatever. Having explored these rivers, taken soundings, "etc., and named them, we determined to return to Saibai for the purpose of recruiting natives to go back with us, our part)' being very weak, to finish exploring the River Sym (called alter the proprietor of the "Age\") At about 4 p.m. on Queen's Birthday A\e were

Attacked by Natives, and had a very narrow escape from being butchered. 1 was at the helm, when Mr Scott, who was on the look out, said he saw something suspicious on our starboard bow. Captain Strachan looked in the direction indicated, and said he could see nothing. Scott then asserted that he was sure he had seen a canoe, and Captain Strachan having got out his glasses, confirmed our worst fears. A few minutes after we saw twentythree large war canoes advancing tow ards us. They were the largest war canoes I have ever seen ; indeed, I believe they are the largest in the world. They must have contained fully 1,200 men, and as they came towards our schooner, the savages sang war songs, brandished their spears, bows, and arrows, and gave horrible yells of defiance. We hove-to our vessel for about five minutes, and considered what was the best thing to do under the circumstances, it was apparent that there was no way of keeping clear of the savages, so we ran amongst them, and kept up a running fire all the time. Finding them too many for us, we put the yes-el round and ran dead before the wind in a S.E. dhection, but the tide being against us, we made very little headway. The native? closed on us fast until we got abreast of the Biown River, which was the tir?t river that we explored. We kept the vessel oft, and ran up the Mai Kasa. The natives followed us until dark, and then they sneaked under the mangroves. We kept up tiring on them until about 7 p.m. At this time we considered our position so critical that we got three bottles', and having written particulais of the expedition so far as possible, we placed them in the bottles, and threw the latter overboard. This was considered our last hope.

Two Canoes Blown Up with Dynamite. Subsequently the natives renewed their attack, and our position was so perilous that we resolved upon a desperate experiment. The medicine-chest was emptied and half-filled with pow der and dynamite. We lit two fuses attached to it, and sent it amongst the savages. The result was terrible. Two or three canoes were blown into the air, and from ninety to one hundred men must have perished. They w ere Daunoga men on the war-path, bound to the eastward. The remainder of the natives continued to follow us under the mangroves, and stayed there for some time. After consultation, we came to the conclusion that the only safe course left for us to pursue was to

Abandon the Schooner. Having tripped our anchor, letting go everything, we got into a small boat, taking with us a little dry oatmeal, our fire-arms, and plenty of ammunition, with the intention of making for the mangroves. At midnight the Foys .sails and helm were lashed with the object of sending her up the river and deceiving our pursuers. Just as we were getting into the boat, Captain Strachan called out to me to "hurry up," and I had no sooner left the schooner than I saw war canoes at our port quarter. I took hold of the shrouds of tho schooner on the starboard fore rigging and pulled the boat ahead, and very soon afterwards the natives got on board of the vessel. Having thus miraculously escaped, we pulled for the mangroves, and having taken our ammunition out of the boat we, sank her so that the natives could not discover where we had landed. We walked for about two hours through low swampy ground in which there were, trees and we lay there until daylight. At 4 a.m. on the 23th of May, we started to walk inland, and continued till 1 p.m., when we got among some heavy cane brakes, where we thought of

Trying to Build a Raft on which to cross the Brown River. Wher searching for timber we found some " camps," and then knew that the natives had been about ; so we struck away to the N.E., and travelled until dusk. That nighi we slept on the plain, and on the nexi morning we started off again, continuing our tramp till about noon. Then we provec lucky in finding two large paper- wood trees, which we cut down. We cut a track and

I dragged them to the Brown River. Having got a piece of bamboo and some wood, we constructed a raft and left it there, intending to return to it at night, as we wore afraid that the nafcivos would see us if we attempted to cross in daylight. About 7 p.m., Captain Strachan said ho thought he hoard voices of natives, bub we could not see anything then. At midnight we crept quiotly down to A\hore we had left the raft, the captain leading the way. When we got there 1 put down my riile and revolver, and took hold of the s?pun-yatn with which 1 had mado tho raft fast in order to pull it amongst tho mangroves so that wo could get on it. As soon as T had put my foot on tho raft it went under tho water, to our great disgust, and we ound that it was no good.

Another Surprise. I put up my hand to call Scott, and at that moment I saw a large canoo full of natives about twenty yards aw ay from us. I drew my revolver and was about to lire, but on second thoughts I decided not to do so. I crept to Captain Strachan, and told him that there was a war canoo quite close to us. He gave orders to get away back to the plain (called the Kerry plain after our informant) at once, and we tiavclled all that night until o a.m. Then w e lay down tor about an hour, rain falling all the time very heavily. On the same day about 3 in the afternoon Captain Strachan felfc tired and we again lay down to rest. Mr Walker told me to keep a look-out toward? the bush, while he would look in the opposite direction, in order to prevent another surprise. We had been there for about twelve minutes, when Mr Walker put up his head and shouted, " Here they come." Almost immediately a shower of arrows fell about our party. A spear struck me on the right foot,|andl was pinned totheground for about half an-hour. The spear w ent clean thiough my boot and foot, and entered the ground Still myself and companions kept on tiring. We found that there were several hundred natives around us, and, thanks to our repeating rifle^, we managed to keep them at bay. It was a terrible alternative, the shooting of the&e wretches, who exhibited groat bravery, but it was our live-; or theirs. "When their number had been very much reduced, tlio remainder ran away. The injmics sustained by our party were confined to my wound. On May 2Sth I suggested to Captain Strachan that we should strike towards the Brown River, and get South, and we did so.

