Feminine Interests

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 697, 24 June 1929, Page 5

Feminine Interests

Frills, Fads and Foibles

Vogues and Vagaries (By MADAME JEANNE YAEREZ)

It is probable that, with the new fashion season, a further effort will be made to establish the longer skirt and the higher waist-line. There is nothing alarming, however, in this tentative prophecy. No freakish or dowdyish element will ever again be introduced by La Mode, who has to serve a generation of women who will no longer submit tamely to any kind of tyranny. If change there be, it will merely be in the nature of a safeguard against exaggerated skirtbrevity. Certain it that skirts are already decidedly longer, and the waistline is nearer normal in practically all the newest models; but it is equally certain that not one of them adds a day to the apparent age—a disaster no modern elegante would brook.

A great deal of variety is seen in necklines. Collarless coats, which look their best when the inner garment is V-shaped, are particularly new. Others are cut square in front, and take a deep pointed line at the back. Not a becoming style, but it is encountered in the most exclusive salons. Yokes—whether square, round or pointed—are helpful features. And very kind to older women is the deep “V” for evening wear, just as the rounded neckline is charming on the younger folk. It is impossible to overestimate the importance of the right neckline, for the wrong one can ruin a whole toilette.

Incidentally, the square neck-open-ing characterises toilettes for tennis, and is very good style. But here again it is a question of studying individual type. The square neck is not for everyone.

Many a well-known dressmaker will tell you that you must watch sleeves for indications of forthcoming dress trends. Sleeves certainly do count, quite apart from actual fashion. Wonderfully slim-looking. and therefore assured of many partisans, is the long, fitted mittened sleeve. Quite a number of the most engaging “little” frocks of recent date have demonstrated the charm of long sleeves and V necks, which are good either for the theatre or hotel wear. The sleeveless dress, on the other hand, is the prettier style w r hen one of the new* dinner or bridge coats is worn. Both have the sanction of La Mode. Leg-of-mut-

ton sleeves—alleged—are so gracefully shaped into the wrist that they are scarcely recognisable as such. There was a brief outbreak of tudor puffings, but it soon subsided. The fact is, nothing that is fussy to the point of shapelessness is long permitted in these days of well-defined contours that aim at all-essential simplicity effects. For loose wraps, the bell-shape sleeve is equally popular with the kimono sleeve. For dressy, important coats, the gauntlet or cavalier cuff is the prevalent choice. Dress sleeves in the main are simply but beautifully cut, and finished with fine handwork. Evening modes never fail of their modern allure. Chiffon or satin corsages, allied to the full flared skirts of chiffon, net or tulle, are up-to-the-moment conceits. Plain satin skirts are often allied to blouse-like corsages in chiffon or lace; sometimes in different colours. Singled our for special admiration was one lovely model composed entirely of -white chiffon, gofferedr and tucked, with a wide sash of white satin exquisitely painted with a floral design. The perfect frock had a dinner-coat complement of equal perfection, materialised in the same painted fabric. Notable among the new material is a sort of transparent voile, christened “rodelic.” It covers all the range of delicate pastel colours, and is obtainable plain or figured, the latter including floral, geometrical and astronomical designs, as well as very small checks. A new* georgette, so fine as to be closely allied to chiffon, is called “tchinsou.” This is also seen in the loveliest colours and patterns, as is yet another tetxile triumph by name “sumida”—something new in crepe de chines. A surface somewhat resembling tussore explains, presumably, the nomenclature of “tuslikasha” —a material obviously intended, for light frocks. Never- has the indispensable two piece or three-piece been jso well varied. This season we can substitute the blouses of muslin, or embroidery, or even of lace, for the matching jumper, whenever w r e have the inclination to make the welcome change. Typical of the new order is a most attractive three-piece of crepella in a delightful shade of almond green, comprising pleated skirt and cardigan coat, and a jumperblouse of finest cambric dj'ed to a paler and perfectly harmonising tone of green. Creamy linen-lawn fashions the collar and the modish frilled jabot. The “en suite” hat is in two shades of green.

Much-favoured colour schemes of the moment are yellow-and-white, red-and-white, and red-and-black. Among the new wool-and-silk alliances an

elusive red-pink appears to predominate. Again illustrative of the prevalent ensemble is a cardigan coat and skirt in a very light-weight red-pink tweed, with a crochet silk jumper in pale pink, and a matching stitched hat of crepe de chine.

Then there is “hunting pink" now seen in a softer shade than the rather fierce lacquer-red or vermilion that appeared in so many of the earlier collections.

