SMALL FRUITS

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 696, 22 June 1929, Page 30

SMALL FRUITS

GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS Almost everyone fortunate enough to have sufficient space at his command likes to have a few bushes of these popular small fruits in the garden, so that a few words on this subject will not be out of place at the present time and should prove especially helpful to those who contemplate planting bushes this season. In the first place, let it be said that the earlier this operation can be performed after the leaves have fallen the better it is for the future of the plants, because early planting means that new rootlets will push forth and take a hold on the soil before the advent of severe weather and, consequently, the bushes start their normal growth in the spring without any appreciable check. When purchasing fruit-bushes always deal with a firm of repute, for “cheap’* stock obtained through auction rooms or from foreign firms of doubtful reputation invariably turns out dearest in the long run. Very frequently it is weakly, diseased or wrongly named. If it is possible to view the bushes prior to purchase, so much the better, and the buyer should make sure that the bushes are free from diseases and pests. The preparation of the ground is very important. Gooseberries and black currants thrive best in a good retentive loam, rather moist and cool, although the former will do well on almost any ordinary garden soil, providing the position is open and sunny. Red and white currants do not require such a strong looting medium, and succeed admirably on any ordinary soil, well-manured and not wanting in lime; they are excellent subjects for north borders or walls, in this latter case trained as cordons. In all cases the ground should be trenched and enriched by the addition of well-rotted manure, and allowed to settle for some few days prior to planting. The condition of the ground at the time of planting is also an important factor in the success of the operation. It should be in a crumbly, friable state. Planting in wet, sticky soil is exceedingly bad practice. Far better lay the bushes closely together in a trench and cover the roots with soil until better planting conditions obtain. On the arrival of the bushes from the nursery they should be carefully examined and any damaged roots or branches neatly trimmed away with a sharp knife. The correct distance apart for plant-

ing bushes is sft each way, and with currants, under suitable conditions, an additional foot will prove both desirable and advantageous. Take care that the holes are made sufficiently large to admit of the roots being well spread out without any suspicion of “cramping.” Plant the same depth as the plants have been in the nursery—this is ascertainable by noting the position of the soil mark on the stem, and tread the ground firm, but not hard, as the work of filling in the holes proceeds. Pruning is best delayed until the spring, but it is advisable to remove and burn the soft tips of the gooseberry shoots, for if any gooseberry mildew is present it will be located in that portion of the plant at the present season.