TAWHIAO IN LONDON. THE ADVENTURES OF THE MAORIS IN THE GREAT CITY. [From the Auckland "Star's" London Correspondent.] London, June 19.

Te Aroha News, Volume II, Issue 61, 2 August 1884, Page 3

TAWHIAO IN LONDON. THE ADVENTURES OF THE MAORIS IN THE GREAT CITY. [From the Auckland "Star's" London Correspondent.] London, June 19.

DuiiiNd the past week the interest in the Maori King and his suite has grown apace. From "notable visitors" they have become "distinguished strangers," and when the Prince of Wales returns to Marlborough House, and tho six chieftains are presented toH.R.H., thoy will doubtless tako their places as the legitimate social "lions" of the season of 'S-1. On the Avhole, the party seem to be enjoying themselves fairly well. Though public interest naturally centres principally in Tawhiao, To Wheoro is obviously tho master mind of tho^ mis&ion, and on him devolvo all their business and political responsibilities. Te Tuhi is a merry old soul who loves the pomps and vanities of this a\ icked world, and dearly delights in a ballet, but Topia and Hori are quiet, respectable folk. They eschew theatres, shake their heads at the sad " goings on " of their collcaguos, and recall at frequent intervals tho direful warnings of some N.Z. missionaries (at least I presume they must be missionaries), who seem to have done their level best to frighten tho Maoris against attending stage-plays and enjoying many other innocent recreations. Mr Chesson, I regret to find, is also against our visitors going to the theatres ; indeed, but for the sound common senso displayed by Skidmoro and Te Wheoro, the amusements of the chieftains would have been confined almost wholly to shopping with an agreeable alternative in tho shapo of church twice a day. Tho front-door bell at 13, Montaguo Place, is, 1 need scarcely say, kept pretty hard at work. Apart from tho legitimate visitors, (whose names shall bo recounted presently), all sorts of people call — many of them on errands of a most outrageous character. .Dog fancier?, for somo roason or another, arc especially pressing with their attentions, as also are tho would-be emigrants who "admire and respect" Tawhiao directly thoy bee him, and feel sure that if ho would only pay their passages out to New Zealand he would (N. 13. : This part of tho business ih always exceedingly ambiguous) "never regret doing so." Tho natives have behaved surprisingly well in declining to be tempted by tradesmen anxious to make use of them as an advertisement. Again and again the party could have obtained clothes and eatables, not to mention soaps, scents, and quack medicines innumerable gratis, if they would have acceded to certain terms, but on each occasion Major Te Wheoro has sternly negatived Iho proposition. When they go out all together tho Maories are accompanied either by Mr Chesson (of the Aborigines Protection Society), Mr John Chester (a banister of somo repute in London, and a cousin of Mrs Saintsbury, the cludclahw at Montaguo Place), or Mr Edwin Preston (of the Australasian Press Agency). There are generally ono or two reporters hanging about, and these Tawhiao simply loathes ; indeed, if you -wish to sco him angry, you have only to hint at the immediate contiguity of a ncAvspapcr man. One small trial of tho monarch's life at present is, I firmly believe, the continual presence of a smart shoithand reporter from the " Central News," who has been chartered by the " New Zealand Herald" to " do" the King's visit for them, and boasts that he can "spin out" three columns per diem from " less than nothing." This gentleman is a very good fellow— active, energetic, and a fair specimen of his class— but will keep his note-book for ever open, and a small stump of black-lead pencil in his hand ; and he icill devour every veibal morsel that falls from Tawhiao's lips As a consequence, His Majesty flies now directly ho catches sight of him." Away the pair go— Tawhiao first, with Mr Reporter after him. Tho King's legs are long, and he can -walk (as I know by experience) at a rare pace, but the pressman is indefatigable. They seldom keep far apart. Since my last lef lor I have dotted down a sort of daily remme of the doings of the Maoris in London. It will not, 1 fear, be quite as voluminous a record as that of my " Central News " friend, but we flatter ourselves we have not missed much, and too big a dose of native mixture all at once might pall. The London papers teem with notices of the Maoris' visit and pictures of the King, To Tuhi, and Te Wheoro. Most of the former arc purely descriptive and biographical, but in "Truth," "Funny Folks," "Punch," and ono or two other journals the subject is treated from a novel standpoint. These articles I have clipped and send you.

