THE GARDEN

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 862, 4 January 1930, Page 24

THE GARDEN

By

LEONARD A. GRIFFITHS, F.R.H.S.,

May your Act c Year be a prosperous one. And your garden a joy.’’

CARNATIONS

METHODS OF CULTIVATION Kind Treatment Pays.—Soma flowering plants that are termed hardy respond readily to kindly treatment, and produce a superior quality bloom than when they had received no special attention. For example, if carnations are placed in a damp situation the result would be evidenced by a refusal of the plants to thrive, and no amount of feeding and cultivating would induce them to grow successfully. But put them in a welldrained situation, with half the attention the result will give satisfaction. Leaf Soil for Carnations.—Carnations will grow in almost any kind of well-drained soil, but they flourish best in their own particular composite —light sar.dy loam. The addition of leaf soil will be found beneficial when preparing a bed for carnations, especially in heavy stiff soil. If possible, select an open situation for tho carnation beds, sheltered from, the westerly winds by some natural or artificial screen. Narrow Beds the Best. —The beds for convenience should be narrow, with a path between each. The rows in each bed will be sufficient, so that each plant may get attention without walking over the soil. Space the plants about 18 inches apart, and the rows two feet to two feet six inches, for preference running north and south, so that the sun shines on each plant during some part of the day. Carnations from Seed.—Though many beautiful specimens may be raised from seed selected from good quality blooms, there is a great amount of uncertainty about the result of seedlings. Carnations may be propagated by cuttings, layerings or seed. The cuttings and layerings are mostly used in raising the good quality named varieties. Making the Cuttings.—Select the most vigorous growing shoots, strip them from the main stalk, and trim the leaves to where the cutting is placed in the soil, and press in firmly. Sand is generally used for a topdressing, as it materially helps in preventing the plants from damping off, and settles them in the soil. The cuttings should be about four inches in length, and placed in the ground to a depth of two and a-half to three inches. The average time taken in rooting is about six weeks, when it will be found that sufficient fibre roots have been made to allow of the plants being safely transplanted Into their permanent quarters. Layering Method for Carnations.— The layering is a simple process by covering the old plants around the base with some suitable light soil iu which the plants will root readily. In layering, make an upward cut from one joint to another forming a tongue. The branch should then be pinned or pegged down and covered with soil. They will soon throw out roots from the joint, and may be cut

free from the parent plant and transplanted where required. VALUE OF LIME Any of the animal manures are valuable if well decayed and useful in the preparation of carnation plots. Lime is most important, especially in stiff soils, hut must not be applied at the same time as manure. Allow 14 days to elapse before manuring after a dressing of lime has been given. SPRAYING TO COMBAT DISEASES Though a fairly hardy plant, the carnation has numerous enemies in the shape of pests and diseases. Aphis often attack the young spring growth and do much damage if not kept in check. A spraying with some of the preparations for the destruction of these garden pests will overcome that difficulty. WATCH THE MEALY BUG If the plants at any time appear to he distressed and wilting, make an inspection and you will probably fiud the roots attacked by Mealy bug. Special preparations are on sale for dealing with this pest. A simple and effective remedy is a very weak solution of soda. Dissolve a piece about the size of au ordinary grape in a quart of water, and pour it over the roots after being previously watered with the hose. MANURING Most vegetables are stroug feeders, and the land should be kept up fo a high state of fertility by using plenty of manure to replace the chemical elements, which plants have extracted from the soil. Horse manure Is excellent for vegetable crops, provided it is not perished by being exposed to the action of the atmosphere, which speedily extracts all the ammonia and other properties which it may possess. The best horse manure is that which is taken from the stable and placed in a heap or pit daily, and which is the excrement of well-fed, healthy horses. Artificial manures, such as bonedust, superphosphate, blood manure, potash, lime, salt, are all excellent fertilisers, and if properly applied and selected for the requirements of the soil and the vegetables to be grown, they will always prove a profitable investment. "Special Manures" for various crops, and all information regarding their uses can be supplied.