Eating Snails and Grass. For some time before this we had had little or nothing to eat, our principal food being long grass and a small snail which we came across from time to time. There were no cocoanut trees unfortunately, for we made constant search for some, but always without success. Up to this time we had had plenty of water, but \\g came at last to such a state that we were glad to lick the moisture from leaves. We were merely crawling along, lack of nourishment and constant hardships having almost killed the party,, -while my foot was so bad that it was nearly always bleeding, and I had to hop ilong or cra^\ 1 as well a^ I could on the ?ouncl one. We approached the river, and Scott, who the only swimmer, here fell in for a rather daring undertaking ; tve had a large creek to cross. He first \\ ent Dyer himself with a piece of spun-yarn, and by means of it he afterwards pulled the rest of us across.

Swimming a River. Then we found a piece of bamboo,and we :ook it with us. It afterwards proved the saving of our lives. We reached the bunk )f the river, and hero Scott again assisted is across one by one, aided with the support afforded by the bamboo. It was a :evrible tabk, and in oider to overcome it ye had to throw all our rifles and a great leal of ouv ammunition away, also our ournals. I still had part of the spear in ny foot, but it had broken oil" about a foot "rom the point. After cios.-ing the river ny companions cut my boot away from the 'njured loot, and forced the spear through with a bowie knito. It was a great relief, aut caused me terrible agony. I had to iut away a portion of my shirt with which to bind up the wound, md after that we walked four miles luring the night, being «till without : ood ;we had again to sleep on the open plain, with d na^ty S. \V. wind blowing and lain falling heavily, Before daylight we were on the march again, but soon we found that our compass w -i- useless thiough liaving wet. We wbur -ouHi as we thought, but it proved to benoi th-cast. [ti the afternoon the sun came oul blight and strong, md it was then we our mistake. We on our proper course, south, and continued till night, when we slept in the swamp All hands wei c ->till suffering much from \v,mt of food, and at times I drank my awn blood, it being impossible to obtain Dther nouiishment. My foot continued to tiouble me, and two of my toes rotted off, 30 that progress through rough country was extremely painful. That night we again slept on the plain, and made a fresh start at daybreak. Further Signs of Savages. This day we observed that there was a great deal of bark stripped off the trees, and we knew, therefore, that the natives were near. Not being able to face them, after having destroyed our rifles and lost our ammunition, we had to strike further to the north-east again to get out of their track. At a distance we could see their huts and a very heavy beaten track leading into the bubh. After we had travelled about three miles we struck south again, ail the time going over heavy ground. We reached the beach at noon on May 29, about ten miles east of Cussar Island, and it was indeed a welcome sight for us, the whole of us being still in a terribly weak state. We kept on east along the beach, intending to bring due abreast of the island of Saibai, from which we were about 90 miles distant. The coast line being very bad, we were j frequently stuck altogether, and at different j times we wero struggling through mud nearly up to our waists. We had no food from the time we left the plain until the second day on the beach, when we discovered what to us proved a delicious morsel — it was a very small crab, but we tore it to pieces and devoured it greedily. Indeed, we considered

Crabs were a Rare Treat, and there was great joy when, on the same afternoon, another of these tasty morsels fell into our hands. It was even smaller than the fii\st, but, with a few snails, it went to make the best meal we had partaken of for a very long time. We had not had water since leaving the plain, and our tongues were hanging out of our mouths, while our bodies were almost skeletons. Often our position was so critical that some of the party gave up all hopes of getting out of the country alive. Others, however, urged that we should keep on a while longer, and we struggled further along the beach together. Of course, we had to cross a great many rivers, and this we managed by felling trees, at which work every man took his turn. It was awfully hard for men in our condition, but it was our only hope, and we struggled on so long as strength would permit. Next day Mr Walker found a piece of bamboo, and soon after Mr Stuart discovered some wood, and these we carried for a great many miles, with the object of constructing another raft, on which

wo hoped to roach Saibai. On the Sunday morning poor Mr Scott was in a very bad stato, and we shook the trees and obtained a few drops of water for him. 110 waa nearly dead for tho want of it.

