THE GARDEN

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 834, 30 November 1929, Page 30

THE GARDEN

By

LEONARD A. GRIFFITHS, F.R.H.S.,

' Lovely flowers arc the smiles of God’s goodness.” — Wilberforce.

GERBERA The genu3 Gerbera was founded by the botanist Gronovius In 1737, and commemorates two German brothers Gerber, who were collectors of plants at this period. The group as at present conceived, comprises approximately 13 species, of which 25 are scattered throughout South Africa, especially in the coastal districts of Cape Colony, extending from the sou western districts from the Cape Peninsula. eastwaid up to Natal, and thence inland through the driest distrie.s, w here in their respective season, they considerably enhance the beauty of the vegetation. Of the remaining species three occur in Madagascar, three in tropical Africa, four in North Africa, the temperate zone of India lour, and China has four species. Th,e Gorberas of the Cape Feninsu) invariably found on the mountain slopes, principally of the Table Mountain Itaugo from sea level up to elevations of about 1,500 ft. Some luxuriate in the crevices of outcrops ~f granite on the geological formatin' known as the Table Mountain saudstone. a sandstone of reddish hue: others prefer more open and sandy situations, sand of a loose white coarse-grained matrix. Their preference for the geological formation uuder consideration is further evidenced by their greater abundance in the coastal districts, which are i raversed by this particular formation, and their absence or rarity where it vanishes. Gerberas seem to like a moderately heavy soil best. Red volcanic soils suit them to perfection. Good drainage is very important. A uortherly slope is the ideal spot, open to all the sunlight, for Gerberas are true sun-worshippers. if you have not a northerly aspect, plant the Gerberas along the northern side of a paling fence or wall. Thoroughly dig the soil to a depth of ISin; mix with it some well-decayed cow or horse manure, burnt grass or other vegetable matter; raise the beds slightly, say three or four inches, above the level of the path; tread down the soil firmly, and place your plants In position. Narrow beds, with two rows of plants placed about 15 to ISin apart, will do nicely. After putting out your plants, just keep the soil moist; xc'.o not attempt to overdo the watering. Then, beyond pulling out the weeds, leave your plants almost entirely alone. Purchase the best, plants you can obtain. Seedlings, of course, have ail their life before them, but you never know what colours you are likely to get. If they are small plants, they may turn out nearly all pale yellows or washy shades. Sections of vigorous plants which have flowered will give entire satisfaction if properly handled. Do not forget to make the soil firm around the plants. Mulch the surface with rotted leaves or grass. You will then reap a harvest of beautiful flowers, which are not excelled for decorations, over a period of many months.

PLANTING OUT TOMATOES Outdoor tomatoes, provided they have been hardened off, may now be safely planted out. A wall-backed bed is particularly suitable, for the bricks become warmed 'by the sun. and at night they radiate the warmh to the plants. Particularly rich soil is not necessary. The plants should be spaced out not less than lain apart. Each plant should be sunk in a saucerlike depression, so as to enable any water or liquid manure that may be applied to find its way directly to the roots. The soil should be made firm and the stems secured at once to supports. It will be necessary to pay continuous attention to the removal of all side shoots, for these are produced very rapidly after planting out. MULCHING One of the most important operations in garden culture is that of mulching, which is by no means carried out. to the extent it should be, especially in the warmer parts of New, Zealand. This is done by covering the surface of the soil with well-de-cayed cow. sheep or horse manure in order to prevent the hot sun’s rays from striking down upon the roots. Subsequently every shower of rain or watering will carry the fertilising properties of the mulch down to the roots of the plants. The mulching may be applied about an inch deep, and is best given when the plants are young. Most vegetable crops as well as flowers will immediately respond to a good mulching during hot weather. 4f DOUBLE PETUNIAS Petunias grow with little attention or care and in any soil when once started and bloom profusely all spring and summer. The large double varieties do not produce seed, but the pollen from them is artificially crossed on the large, single and fringed plants and the seed so produced will make a percentage of double blossoms. The gignt-flowered types produce large, single, plain-edged or fringed-eged blossoms. or very thickly-double flowers. As petunia seed is exceedingly fine, start, the plants in a box or flower pot and merely press into the soil after sowing and sift a little sand over to cover, if possible, allow the water to soak up from beneath. The weakest, looking plants will develop the handsomest flowers, so save all the plants carefully. REPOTTING ASPIDISTRAS Aspidistras and other hardy houseplants may be repotted if necessary. In repotting aspidistras see that the stems or rhizomes are not buried, but are kept level with the soil. A mixture of leaf mould and sand is the best to use for potting, and after shifting place the pots in a cool shade house for two or three weeks until they establish themselves.