Tawhiao at the Alhambra. Te Tuhis account of all ho had scon at the Alhambra on June 6th inflamed Tawhiao's curiosity to such an extent that, on tho following night, His Majesty, Major Te Wheoro, Te Tula, and Skidraoro, escorted by Mr John Chester and Mr Edwin Preston, again visited the great house in Leicester Square. The party were met in the entrance hall by the manager, Mr William Holland, and conducted to tho royal box, where they (to quote the " Morning Post ") " at once bocamo tho cynosure of every eye." Between the acts the Maoris went behind the scenes, and More initiated into tho mysteries of scene-shifting, lime-light, etc. The corin cle ballet crowded round tho party in tho famous green-room under the stage, and To Tuhi introduced Tawhiao to the fair but flimsy damsel to whom he had lost his heart on the previous evening. Tawhiao has a fine eye for female beauty. After the novelty of tho situation wore off, he grew quite excited at the sight of so much loveliness, and passed a number of compliments to the ladies which it is to be feared Mr Skidmoro did not translate quite literally. Before starting out that evening M r Chester had resolved to go on to Haverly's Minstrels at the end of the first act of the " Beggar Student," but Tawhiao declined to leave the Alhambra. After the performance the party adjourned to the Savage Club for supper. Most of tho members had gone, but those who remained exercised themselves to amuse the Maoris with songs and music. The King showed in great form, executing a pas sent in imitation of Mdlle. Pertholde. He further informed the astounded "savages" that he had seen ballets in Auckland very like those at the Alhambra. The party left the Club at 1 a.m., after signing their names in the visitors' book.

The Maoris at the Mansion House. On Saturday morning Tawhiao was very unwell. His eyes were much inflamed, and he complained of rheumatic pains in his limbs. Tho Maoris wero asked to lunch at i the Mansion House to meet the Lord Mayor , and a number of members of the Aborigines Protection Society, but the medical man summoned to attend His Majesty advised , him to stay indoors, so Major Te Wheoro headed the party. The meeting was ■ strictly private, but I learned that i after lunch Mr Alexander McArthur, M,P,, proposed, and Mr Q, Palmer, M.P.,

seconded, that when the Maoris' memorial was ready for presentation they would ask Lord Derby to grant an interview to the chieftains. At the close of the proceedings Te Wheoro thanked the Lord Mayor in a few really uncommonly well - chosen sentences for the kind and hospitable manner in which lie had received them at the Mansion House. The following members of the Committee were present : — Sir Joseph Peace (M.P.), Mr Dillwyn (M.P.), Mr A. McArthur (M.P.), Mr G. Palmer (M.P.), and Mr F. W. Chesson. Mr John Chester also attended.

At St. Paul's Cathedral. On Sunday Tawhiao was still too unwell for it to bo advisable for him to stir out. The rest of the party attended service at Sb. Paul's Cathedral, escorted by Messrs Chesson and Preston. The Maoris were evidently greatly struck with tho fringing of the choir" in which there are now some really soul-moving boys' voices. Tho anthem "Oh Trinity, Oh Unity," happened to be a specially fine one, and at the end poor old Topia murmured some semi-audible exclamations of delight. After the long prayers, during which our visitors had much ado to keep their eyes open, it was genorally thought Mr Chesson would move out with the worshippers avlio leavo before tho sermon. Not at all. He resolved tostay till thcend,andthe Maoris, no doubt, derived much benefit from tho discourse ot Mr Prebendary Whittington, who preached for 35 minutes. Topia, Hori, and Te Tuhi (like many other persons present) slumbered placidly most of the time, and awoke up refreshed, but tho Major and Skidmore listened attentively.

A Royal Gift. On their return to Montague Place, Mr Chesson vi&ited TaA\ hiao, and was closeted with him (Skido, ore interpreting) for some time. During the interview, the King presented the Secretary of the Aborigines Protection Society Avith a superb piece of greenstone, the size and shape ot a good large ivory paper knife, alh,o two splendid mats worth a considerable sum. Mr Chesson thanked him appropriately, and pioraised to do all that lay in his power to further tho petition to Loid Derby.

