PLANTING ROSES

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 684, 8 June 1929, Page 30

PLANTING ROSES

SET THEM NOW Whenever it is possible, roses should be given a bed to themselves away from trees or shrubs —and don't make the mistake of planting annuals or other robbers around the plants, to extract the soil nourishment that should go to the roses; they not only do this, but also stop the circulation of air which must permeate the soil.

The distances between the plants must be determined by the habit of growth of each variety. In all soils where there is not natural drainage, this must be supplied, as it is very essential not only to take off the superfluous water, but also to aerate the soil.

There are two schools of thought regarding placing manure in the subsoil. I personally do not favour it, as a rose plant, being a surface feeder, the manures in my garden are placed in the top soil

In planting, a hole hould be dug IS inches square, and eight inches deep, and the bottom of this hole should have four inches of virgin soil, or top spit containing no manure whatever, for I consider that a great many failures in young plants start by manure coming in contact with the young roots. In the centre of this hole, which is now four inches deep, make a little mound of earth, and if a standard or half-standard is to be planted, place the stake in the centre, first driving it home firmly, before planting the rose, taking care that !he stake will not protrude through the leaf of the plant. Then place the plant on the mound of earth, which will give the roots a downward tendency. spreading the roots out in all directions round the plant; then fi.i in to the surface with more virgin soil, treading it firmly. Firm planting and no manure are absolutely essential. Now give the plant about one bucket of water, and if there is a dry winter after planting, do this periodically When the work of planting is finished, rake the ground over lightly, and leave the soil loose at the top, and after every watering repeat the raking or hoeing.