GARDEN PEAS SOW NOW AND PICK IN THE AUTUMN Garden peas require a good, open, rich loamy soil. In any but the very cold places the main crop could now be sown. To maintain a supply of these grqen vegetables, a sowing every three I weeks will be necessary. SOW SEED IN DRILLS The best position for peas is an I easterly aspect, and make the rows, I as nearly as possible, to run north and south, so that the sun shines on all the plants at some period of the day. DISTANCE TO MAKE ROWS The dwarf growers do not require as much space as the tall, on account of their not throwing such a long shade. The distance is generally about the height that the peas are supposed to grow. When the plants are about three or four inches high they should be earthed or hilled up to prevent them from sprawling about the ground, when there is a likelihood of thenbeing attacked by insects or if the weather is wet, the plants are liable to rot. The dwarf growers do not require any supports, but the taller varieties benefit by being kept off the ground. OLD AND TRIED VARIETIES There are many new varieties of garden peas, but it is safe to say that, for all climates, there is nothing to beat the Old Yorkshire Hero. This class of pea requires supports, while many of the American introductions are dwarf growers and prolific croppers. A list of these useful vegetables is catalogued at all the leading seed merchants. CULTURE It is absolutely necessary to keep the pea crops thoroughly cultivated. This serves a dual purpose, that of keeping down weeds and other growth, also assisting in the retention ©f moisture in the soil. Any of the well-rotted animal manures will suit peas. LIME AS A MANURE OR MEDICINE Peas are very partial to lime in any form, which has a tendency to make the heavy soils lighter and free to work, and the lighter soil is made more retentive of moisture by the use of lime. It is not possible to grow peas in damp, cold places. Though not a tough hard growth, the roots penetrate to a good depth. Peas are nodule producers,' and plots that have had peas growing previously will be in good condition for growing any of the root crops.

GROW BETTER DAHLIAS Dahlias are easily grown and there is no mystery in growing the large blooms that you see in the dahlia shows. We offer the following suggestions on their culture: Do not plant too early. Select your planting place in an open sunny position away from trees and buildings if possible. Prepare the soil by digging 12 to IS inches deep. After this dig holes about six inches deep and four feet apart and mix a handful of bone meal or pulverised sheep manure in each hole, mixing it thoroughly with the soil, and plant the tuber flat on its side w-ith the eye or sprout facing upward. Then cover with about three inches of soil, leaving the balance to be filled in as the plant grows. Remember the size of the tuber makes no difference. A small tuber will give just as large blooms as a big one. After two weeks, if more than one sprout comes up, remove all but the strongest sprout. As soon as the plant has grown to show three sets of leaves, the top should be pinched out. This causes the plant to branch out and in some cases does away with staking.

Cultivate and hoe at least once a week, being careful not to hoe too deep as to injure the small feeder roots; keep the beds free from weeds. If the season is very dry, water thoroughly, at least once a week. After the buds appear, the ground should be mulched with manure or a handful of bone meal, as the fertiliser given the plant now will help feed the buds and give you larger blossomy.

DISBUDDING AND PRUNING FOR EXHIBITION BLOOMS

To obtain the finest blooms only the strongest hud should remain, which is usually the crown or centre bud. The other two small buds should be removed, also the two small branches or laterals above the first set of leaves. Do not remove the lateral below, unless extra long stems are required, as these laterals will form your next blooms and should be treated as

above. A top-dressing of bone meal, at this time, will he very beneficial. Do not be afraid to cut your blossoms and keep all dead blooms cut off, as they are uot only unsightly, but take nourishment that otherwise would go to other blooms. After the plants have been killed by the frost, the stalks should be cut off close to the ground and tubers care-

fully dug and packed upside down, in boxes or barrels, and stored in a cool cellar.

If plants become hard-wooded, due to early planting, and hot, dry season, and the blossoms are small, cut the plant back and new growth will soon appear. In the above suggestions we have endeavoured to give, in a simple way, the culture for bettor dahlias. There is no flower that will respond more readily than the dahlia and by giving them a little extra care and attention you will be more than repaid for the trouble.