Walking in the Zoo. On Monday morning Tawhiao was pronounced convalescent, and shortly alter breakfast went out shopping with the Maior. Thou hole party delight in shopping. Lett to themselves they would patter ab>aut in Oxford-street b'jying now this, now that, all day long. As it i^ they must be .spending oceans of money ; indeed, I sometimes wonder whether the common purse will hold out. About noon Mr Gor&t, Q.C., M.P., called, but only saw Skidmorc. Jlc assured the Maoris through him of his earnest desire to help them, and left an invitation for the chieftains to visit the House of Commons. Mr Gorst had scarcely gone before Mr A. W. U.. Fennessy, an old Waikato pettier, and a great friend of Skiclmore's and the Maoris, called. When the latter came home to lunch they ucre wild with delight at seeing him, and greeted the old fellow most cordially. In the afternoon, Mr Fennessy took To Tuhi to the Zoological Gardens, and at night they all went to Drury Lane to hear Haverley's Minstrels. The latter did not seem to interest any of the party greatly, but Te Tula's account of the wonders to bo seen at the Zoo. determined Tawhiao to go theie shoitly. In the course of Monday, Major Te Wheoro wrote to Sir F. D. Bell, requesting an interview. He also resolved to lefusc the kind invitaion of Mi Hopkins (a friend of Mr Chester's), who ollered to drive the King and his friends down to A&cot on Cup day. It was a splendid opportunity to see Windbor Park and all the glories of Ascot under exceptionally favoiuable circumstances. 1 was disappointed at their refusal. Mr Hopkins has a smait drag and four splendid chestnuts, and the drive from Windsor to Ascot is one of the most beautiful in England. An appointment with Mr Chesson, which To Wheoro didn't wish to break, interfered with the expedition.

Miss Weale's Prayers. In the course of Monday, Tawhiao overcanio his pronounced objections to newspaper men so far ay to permit the artist of the "Illustrated London News" to transcribe hih lineaments and those of some of the other chiefs for that journal, lie also had an interview with Mr Latey (on the literary staff of the simo paper), the results of which will be found in the issue of the 14th instant. The "Graphic" subsequently succeeded in securing similar favours t and the "Penny Illustrated" reproduced the well-known photo of Tawhiao, TeTuhi, and To Wheoro. The Maoris were rather perplexed on Monday morning by tho receipt of a fer-vently-worded epistle from Miss Weale, the lady who did so much for Sidney Taiwhanga and his friends when they came over in 'SI. Miss Wealo expressed herself deeply interested in the sphitual welfaic of the chieftains, and assured them they "had her prayers daily " She reminded Touhiao of his promise to visit her, and remained "their affectionate sister in Christ." The letter, of course, was much longer than this, but you will bo able to guess the sort of wording that ran throughout. Poor Skidmore hadn't the ghost of a notion how to reply. According to his own account, ho has as much re&pect for sacred things as anybody, but never could stand that "religious patter." The services of a young gentleman present were consequently requisitioned. He suggested delicately ignoring Miss Weale's spiritual queries, and presently framed a reply, in Mhich the Maoris, without committing themselves to the statement that they mentioned Miss W.'s name in their diurnal devotions, thanked her for remembering theirs, and expressed great pleasure at the prospect of meeting such a faithful friend of the Maori race.

The Agent-General at Montague Place. On Tuesday (Juno 10) the Major and Skidmore started out immediately after breakfast for Chcsson's office, where they waited three hours. Chesson meanwhile was at Montague Place. He found the Agent-General there, come to pay a courtesy call on Tawhiao. Sir Francis could not, of course, recognise His Majesty officially, indeed ho is practically certain to represent tho opposition to the chief's petition. Nevertheless the King greeted him warmly, and tho pair enjoyed a long talk in Maori, the drift of which (in Skidmore's absence) nono of us could discover. Finding tho Major and Skidmoro did not return, Mr Chesson went to his office after them, and they thero discussed the petition. Ho then took them across to Westminister Abbey. Service happened to be going on, so thoy stayed for it (Mr Chesson is a great man for church), and afterwards strolled across to Westminster Palace, and made a hurried inspection of the Houso of Commons. That afternoon Te Tuhi conducted Tawhiao to the Zoological Gardens. His Majesty enjoyed himself greatly. The lions, soals, and elephants were the great points of attraction. The two Maoris bestrode "Alice" (relict of Jumbo), and appreciated the rido fully as much as ordinary children do. On their return home, Tawhiao (who would be a great hand at private theatricals were his station less exalted) gavo grotesque imitations of the seals and monkeys. In the evening the King, Te Tuhi, and Te Wneoro once again patronised tho Alhambr^ going quite by themselves,