CARE OF POT PLANTS The care of pot plants in rooms may be considered to be the most primitive of all forms of gardening, though it is by no means the easiest to carry through successfully. It is true that the plants chosen for this purpose are characterised by long suffering under adverse conditions, and are able to survive where many others would die. But there is a great difference between room plants that merely exist and others that thrive. The latter have the glow of health that brings pleasure to the cultivator; sickly plants are more trouble than they are worth, it is only when one comes across a really well-grown specimen that one realises with what great success some plants can be grown in rooms. I have recollections of a splendid plant of the Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria excelsa), quite live feet high, in a 7-incli-wide flower pot, and furnished with tiers of exquisite leaves from top to base. I have recently heard of a decorative Asparagus (commonly though erroneously referred to as Asparagus Fern) that was 6ft high, and had been grown in a pot in an ordinary living room for 15 years. Such examples as these convince one that gardening iu rooms can be brought to the highest perfection. Success is fairly sure if one begins well with the right plants, and employs common-sense methods subsequently, ft is far better to start with small plants; then one can make sure that they have the right soil, and are grown hardily from their youth. It is useless buying a grown plant that probably has been fbrced to make rapid growth in a heated glasshouse. ;:nd T chink many of the failures and much of tlio disappointment may be traced to this cause. The best, soil for

room ’plants consists, ol’ two-thirds loam, one-third leaf-soil and a fair sprinkling of sand. Spring is the best time to make a start, for then growth is becoming active, and one has a good chance of getting the plants established before they are called upon to face the inimical conditions of room lire during winter. It is best to buy a bag of suitable soil from the local nursery if none is at hand, for with careful management many a plant will live for years in a six-inch flower pot, so the importance of a good start is obvious.

Repotting .« likely to be the irst operation that calls for attention In potting, always adapt the pot to the size of tile roots of the plant.; the pot should be large enough to admit of one inch or so of fresh soil being placed all round. Potting does uot mean in all cases the shifting of a plant into a larger pot. as many seem to imagine. It is sometimes neces

sary, when the soil becomes sour and sodden and the roots inactive, to shift a plant iiito a smaller pot. Before using a pot, see that it is perfectly clean and dry. Press the soil moderately firm when po-tting, for plants never thrive in a loose root run; if they grow, the shoots are long and soft, and the water passes through the soil as through a sieve. Leave about one inch of space for water in a pot of six inches diameter. A piece of broken flower pot is placed over the hole at the base of the pot. hollow side, down, then covered with pieces of the same material broken rather small, the whole being covered with a layer of moss, leaves or fibrous soil in order to prevent the compost mingling with the drainage and clogging it. Watering, in the case of newlypotted plants, must be done with caution till the roots have taken hold of the new soil. It is important, however, that the whole of the soil should be moistened, and to do this the space left for the purpose may have to be filled more than onco. No fear of over-watering need be entertained if tile plants have been rightly potted and the drainage carefully placed, for all surplus water will drain away. Do not allow pots to stand in plates or saucers full of water; when the pots have drained, empty the saucers. Over-watering is the most common cause of failure in plant culture. “How often should I water my plants, and how much should I give them?’’ is a common question. Well, much depends on the weather and the season of the year: plants require far less water In winter than in summer, and in dull weather less than in bright weather.

WHY DROUGHT KILLS PLANTS WANT OF HUMUS For years people have preached of tho immense values of humus in tile soil. Now that the dry weather is upon us we realise more fully what the value of humus means. Hundreds of plants and trees have died through the recent drought, and I have no compunction in stating that if more green stub: had been dug into our gardens to act as manure and hold the moisture, j less plants would have died. From experimental figures we have the following results: —1001 b. sand will hold 251 b water: 1001 b. clay will hold 501 b. water 1001 b. humus will hold 1901 b. water. In addition, it promotes a chemical action which makes available to plant life foods in the soil which are unaffected by other manures. Therefore, to save water and grow better plants, put more humus iu your garden. There are many recognised seeds sown for green crops, but the best varieties for small gardens are lupins, mustard, peas, oats and ryegrass. Ail these contain a great deal of moisture, which helps the foliage to rot quickly when dug in. Lupins are, perhaps, the best for small gardens and should be broadcast and dug in just before the flower shows. In very dry soils a sowing of mustard is good. This contains much moisture and is, therefore, excellent j for this class of land. Tf gardeners would only lake notice | of these few remarks they would be i amply repaid in their crops and save j much money in artificial manure.