The short and semi-flared semisports coat is seen in cloth, in silk, in fancy fabric, and in flannel, and is much worn over simple day gowns. The coat-flare determines the prolonged career of tile pleated skirt, praise be. For the flare, howver subtle, demands some sort of balance below, so to speak. Such models as have been seen in the form of unpleated sports skirts are anything but attractive —or practical. It is only necessary to look at them —especially the thinner-material kinds-? to realise that, cut plain, they will soon take on the aspect of the proverbial “rag.”

It is a different matter, of course, where the tailored ensemble is concerned. A well-cut plain skirt can look its best in the material and style dictated by the strictly tailored mode. Even so, however, many designers are introducing three box-pleats at the side of the skirt.

Fabrics seem to create fashions to suit themselves, as it were. Thus one of the most alluring country colour schemes is found in a black and grey tweed, with a contrasting colour introduced by an over-check design, the shade of which is “featured” in accompanying hat, scarf and pochette. Correctness of detail continues to exercise the dress-sense and deplete the purse. To a great extent, shoes and stockings this season are matching the suit or the frock, whenever the colour permits. In so far as gloves are concerned, gauntlet gloves of thick suede or wash-leather, stitched with black or some sober hue, always look well with smart country clothes. The all-fashionable scarf must not be too “voyant” unless it contributes its quota to a very-special colour scheme. Snakeskin, and cunning novelties that bear a close family resemblance to the reptile tribe, are very popular for belts and handbags, which must match shoes whenever practicable, since the matching vogue is apparently ineradicable from our modern dress standards.

Ribbons play their part in sports millinery as well as town hats. A very good shape—for those still shorn!—-is in a soft straw or felt of light colouring, with a wide bow across the back in checked or striped ribbon, to be repeated in some form or other in the accompanying scarf. Much less imitation jewellery is worn. Bangles of linked crystal and silver, or even of marble, to come into linewith a belt, a buckle, or a hat ornament, are very new and chic when worn with tweed. Navy serge is much “helped” by blue-enamel and platinum. A necklet of onyx-discs and crystal is shown with belt to match, as well as a corresponding bracelet, to emphasise the en-suite detail of a well-thought-out black-and-white tailored theme.

WAIKATO NOTES Airs. Gordon Bennett, of Hamilton, j left this week for Wellington, whence ! she sails for England. Airs. Curlett, of the Bay of Plenty, is the guest of her sister, Airs. A. C. Cooper, of Waitehuna. Airs. S. Lewis and Aliss Jean Caw, of Cambridge, were recent callers at New Zealand House in London. Airs. J. Gray, of Kaponga, is ’he guest of Airs. J. H. Hammond, in Hamilton. * * * AFTERNOON PARTY On Friday afternoon, Airs. A. C. Cooper, of Waitehuna, gave a very jolly party in the Circle Room of the Lyceum Club, for her sister, Airs. Curlett, of Bay of Plenty. Mrs. Cooper was wearing a smart black satin frock, and small black hat with touches of red. Airs. Curlett was in a pretty saxe milanese silk suit with small grey and blue velour nat. A clever competition created much amusement, and was won by Airs. A. Joll. Airs. Cooper’s guests were: Airs. H. .T. Strang, Airs. H. T. Gillies, Airs. A. Ward, Airs. Alatthias, Airs. W. King, Airs. H. Griffiths, Airs. C Hume, Airs. Bouillon, Airs. S. Green, Airs. Alexander, Airs. G. Taylor, Airs. P. G. Russell, Airs. A. Joll, Airs. O’Callahan, Airs. G. Rogers, Airs. J. D. Smith, Airs. O. Alonckton, Airs. Hubert Hammond, Airs. Howard Hammond, Airs. H. Ferguson. Airs. Cr .Valder and Aliss Robey. BRIDGE AT AIORRINSVIBLE The women members of the Alorrinsville Golf Club gave an enjoyable bridge afternoon recently at the home of Airs. F. W. Ellis. The hostesses were Airs. Ellis and Mrs. E. Jackson. Progressive bridge was played, Airs. G. Were winning the prize for the highest number, and Airs. H. Howie the hidden number prize. Among those • present were:—Airs. Ellis, Airs. Jackson, J. C. Allen, W. J. Osborne, Airs. J. Wyatt, Airs. L. Echlin, Airs. F. Seifert, Airs. A. Needham, Airs. J.McKay, Airs. S. Parloud, Airs. H. Howie, Airs. T Alartin, Airs. Cooper, Airs. Alervel, Airs. Henderson, Airs. Robinson, Airs. G. Were, Airs. Retry, Airs. Millar, Airs. Martin, Airs. Turner, Airs. Alueller, Mrs. Ball, Mrs. Cullingham, Airs. C. H. McKay, Airs. Hawkins, Aliss A. Sealer, Aliss Henderson and Aliss Robinson.