A COLUMN FOR WOMEN.

Taihape Daily Times, Volume 7, Issue 79, 2 December 1914, Page 2

A COLUMN FOR WOMEN.

During the past live or six years | the tunic has endured many changes. ; We have had it short to the hip, and have called it a basque. We have wcru it long on one aide and very much curtailed cn the other. It has been seen knee-length and very full, and, when perfectly plain, it has ex- j tended to the ankles; and. also, we i have had draped tunics, spiral funics, j and pointed ones as well. Now they j may be either plain or full at the hips, but, at the same time, they are not the thing unless they are ankle length, and well flared at the hem (says a writer in the Melbourne Argus). In fact, the tunic cf the hour is pretty well the same as the “ over-dress ” cf about eight years ago, only the foundation on which it is mounted is exceedingly narrow at foot; whereas the overdress which was the feature of a ball dress more than a walking one was usually set on a silk slip, which was gored until it was at least four yards round at foot. The newest way for a long tunic is to arrange a swathing around the hips to about eight or ten inches below the waist-line, and the tunic falls from under this. This style is really very smart and becoming to anyone, whose hips do net exceed 40in, but those who measure more look better with the straight unbroken line from the waist. Whether a tunic should open up the front or net is optional as long as the edges are brought close together. The home dressmaker had best consult her own convenience as to whether she can mala; a placket neat enough for the front. If not, it had better be arranged in the fullness at the centre of the back. The fact that there is a little fullness at the back is a point worth noticing, for we have had a long period of fiat panels, and bread seams, and now we are back to a slight easement, which saves a deal of meticulous adjustment. On ! linen or serge skirts much attention has been given to the method of bringing the back width up with its row of gathers for about Sin above the waist belt and then finishing eff with a short belt in pretty veil the same way as a tailor arranges the

waist cf L ’-pair cf i.ronscAy;. The rest of the skirt is turned in neatly, and so the necessity for a belt is obviated.

What is a striking feature to all is the prevalence cf black and white in all the leading houses, whether it In in millinery, frocks, furs, tea gowns, blouses, etc., writes the London cor-

respondent cf the Sydney Telegraph. Alas, it is a foregone conclusion in this dreadful war time in at black will predominate, but to the credit of Englishwomen, who arc grieving silently for the less of their nearest and dearest who have fallen in the front in defence of their king and country, I must say that their morning- garb is so unostentatious that the most sensitive could net suffer from seeing It. Under a simple coat and skirt costume of black serge, or crepe de chine, cue knows wives mothers,, and sisters’ hearts are breaking w itti silent grief, but there is a bravery even in their attire that is inspiring. No loading of crepe; they are taking their share of Britain’s anxiety with the spirit and true grit worthy of women of their race. Many women no doubt influenced by the anxious time and sad atmosphere around, are ordering black gowns; these with black velvet or beaver bats, large and small, and black furs, will be general wear, I think, for the coming season. There is an occasional touch cf white introduced, perhaps a white mount in the velvet hat of sailor persuasion', or close jaunty toque, or folds of white silken net to relieve the sombre effect on a gown; or, again, the very popular fine white muslin collar upstanding, which is so becoming;. Even our furs are black, or white, or a combination of the two.

From time immemorial the French women have been held up to the rest of the world as an arbiter of elegance, and an example of good taste in dress. Slowly, but surety, her English and incidentally her Australasian sisters have been following her example in the cultivation of daintiness 'and “chic.” It is in her home that the French woman excels in daintiness of apparel. She never dreams of garbing herself in her walking dress in the morning, but wears a peignoir (morning gown) while occupying herself with household matters, and changes when it is time to go out to the. promenade or shops. Then in the ’afternoon tfshe wears the most delightful rest or tea gowns, the latter usually matching or toning with tlie furniture or hangings in the room. It is only lately, however, that the “peignoir” and rest gown has generally found favour in England. At one time a matinee jacket or anything of life pattern was used solely for bedroom or boudoir. But nowadays it is quite the mode to appear at breakfast, in a dainty confection of the same type, and later at tea hour in an equally flowing affair, or, indeed, at any time •of the day when rest and comfort is desired. In the hot weather especially a loosely-fitting muslin gown is far cooler to wear about the house than • more elaborate full dress.