Loss of Scott. Wo also got a few snails, and after a very light meal we wont to tho waters, tore up our clothes, and bound together our bamboo and other wood till wo had mado a small raft. We also made a paddle. Alas ! it was found that our frail craft would carry with safety but one person, and it was docvdcd that ono should go on it to Saibai and procuro assistance. # 1 I asked permission to go, but owing to my being Avoundod, Captain Strachan objected, and Mr Scott was orderod to go instead. We all shook hands with him, and expressed hopes that we would meet again. We recognised that the voyage lie was about to undertake was a most perilous ono, but it was our last resort, and had to be risked. Captain Strachan and myself went iip a tree to watch Scott until ho got out of sight. Ho seemed to be paddling very u ell, and made fair progress, so far as 1 can remember. 1 fell asleep up in tho tree from sheer exhaustion. I fancy I saw tho raft coming towards us later on, but I could not say that this was tho case for certain. But if it was so, tho poor fellow must have been killed by the natives before ho reached tho opposite shore. At all ovonts, Scott uas never heard of after, and we all felt his loss very much. He was a nice young fellow, about 23 years of age, single, and a native of Victoria Wo still kept a look-out in case ho should turn up, but no assistance coining on Monday, our worst fears were confirmed. Our position now became almost hopcloss. Food wo had none, water was not to be had at any cost, and clothes we could not boast of— if I excopt a portion of a shirt which I had strapped to my back.

Signals of Distress. At night we lit a lire. This was by no mean? an easy task, for we had no matches We got an old cocoanut husk which we found on an old war camp where the native inhabitants had evidently been killed by the Daruga men, and we then took a little powder and some bark of a tree, and the^e we piled up, and aftor great labour they were ignited by the action of the sun through the glass of our compass. On Tuesday night wo lit a larger lire on the beach, and our signal was answered at accepted at these places as a signal that tho Dai vga men were on the war path. We saw Saibai and Doin almost at once. It was no signs of any assistance coming to us, and on tho following day gave up all hopes of being rescued, for we did not expect to hold out much longer, unless under improved conditions. That night w e made another large fire, and on tho noxt day

Wo Wore Saved. About 3 p.m., when we were lying in the old camp, Mr Walker thought lie saw a canoe. I crawled on my hands and knees to the mangroves, and saw tho boat. At fir?t I believed it to be a war canoe, and we were on the alert to make tracks for the bush. After straining my eyes for some time, I came to the conclusion that the boat was full of friendly natives, so I crawled into the bush, pulled a branch from a tree, and taking from my back all that was left of my shirt, I lashed them together, and after ci aw ling back into the water I held the stick up and waved the rag in the air. The natives at first kept away, thinking that we were the much - dreaded Daruga men, but eventually they saw my white body and bit of red shirt, and recognising that I was a European, they sailed close to me. Some of them jumped overboard and came to us. They welcomed us profusely and gave us yams, tara, and cocoanut, after w hich they as-si.-ted us into their canoe, and took us to Doin. Here we were treated very kindly, and from Doin we proceeded to j\labiac, where there was a white man living. With good treatment, I recovered a little strength, and 1 secured the assistance of S natives, and borrowed a whaleboat, for the purposo of making another

Search for Scott. We cruised around for a long time, but without any success, and v. c had reluctantly to return to Sab.ti, and give up the search as fruitless. There is very little doubt that Suott fell into the hands of the savages, and once in their power, his death would be coitain, so well do I know their ferocious nature. Next morning our party started away from Saibai lor Mabiac in the whaleboat for Captain Brown's station. Heic wo landed that night, having experienced strong S.E. trades, which made the \ oyage a rapid one. We were here treated with every kindness, and remained in good quarters for three days. Captain Brown ? pearl schooner, the Lord Loftus, toolc v.-, on board and conveyed us to Thursday Island. We stayed on the island for eight or ten days, and then took passage by the steamer Duke of Westminster for Cook Town, and thence we proceeded in another steamer to Brisbane, and from there continued our journey to Melbourne. Here ended our eventful voyage, and our party separated, all thankful for their wonderful escapes from so very many dangers, and at the same time determined that we would never, at any cost, go through such dreadful perils, no matter what was the reward held out. I may state that up the coast we bridged four fresh -water rivers and traversed ninety miles, although we have travelled in New Guinea on rivers and land 600 miles. The natives who attacked us and captured our vessel are black Papuans and cannibals of Daruga, who were on a journey cast in search of human victims. I consider that New Guinea is one of the finest countries in tho world, and I can speak from personal experience, having travelled all over the world two or three times. For farming the country cannot be surpassed, and the numerous rivers which we discovered form a regular "railway" into the interior, making means of communication very easy. We encountered more hardships than it is possible to recite in so short a narrative, but still what has already been written will afford a good idea of the character of an exploring expedition into this unknown country. I intend to return to New Guinea again in about two months' time, being convinced that there is yet much valuable information to be obtained respecting the interior of the country. It is estimated that this expedition will cost tho "Melbourne Age" about £2,000, and it goes to show the desire for knowledge of that great but unknown country, New Guinea. It's soil is said to be splendid ; the country is well watered, and vessels are able to gain access to the interior by wide and deep rivers, while cedar and blackwood exist in great quantities, and gold has also been found. Such explorations are not at an end, and we understand that General Mclvor is now inaugurating another expedition, which will be undertaken on a much larger and more complete scale, and should consequently meet with greater success.

The choice of light fabrics is unusually large and varied this season, especially amongst washing materials, euch as fine embroided or printed lawns, the cambrics, the muslins, printed or embroidered like the lawns, and the laces and embroideries pure and simple.