As before, they were shown at once into the Royal box, and most hospitably entertained, the question of payment never being even mooted. „..,.. . „ . Old Hori and Topia had (owing to their strange scruples) been left rather out in the cold latterly, so on Tuesday afternoon Mr Preston invited them to go shopping with him, that evidently being tho ultima thule of their desires. Topia, it soon transpired, was pining for tho sensuous luxury of putting his bristly pate in a silver - plated basin, and having it shampooed. At first he evidently doubted the morality of the process, but on his guide, philosopher, and friend submitting calmly to it, he threw his scruples to the winds and plunged recklessly into the seething dissipation of an adjacent Toilet Club. Hori remained steadfast, and, I believe, in the depths of his heart looks on his friend as a fallen angel. Theso two chiefs, good men though they unquestionably appear to be, arc a striking example of the way superstition works on ignorance.

At Madame Tussand's. On Wednesday morning Captain Stratton Bales, an officer who had fought through the Waikato War, came to "smoke the pipe of peace " with Tawhiao, and introduce his two fair daughters to that monarch. The ladies brought offerings in the shape of a bouquet of hot-house flowers (which the King wore in his bosom throughout the day), and a box of Parisian bonbons, which he ate up on the ppot. The Major and Skidmore again had a consultation with Chesson, and in the afternoon tho wholo party once more went to the Zoo. At night Skidmore, To Tuhi, the King, and Mr Preston paid a visit to the famous waxworks of Madame Tussand. Here a somewhat ludicrous incident occurred. At the top of the stairs the Maoris caught sight of the figures, and could, with difficulty, be persuaded that they were wax, and that it was safe to move on. This objection had barely been overcome, and we wero strolling slowly forward, when Tawhiao (who always walks firs') rounded a corner, and found himself facxl with a formidable group representing Cetewayo in his war paint, surrounded by several of his wives, and some Zulu warriors armed to the teeth. Tho King got one glimpse of this—just one—then he turned, and giving forth a gutteral yell of a literally blood-curdling character, iled precipitately. We ran after him, and Skidmore explained the figures were only wax like the rcht. The old man's nerves had, however, received a nasty jar, and it took time to calm him down. Once this w;ts done, however, all went well. The Maoris highly appreciated the realism of the hhow, and examined every rigurc closely. Cetcwayo's story was recounted, and we all tried tho s< ats of Napoleon's State carriage. On the a\ hole, I am inclined to think that, notwithstanding the scare, Tawhiao enjoyed the waxworks as much as anything ho has "seen.

At tlio House of Commons. On Thursday the Maoris went in state to return Sir F. D Bell's call. They stayed at Victoria Chambers an hour, but Mr Kennaway informs mo that the conversation throughout was of a purely social character. Afterwards the party met Mr Chcs.-on and Mr Clorst, uho showed them over the Houses of Lords and Common?, and pointed out the many conveniences of the splendid palace at Westminster. To Wheoro seemed greatly struck with the latter, the countless spacious committee rooms more especially exciting his admiration. At four o'clock, when Mr Speaker took the chair, Tauhiao and his chieftains m ere accommodated with seats in the distinguished strangers' gallery, to which several M.IVs came in order to obtain introductions. The debate (on the eniranchisement of women) was only fairly interesting, and I fear the Maoris had but a dull time. Tawhiao fell fast asleep, so, alas ' did two of the others, and no man ever looked more relieved than To "Wheoro did when Mr Chesson (tired out himself) said they might go. After the decorous dulness of the British House of Commons, Tawhiao felt he needed some relaxation, so their hurried dinner despatched, the Maoris adjourned to the Empire Theatre and witnessed the gorgeous spectacle of " Chilperic." Here, as at the Alhambra, the splendid processions and frequent ballets were very much to the taste of Te Tuhi and Tawhiao. The King proved especially gracious, even going so far as to throw a bouquet to the premiere dansevse, Fraulien JHofschulclr, a courtesy which the audience rewarded with loud applause. Supper at the Savage Club wound up an eventful day.

