VOGUES AND VAGARIES

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 571, 25 January 1929, Page 5

VOGUES AND VAGARIES

| (By MADAME JEANNE VARREZ) The very smartest gowns in the J smart category, both for evening and I daytime, are those that hare tight hip yokes cut to fit closely and to hold in the fluffy type of biassed short skirt. Other types of frocks are almost startling in their simplicity, and satisfy a less sophisticated sense of chic with their straight lines and high collars. Often these collars finish with a , j couple of loose ends thrown over the • shoulder and the straight line effect . | is broken only by a pocket on one , side, or a row of buttons in a diagonal . line across the front. All manner of materials are employed. Satin is as much in the forefront of the sartorial picture as it ever was, and the same excellent use is still made of both dull and shiny surfaces. Contrasting insertions are once again of the geometrical genre. Afternoon frocks of ethereal chiffon are piquantly embellished with narrow lingerie collars and cuffs. Another much favoured finish consists in bands of chiffon in contrasting colours. Many elegant moire robes demonstrate the individual allure of the high-necked mode. Pleated skirts continue to set the prevailing style in trotteurs, both of the tailor-made and sports variety. One of the prettiest types is made, with three deep “organ” pleats starting just in front of the right hip and three similar pleats starting just at the back of the left hip. Each pleat is held firmly in place with an “abeille” of black silk. The effect is exceedingly trim, taut and practical. The ideal coatee for wear with such a jupe was shown at a recent show, m the form of a smart little garment cut on the lines of an old-world waistcoat, reminiscent of the Court of Louis Seize, and materialised in a thick parchment coloured brocade. The coatee had cross-over fronts, and the opening was filled in bewitchm with a foamy jabot of finest lace. The crossed-over lower part was fastened with small jet buttons (a very fashionable trimming note just now). And the whole garment—tight round the hips and forming a slight pouching effect—was piped round in black satin. So was a diminutive heart-shaped pocket; further adorned, moreover, with a lightly-broidered motif. The sleeves recalled the Garde Francaise, being long, close-fitting and highcuffed. Those of us who are jealous of our hard-won sartorial ease will look a trifle askance at the corsetry displays. It appears that the erstwhile universal “sheath” garment no longer lends itself to the achievement o< the sought-after line. Corsets and brassieres must replace it. In -a word, the sheath produces the straight figure and the brassiere-corset combine “favours” the newly-permitted curves. True, the “corset” is not: a very alarming affair. But already it is cut higher than we have seen it for some time, while the brassiere is cut lower. i Jhe princess line is obviously influencing evening lingerie, particularly in the matter of “foundation” garments, which conform to the cor- < set-brassiere theme. ( Stockings must match gloves when t destined for daytime wear. And hand- t bags should be en suite. Which ac- j counts for the all-prevalent shades of ] brown, mushroom, “cocoa,” and kin- , dred “leathery” hues. The newest ] gunmetai shade has a certain vogue, j and is distinctly bluish in tone —quite different from its predecessor of last year.