THE BUSY MAN’S CORNER

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 572, 26 January 1929, Page 30

THE BUSY MAN’S CORNER

AMONG THE FLOWERS CLIMATIC CONDITIONS. —ObviousIy the conditions prevailing just now are not altogether conducive to gardening, but with a little care and attention the various vegetables and flowers suggested may be grown to advantage. It is necessary to resort to mulching and copious waterings,, applying the latter for preference during the cooler hours of the evening. A thorough soaking once or twice a week will be much better than nightly sprinklings. SWEET PEAS. —January and early February ushers in some particularly attractive subjects for planting. Among the most prominent is the sowing of winter sweet peas. The ground requires to be deeply trenched and plenty of rotted manure dug into the soil. A sprinkling of lime and bonedust will also do good. Soak the seeds in water a few hours before sowing. This during the dry weather helps germination. The spencer waved varieties are by far the best strain to plant. SPRAYING FOR PESTS. —flow are your chrysanthemum plants? Keep a good look out for rust. This may be checked by spraying with lime and sulphur solution. Many early plants are showing buds. These should be thinned out if good buds are required. Caterpillars are appearing in wholesale numbers; spray with arsenate of lead, 1£ teaspoonfuls per gallon of water. Any insect life on rose or dahlia foliage may be controlled with black leaf 40, teaspoonfuls per gallon. HARDY ANNUALS TO SET. —The planting of annuals at this period of the year is always more or less a ticklish job as the gardener has to consider what will succeed in the dry period. For hot borders Marigolds are unsurpassed and last a long time in blossom. Phlox and petunias are good subjects and are very bright and showy. Plant the above about 12in. apart. Other subjects for setting are amaranthus, pyrethrum, celosia, salvia, cockscomb and portulacca. POT PLANTS. —Coleus plants are very popular for house decoration, the brilliantly coloured foliage being suitable for indoor work. Many are now beginning to throw up flower heads. These should be pinched out as they spoil and weaken the plant. Where plants have drawn up long and spindly, the centres should be nipped out to make them branch. Most palms, aspadistras and ferns at this period quickly respond to liquid manure. Apply after watering say once a fortnight. SEEDS TO SET. —For outside sowing of flower seeds the ground will be too dry. Most seeds are very small and will be burnt up and so gardeners are well advised to confine their seed sowing to boxes. The following varieties may now be sown:—lceland poppies for winter flowering, beauty stock for early blooms, pansy and viola for bedding, antirrhinum, larkspur and calliopsis for borders, anemone and ranunculus for making young bulbs for late spring flowering. AMONG THE VEGETABLES AUTUMN VEGETABLES.— There is still time to make a start for the growing of late autumn vegetables and with the price we have to pay for them just now it is well worth while growing a few of the quicker maturing varieties and thus decrease the cost of living. Salad varieties are of paramount importance and are always welcomed in the hot days. With warm soil, if kept moist by systematic watering, hoeing and mulching, the growth will be quick and sure. FRENCH BEANS AND QUICK PEAS. —French beans if sown now will reach maturity in from 6 to 8 weeks from time of sowing, which should be made at intervals of a fortnight until the end of February. Canadian wonder is the best variety and should be planted about two inchs deep in double rows 2% feet apart. The so-called early peas are the best varieties to sow for a late crop as they mature very quickly, being of a dwarf habit. William Hurst, American wonder and daisy are all good. If the soil is moulded up along the rows of both vegetables as they grow moisture will be retained around the roots. TOMATOES . —ln most gardens these are looking well as growth has been exceedingly good this year. Continual sprayings with lime and sulphur or bordeaux powder should be made to keep down any signs of blight and black rot that might be about. Caterpillar attacking the fruit may be kept in check by using arsenate of lead, 2 teaspoonfuls per gallon. Where foliage growth is very heavy a little may be thinned out to let the sun in among the fruit spLirs. Extra heavy pruning is not good as the plant is apt to bleed. MANURING GENERALLY. —To force along lettuce and c abbage crops nitrate of soda is excellent, 1 tablespoonful per gallon of water every 10 days. For a general fertiliser among root crops blood and bone is good, sprinkle along the rows and hoe in. Tomatoes coming into bearing should be manured with two parts potash, one part ammonia and one part super. This mixture increases the size of the fruit and gives them good colour. SEEDS TO SOW. —Carrots, swedes and turnips may be drilled along in rows and thinned out when large to handle. Make the rows with the hand fork and thoroughly soak the soil after preparation. Then sow the seed along the wet drills and cover over with dry soil, watering lightly when finished. By doing it this way you have the necessary moisture under the seed to force the crop along. Radishes may still be sown if plenty of water is available. Do not attempt to transplant red beet now as they may go to seed. Sow and tli in out. is the best policy. THINGS TO GROW, —Silver beet may still be planted if one is looking for green crops. Broccoli is a better crop to grow than cauliflower as they stand the winter well. Brussel sprouts and borecole are excellent winter greens specially in frostly districts. Savoy cabbage is the best cropper for planting now and stands the ravages of the fly. Red pickling cabbage may be set at once and is tasty when cooked. Leeks ‘and celery may be set any time in prepared trenches.