A Quiet Day. OnFiidaythe Maoris were rather tired after the fatigues of the previous evening, and stayed most of the day at home, smoking and playing at dominoes in the tents which tho chatelaine of 13, Montague Place, has had erected for them in the small garden at the back of the house. They would be very happy here but for the unconscionable curiosity of the neighbours, ■ssho are always on the look-out for their advent, and even go so far as to spy at them through opera glasses. During the day, Tawhiao was visited by the Rev. F. Spencer (a Maori missionary), and by Mr Driver, of Spuvgeon's Tabernacle. The latter persuaded the Maoris to attend worship at the Tabernacle on Sunday morning, and left tickets of admission. Mr Hilton, of the National Temperance Society (whose brother, by the way, is a publican), called to ask the Maoris to attend the great Temperance Fe*fce at tho Crystal Palace on July 4th. We none of us liked the look of Mill., nor did we think the Maoris would enjoy themselves, so we persuaded Skidmoro to leave the matter in abeyance. On Friday evening the chieftains (who enjoy great theatrical spectacles more than anything) onco more visited the Empire j Theatre.

At Mr Spurgeon's. On Saturday Tawhiao and his whole party lunched with Mr Chesson, of the Aborigines Protection Society. Skidmore was told not to let the reporters know about this, though why he wished the circumstance kept private none of us can conceive. On Sunday Tawhiao's eyes — which invariably become bad whenever thero is a religious servico in prospect — were so much inflamed that he couldn't go to the Tabernacle to hear Mr Spurgeon. All the rest of tho party, however, went, and were accommodated with seats in the front of the gallery. They thought the service very long and very uninteresting ; in fact, not to bo compared with what they had heard at Westminster and St. Paul's. Old To Tuhis disgust was complete when the "collection plote," which always plays a prominent part in Tabernacle services, came round. He had " left his purse on the piano " at Montague Place, and could only reward the gentleman who so gracefully shoved it under his sable countenance with a benign smile. Te Tuhi, being much tattooed, always plays the part of king during his rightful monarch's absence. He shook hands with about 200 persons in this character at the closo of the Tabernacle service, Te "Wheoro standing modestly in tho background, i must not forget to mention that Mr Spurgeon preached an admirable sermon,

He received the MaoM^^^^^^^^^H a few minutes afterwards, aW^^J^^^^M kindly speeches to them, but I coukW^BH was still too exaltee with the subject cf Tffll eloquent discourse to be greatly interested. An enormous crowd of East End roughs, numbering 10,000 people belonging to tho very poorest classes, assembled outside the Tabernacle to watch the Maoris come out. The latter didn't at all like facing the populace even when pioneered by a strong body of police, so we slipped through one of the side doors and got them into a cab and safely off before anybody knew. Two unfortunate Roumanians in native costume, who happened to be amongst the congregation, got horribly mauled by the mob. They mistook them for Maoris, and would have kept them there all day but for the police. Eventually it took six constables to clear a lane for their cab. On Sunday afternoon the Maoris were invited to attend the Lord Mayor's service at St. Paul's, but only Te Tuhi felt inclined to go. Mr Chester accompanied him, and they had tea afterwards with Canon Gregory.^

Teaching Tawhiao to Waltz. On Monday Tawhiao had a bona fide attack of rheumatism and stayed at home. The Major, Hori and Topia, however, went out shopping with the representative of the New Zealand " Herald." He took them by the Underground Railway from Victoria to the Mansion. They seemed slightly nervous at first, but soon cooled down, and eventuslly noted this mode of travelling dark and stuffy. In the afternoon the Major and Skidinore paid another visit to Chesson about the everlasting petition. That evening Mrs St. Bury asked some friends to drop in at Montague Placo, and dancing and singing were indulged in. The ladies tried to teach the Maoris to waltz, but w ore not very successful. Tawhiao's limbs proved too stiff, and the others merely tumbled about. The Maoris dearly love to hear anyone play on the piano, and simply revel in street-organs. The Major talks of bringing one to take home for his little girl. Tawhiao never allows a street show to pass Montague Place unrewarded. Yesterday two Scotchmen came there, oneof them blowing the bagpipes whilst the other executed a sword dance. Directly they began to perform the King rushed to the front door and commenced gesticulating on the steps, to the horror of Mrs St. Bury, who dragged the volatile monarch indoors by the Koyal coat tails.

