TREE PRUNING

Sun (Auckland), Volume IV, Issue 1070, 6 September 1930, Page 28

TREE PRUNING

A yearly pruning is necessary for all fruit trees. Young trees when planted should bo cut back to three or four limbs-on the trunk, and the central lead, if not already removed by the nurseryman, should be cut out. Select three or four of the strongest branches, close together; it will be from these branches that the future head of the tree will be obtained. The next year the pruning will take the form of shortening the growth on these branches and at the same time giving S tho tree its form. All wood in the | centre of the tree should be cut out, j so that the light and air might enter.

The cutting back of the long leads encourages root growth.

In cutting, always cut to au eye pointing outward. Don't cut too close, nor, for that matter, too far; about a quarter of an inch distant is far enough. Give the cut a slant. The first two or three years all spur wood should be removed and your whole attention given to forming a low, wellshaped spreading tree. APRICOTS AND PLUMS.—These fruit on spurs on two-year-old wood. When the tree is in bearing cut these spurs back to two or three sets of buds. This helps to make the fruit bigger and better and at the same time prevents the limbs from breaking under a heavy crop. Apricots and

plums make very heavy growth and should be as lightly pruned as possible. All the tall growths should be well shortened each year, but as many fruiting spurs as possible allowed to remain. After the first four 3'ears or so the trees will need no further attention as to shape, but will only require the tall growths to be shortened and the fruiting spurs to be trimmed. PEARS AND APPLES.—Top the tall growths back into the trees and thin out the branches which are growing inward. After attaining full growth these fruits need little attention other than this. The fruit spurs should not be touched except to remove dead ones, as they seldom attain any length.

PEACHES AND NECTARINES.— These trees, unlike the former, fruit

on yearling wood, and so a different method of pruning must be followed. Here we have to remove the old wood to encourage the growth of new. Always cut close to buds on terminals and it limbs are to be removed do not leave much heal to be covered with bark. Pruning of these trees should bo completed before the end of July. CITRUS TREES require different handling. At planting time all young trees should be cut back to force lateral growth and the second year these should be pruned or trimmed

with an eye to shapeliness. You will find that an established tree carried up to SO per cent, on its middle and lower branches, and so prune to encourage this lower growth by checking the top growth. After pruning burn all clippings, leaves, etc., to get rid of pests. SPRAY AFTER PRUNING.—After pruning it is a good ideaf to give a thorough spraying so as to remove all parasites. See that the spray is forced under the bark ou the stem and iu the joints. The best sprays are bordeaux mixture for fungus pests, or lime sulphur or washing soda for the wax scale, and an oil spray for other scales. But do not use a spray at a greater strength than that given on the container or you are asking for trouble.