Frills, Fads and Foibles

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 704, 2 July 1929, Page 5

Frills, Fads and Foibles

Vogues and Vagaries

By

MADAME JEANNE VARREZ)

Most coats follow the lines of the figure and are more or less fitted in to the waist this year. Trimmings usually consist of stitched lines. When collars are untrimmed, they are often made in one with the back and tucked up to fit the neck in a fairly loose open line. In such a case, cuffs of sleeves are treated in the same manner with an easy opening to slip on and off. Without exception, all the modish coats of tweed and lainage are soft and flexible. Even the old-time stiffening of revers is obviated in order to ally feminine grace to masculinity of cut; a characteristic that is also emphasised when slight flares are inserted in a redingote from a decorative pointed line movement finishing off below the ceinture.

Little coats and walking suits likewise follow the fitted line; both those that are short —that is to say, just below the hip line—and those which are about knee length.

Even negligees are made on rediagote lines. One typical model was fashioned of oyster-white satin, very rich of texture. Pitted to the waist, double-breasted, and fastened with large mother-o’-pearl buttons, it flared out from the waist in gore-shaped skirts right down to the ground, and was lined throughout with satin in an exquisite shade of rose.

Then there was an evening coat, very long, and quite rigorously tailored, in the loveliest white and gold shot moire. Collar and revers accentuated the tailored line, and the sumptuous garment was innocent of the orthodox fur trimming. Its only ornament was a diamente flower in the buttonhole.

The softer materials, however, permit a choice of coats that are not fitted. In this category come crepe de chine, crepe satin, silk maroeain, and wool georgette. Such coats hang loosely, like cardigans, or like the very new and very short evening coats in tapestry, or broche brocade. Sports models are accepted for town wear, now that the term “sports” is merely a figure of speech, in that it includes ensembles quite appropriate to town wardrobes. What it amounts to is that, in such instances, the truly sporting character has been eliminated, though the so-called “sports model” retains the pull-over as one of its distinguishing features. Coats and skirts that have the appearance of being tailored, allied with the aforesaid pullover, typically express the "sports model” for town. Very attractive examples of the trend are illustrated in two of the ensembles created by a famous designer. The first, in navy blue flannel, has a tailored

reefer‘jacket with buttons of steel instead of the orthodox brass, and a faultlessly cut skirt with three perfectly tailored inverted box pleats at cue side. The pull-over is of handknitted red tricot, with small flowers knitted through the red wool in colours that are repeated at the heip and round the pointed . neckline—to wit, green and white. The other model shows a black seven-eighths length coat with chartreuse green and white lines inserted underneath the collar at the back. In this case the ensemble note is completed by the tie, which is arranged round the neck to fall in smart tabs at the front of the black-and-white mixture pull-over worn above a beautifully modelled, tailored skirt.

The prevalently fashionable blouses look very youthful when cut on chic

“chemisier” lines in plain silk or striped shirting, with neat turn-down collars and “cravate” silk ties generally coloured like the suit. It is notable that the masculine effect is contradicted with typical feminine inconsistency by the daintiest of chiffon handkerchiefs. This alluring trifle is tucked into a smart little pocket in a pretty and ultra-feminine fashion.