A "Personaly-Conducted" Tour of Auckland.

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 554, 5 January 1929, Page 15

A " Perso n al y- Co n ducted" Tour of Auckland.

Quaint and Historic Places That Are Frequently Unnoticed by Passers-By. . . What is a Dolphin ? . . . Chop-Suey May Be Purchased in Grey Avenue . . . The Old Mill

(Written for THE SUN by

J. R. SHEEHAN.)

[ y-m in— UCIvLAXD is just ■ that dash o£ his- ___________ torical association that makes a city interesting. With a population of over 200,000, practically every nationality, religion and political outlook is represented in the city. In odd corners of the town are places that are often overlooked by the average citizen who passes them hurriedly every day, -without worrying about what they are or whether they are interesting. Familiarity breeds contempt and the every-day sights of the city are often the least known in reality. There are various institutions in and around Auckland that are worthy of mention. People of other nationalities and creeds have meeting houses in the city -where they forgather to discuss their beliefs—political or religious. But the average citizen never hears about it. He does not want to. He is quite.content t<? pay his way and go his way without interfering with or caring about his neighbours. But let us take a glance at some of the’ institutions and familiar sights around

Auckland that carry an interesting story for those who care to seek it. The Maori Hostel in Gittos Street caters—as its name implies—for the Maori. This building is a familiar sight to those who travel to Parnell and Remuera. With its semi-Maori design and peculiar shape it is suggestive of a Maori pa, with a central "marae” round which rooms are built. This institution is for the convenience of the travelling Maori and is supported by funds from the lease of Maori lands, being under the administration of the Native Trustee.

To stay there costs the genuine Maori traveller nothing. Nothing, that is, so long as he wishes to live simply. Should he hire a mattress, he can do so, from the caretaker, for a few pence. Food, of course, is not provided. Every Maori supplies his own. This he may cook in the vessels placed at his disposal. The hostel is more in the nature of a camping ground. The rooms are large and airy, with great open fireplaces to offset the cold of winter and wood 'is supplied free to ail the guests. No indigent or sick Maoris may stay there and this rule is strictly enforced. It is kept for its original

purpose, which is the convenience of the visiting Maori—a place where he ... r . , and his family can stay and not be hampered by the ways of Europeans, He can come in when he likes and go out when he likes free from all the , . f „ iforg irksome restrictions of a boaidinghouse or hotel. Auckland can boast a Quaker Church. The Society of Friends conducts its services in a church building in the Mount Eden Road. ~ . , . „„„ Here the disciples of W llliam Penn meet to carry on the traditions and ideals of the first Quaker. The number of adherents is comparatively small, but after all it is interesting to know that we have replesentatives of this fine old stock in i the city. The curious may go to the Chinese TT , _, Mission Church off Hobson Street on a Sunday evening and there hear a service conducted almost entirely in Cantonese. This work is carried out , . , , ... by earnest people who do everything possible for the Christian Chinese in the city.

The Bibles are printed in English and Cantonese, and round the walls of the building hang various familiar texts—all in Chinese characters. At one end of the room is a reproduction of Holman Hunt’s “Light of the World.” The European preacher addresses his Chinese congregation in their na tional language throughout the service, announcing hymns and texts ii. English for the sake of the visitor The congregation is small but enters with spirit into the singing of hymns in their native language. A different aspect of China is tc be seen in Hobson Street. A smart, looking building with Chinese anc

English signs on the window announces that here is the Kuo-Min-Tang local headquarters of the Chinese NatlonaUst party. Though far from their native land the Chinese still take an active interest in the politics o£ their land, and here the Chinese ather to add their strength to ward the movem ent that has played such an important part in the affairs of China. p or those who like to experiment w -ith foods, two chop-suey cafes in Grey Avenue offer possibilities, Here is the correct atmosphere for the eating of the delicate dish and v j s jt or w ill be supplied with chopsticks, the knives and forks of the Chinese -who find no difficulty in using them. How many Aucklanders know there j s a ginger factory in the city? Very few, it would be safe to say. Yet up i n Rutland Street there is a factoiy devoted to the preparing of the fragrant herb, which has such a wide sale. . of all the interesting features, however> that the city claims> the Old Mill takes pride of place. Standing in the heart of Auckland, it is a landmark for miles as the great sails turn slowly m the wind. The mill stm carrles on tlle purpose for which wa s originally built—the grinding of flour for bread. Though other

methods have come, the owner prefers the simplicity and beauty of the windmill to the noise and clatter of more modern machinery. The encroachment of buildings has robbed the mill of its source of power at various times, but the difficulty has been overcome by raising the whole structure and the mill still holds its own despite the rapid increase in building and the greater height to which modern structures are raised. As an asset to Auckland the Old Mill is second to none. To the | visitor the idea of a genuine working j windmill in the centre of a big city ! seems almost incredible. But credible or incredible, the mill carries out iys work day by day and year by year, proving itself useful by its work and enhancing the beauty of the city. Let us descend from the admiration of the aesthetic to the study of the plebian and decidedly popular peanui. The peanut vendors of Auckland arc known to thousands who daily pass up and down the city. No one worries about what kind of a living they make. How many peanuts a day must a man sell to make a living? The question is interesting. Readers who wish to follow it up must make friends with a peanut merchant. Suffice it to say that these men carry on their business and seem to do well at it. Auckland, like other New Zealand towns, has a number of fruit stalls on the streets and a brisk and substantial trade seems to be done by these open-air shopkeepers. A well-known part of the city is the Three Lamps, Ponsonby. This spot is familiar to all Aucklanders and dates away back to the days when the Three

KEEPING CP .1 TRADITION—In the days of gas-lamps, there were three globes at this corner. So that the. popular designation Three Lamps might still apply, the. same number of electric globes has been placed iv. position. Lamps took its name from the three big gas lamps which were there. Later when electric light replaced gas as a street illuminant the name was fixed, and three electric lamps replaced the old ones, and thus carried on the tradition that demands three lamps at this spot. Have you ever watched a ship revolving round a peculiar structure out. in Judges Bay? Why does a ship revolve round this dolphin, and what is a dolphin anyway? Well, gather round me, the dolphin class! This dolphin was built to replace the ones formerly at St. Mary’s Bay and Islington Bay. It is simply a convenience for ships to swing on while they adjust their compasses. Twenty feet in diameter it is supported on strong piles to withstand the strain when vessels roll around it on the end of a taut rope. