SECOND CROP OF ROSE BLOOMS

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 857, 28 December 1929, Page 26

SECOND CROP OF ROSE BLOOMS

As is generally known, the majority ot rose trees produce two crops of flowers, one from September onwards and the other in later summer, usually in February. The second crop almost entirely escapes the various pests that so often hamper the September roses. Unfortunately, however the blooms are seldom of such quality. The reason for this is that insufficient care is taken to ensure that the second crop shall be of choice bloom. One way in which February ros.es can be greatly helped is by cutting the earlier flowers with the longest possible stem. That not only makes the roses more useful for the vases, but it actually helps the trees and bushes. In effect, it almost takes the place of summer pruning, but not qqite. In addition it will be necessary to cut back the flowering growths 3 or 4 inches or so—after they have flowered. The result of the cutting back will in most cases be to induce a number of young, strong growths to put in an appearance, nearly all of them capable of flowering in February. Judicious summer feeding, also has its influence on the quality of the second crop, as also have hoeing, watering and when necessary mulching. One word of warning may be given as regards the feeding, however. A rose bush that looks weakly and has been a partial failure so far as September blooms are concerned, should on no account be given plentiful applications of liquid or solid manure with the idea of inducing it to produce February flowers. To feed a sickly rose to any extent is to run the risk of killing it. Now and again at long intervals, it may have a gentle tonic in the form of a little guano or dried poultry manure, but that is the full extent to which it may be stimulated. It may then be expected to recover its strength and flower normally the following year. Naturally to leave blooms to fade and die on the branches is to handicap the potential second crop. Indeed, the rosarian who has due thought for his bushes will cut most of the blooms when they are in the opened bud stage, that is before they are in any way fully expanded. Even those blooms which are left on the plant for the decoration of the garden would be cut before they have reached that stage when the lightest touch will scatter the petals. The greater the length of stalk cut with each bloom, the better, this being the case even when it is a question of removing faded blossoms. LIME FOR ROSES Rich black garden soil which has been regularly manured for many years will benefit greatly from a dressing of lime, which is best applied in the form of fresh-burnt, newly-slaked lime. This, besides

sweetening the ground and neturalising any tendency toward sourness, also kills many insect pests and brings into a soluble state much plant food hitherto fixed or in an unusable condition. For very heavy soil deficient in lime, basic slag is useful and may be employed both after planting and as a top dressing in the autumn. Lime and basic slag should be used at the rate of 4oz. to each square yard of bed.

Many growers favour the use of liquid manures during the summer, and there is indeed much to be said for them at this season, though solid manures cannot be dispensed with during the autumn and winter. In a liquid form food may be placed at the disposal of growing roses in a condition in which it may be immediately taken up, at the time when the plants can benefit most. Liquid manure should never be given to dry ground. Before it is applied it should be seen that the soil round the plants is watered thoroughly, or better still should be given only in showery weather.