“SUN” SERVICE STATION
rpHE} ’Motordom' section ol Sun includes in its service to readers a A Queries and Answers Department, the object of which is to give accurate Information regarding mechanical and touring subjects* Whatever the particular puzzle may be In either diagnosing irritating troubles, or motoring Information of any kind. •’Headlight** will endeavour to help, or refer the point to men who are recognised automobile experts Id their respective lines. All communications must be accompanied by the inquirer’s name and address (not for publication), and sent to THE SUN “Service Station. Motordom." THE- SUN Auckland Answers will appear weekly In this column
“A—Z.”—l have a 1924 Ford car. To start it after it lias been standing all night takes about 20 minutes’ hard work at the starting handle. After it has been run a few minutes and got warm it is no trouble to start. Also, if I jack up both back wheels, and take the brake off, leaving it in gear, it is easy to start; a couple of turns will do it. It has a self-starter, but I only run the battery down if 1 use it without the engine being warm. The engine also heats up. and the radiator boils on hills or when using the low gear and reverse. Perhaps some of your readers can tell me what to do with it to get an easy start. Your Ford most likely needs new rings or pistons, perhaps both. After this is done you will find that your car will start without trouble, and also will pull much better on the top gear. You may also find that you either have too rich or too lean mixture. W.P.A.—I have a 192 S junior Singer car. Could you inform me how to get rid of a grinding, noise in the differential—or back axle. It: is more noticeable when driving at a speed of 25 to 30 miles an hour. I will be thankful for advice on the matter. A noise in the diff. is a sure sign that serious trouble will develop if it is not attended to. It is most probable that the ring-gear and pinion are not correctly adjusted. This could be caused by: Excessive wear of the gear teeth, ball-races, or thrust races: it is also possible that the assembly has been at fault. I would suggest that you have the diff. opened up, and all parts cleaned and examined for faxilts. Renew any parts that are defective.
“Small Garage.”—Car is a 1927-28 Hudson Super-Six Brougham. Trouble is experienced changing gears, also in starting off in gear. After the car has been started up, and the clutch pressed in, when the gear is placed in either first, second or third, or reverse, a grinding on the cogs is present. What I mean is that you can’t put the gear in without making a noise. The engine has to be idling very slowly before it is possible to put the gear in. Clutch has been cleaned out. and new oil put in: also the gear-box has been cleaned and new oil put in. Oil used in gear is “C,” and in clutch is used “medium,” with two parts of kerosene. Have tried various ratios with kerosene and oil, but to no effect. Also, it is hard to change from first to second, as it takes a bit of pulling to get the gear out of first. In our opinion the trouble is a spinning clutch. First investigate clearance between clutch pedal and floor boards: this should be about Sin. —it is just possible that there is excessive clearance, which means that the clutch is not sufficiently disengaged when the pedal is depressed. Adjustment is provided to obtain the desired clearance. Another consideration is whether the gear box lubricant is leaking through in to the clutch, something that can be determined when the latter is being drained, for the mixture will then be discoloured. Two things will bring this about, a leaking felt washer in the front of the gear box or this unit may have too much oil in it. Incidentally we recommend inspecting oil levels after car has been driven, so that the compound is warmed sufficiently.
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Bibliographic details
Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 758, 3 September 1929, Page 6
Word Count
703“SUN” SERVICE STATION Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 758, 3 September 1929, Page 6
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