At the Military Tournament. On Tuesday poor Tawhiao was still too unwell to go out. The Major and Mr Preston spent the morning hunting for a tailor's shop at which the former had left a deposit of £3 for some clothes he had ordered. They went into about twenty establishments, but couldn't discover the right one. Poor Te Wlieoro is in despair about it. This proceeding is symbolic of the Maori method of shopping. Each man patronises a different tailor. He visits six or seven before he finally settles upon one. If he loses the card given him by the tradesman helixes upon, he is a "gone coon," can't remember where the shop is, or even what he ordered there. In the afternoon the Major and Skid more once more visited Chepson, but the others went with Mr Edwin Preston, who (as one of the representatives of the New Zealand evening papers) procured a large box for them at the Grand Military Tournament at the Agricultural Hall. They were all delighted with this wonderful .sight, the evolutions of the horses striking them as specially clever. The mere drill portion, however, none of them seemed to care for. Asked why, they said they had seen enough, and more than enough, of British soldiers during the New Zealand wars.

Fireworks at the Crystal Palace. Tho Maoris were invited to attend the annual conversazione of the Colonial Institute this (Thursday) evening, but they preferred to accept an invitation to see tho fire-n orks at the Crystal Palace. The directors of the latter place of entertainment have been very pressing. They are putting a special train at the Maoris' disposal, and intend to show them over the Exhibition themselves. The party are to dine in the Prince of Wales's retix ing-room, and drive in the grounds afterwards. The display of firewoiks promises to be the finest this season. A feature of the show will be a fiery portrait of Tawhiao himself, which the monarch will set alight by touching an electric bell. To-night's "Globe" contains an interesting article entitled "The Maori King and Fireworks," which I send you. On Tuesday night and all clay yesterday the Maoris stayed quittly at home. The King doesn't seem well. He is sleepy and rheumatic,and won't stir away from the fire if he can help it. They hadn't many visitors yesterday. Captain Ashby (of W. Ashby & Co.) called, and was warmly welcomed by Major Te Wheoro, whom he had met in the Waikato. I believe, too, another New Zealander was there, but nobody seems to know who he was. This morning we introduced Mr Charles Morley, of the "Pall Mall Gazette" to Tawhiao. You shall have the result of the interview next week.

Incidents of the Maoris' Visit. Mrs McDonald (a lady of the Mrs Leo Hunter genus) has persuaded the Maoris to attend a garden party at her cottage in the classic shades of Clapham, in order to^ hear a paper read on " Evolution Scientifically Treated." There will be a discussian subsequently, also "tea and fruit." Mrs McDonald tried to draw Te Wheoro first with " Art in Italy," but this failing, she baited her hook with "Evolution Scientifically Treated." What resolved Te Wheoro to accept such an invitation for the King and them all, none of us can concieve. I When the weather turns cold, Tawhiao costumes himself in white cricketing clothes. On hot days, cm contraire, he often wears an ulster. Mrs St. Bury, tho chatelaine— nob to say landlady of Demetre llouse— has taken full possession of the Maoris, and only allows them to see people of whom she approves. She is a masterful little woman, pleasant to talk to, and blessed with a fair allowance of common sense. The Maoris get plenty of plain good food at her place, and seem to be capitally looked after. To begin with, Mrs St. B. appeared inclined to make a dead-set at the pressmen who hang about Tawhiao so persistently, but she has now grown to look on them as a necessary evil. Tawhiao has presented Mr GorsL, M.P., with a magnificent war spear. MrChesson was much exercised -when ho found that the papers had mixed up his namo and Mr John Chester's, and stated that the Maoris were accompanied on their visits to the Alhambra by tho staid Secretary of the Aborigines Protection Society. He absolutely wrote to the " Daily News " denying it.

A contemporary deplores the fact that public opinion cannot yet understand that to incite expenditure is to enforce an increase of taxation. It is very desirable to be a good reader. A clergyman is said to have once read the following passage from the Bible, with the emphasis thus: "And the old man said unto his song, saddle me, the ass ; and tneg saddled him 1"