“SUN” SERVICE STATION

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 918, 11 March 1930, Page 6

“SUN” SERVICE STATION

THE “Motordom" section of The Sun includes in its service to readers a Queries and Answers Department, the object of which 1s to give accurate information regarding mechanical and touring subjects. Whatever the particular puzzle may be in either diagnosing irritating troubles or motoring information of any kind. ‘‘Headlight’' will endeavour to help, or refer the point to men who are recognised automobile experts in tbeir respective lines. All communications must be accompanied oy the inquirer's name and address (not for publication), and sent to THE) SUN “Service Station, Motordom.” THE SUN Auckland. Answers will appear weekly in this column.

“Alex.” —Would you kindly answer the following questions: (1) On one of the back wheels of my Essex car the grease is coming through from the differential on to the brake. Someone told me that it wanted a new felt washer. What is the matter, and howcan it be remedied? (2) The tread of my two front tyres is wearing more on the inside. How can it be adjusted? * * * (1) The felt washer, which is fitted to prevent oil leaking into the brake-drums, usually is chewed up by end-play of the axle. Remove the wheel and the retaining plate, and you will see it. Feel the amount of end-play in the axle (the amount it slides in and out), and subtract some of the washers or shims fitted behind the retaining plate, so that this end-play will be prevented. Fit a new felt washer, and replace the plate, minus the shims. First dismantle the brake shoes, after numbering them so that you can replace them correctly. Soak the shoes in petrol, and burn the oil out of the brake linings. It may need a couple of soakings to soften the oil embedded in sufficiently to make it burn. (2) The amount of “toe-in” of your front wheels is incorrect. Have it measured and adjusted. * A.M.T. —Per medium of the “S.S.S.” of The Sun, could you tell me how to stop the front wheels of an ArmstrongSiddeley car from “jazzing” along the road? When doing a speed of 25 to 30 miles an hour, they wobble in snake fashion. I shall await anxiously your reply. * * * Front-wheel wobble can arise from so many causes that it is dangerous to generalise. Some of them are flat springs altering the castor action (wedges beneath the springs will remedy this); unbalanced wheels; general looseness of steering connections and king-pins; a kink in the front axle; a bad driving habit of bumping the kerb when parking; wrong amount of “toe-in” of the front* wheels; and sf> on. The difficulty is to discover the exact cause. ‘•Ponsonby.”—(l) Would you advise me if there are any agents for Davis motor-launch, engines in Auckland? (.2)

Would an ordinary motor-car watercircufating pump be suitable for a single-cylinder marine engine? (3) Would a Ford coil be suitable for launch work. (1) The Davis engine is not included in any list of motors. Are you sure this is the correct name? (2) A motor-car pump is suitable for a boat engine if there are no brass and iron or steel parts touching in contact with sea water. This sets up a galvanic action, which rapidly deteriorates the iron. It will be necessary to run the pump slower than when on a car, as the flow of water through a boat engine does not require to be so rapid owing to the supply always being cold. (3) Ford coils are quite suitable for boat use if they are kept quite dry. P.J.H. —I am a constant reader of your motoring section, and would like to ask you a question. I have a Chevrolet truck, 1927 model, and I am having a lot of trouble with the vacuum tank. The trouble is that it will not draw the petrol from the main tank into the vacuum tank. All my pipes are good and clean, the valve is all right and clean, the joints are good. The engine has a good suction; it will draw the petrol while stationary, but while travelling it will not. I have to fill the vacuum tank up every few miles. I have tried everything, and would be much obliged if you could explain the trouble.There are several possible reasons, but in the opinion of an experienced engineer, the cause is a faulty gasket at the top of the vacuum tank. If this gasket fits badly, or is not a complete seal, it will nullify the vacuum when the motor is turning over quickly, but would not affect the slow running. To test it, keep the car stationary and rev. the motor vigorously for some time. If it repeats the symptoms of failure, you get while travelling, fit a new gasket. Other but less likely causes are: The guide pin of the vacuum float tank may stick, and prevent the float from moving. It should be free in its guide. The baffles in the main tank may have come loose, which would interfere with a continuous petrol supply if the fuel supply was low.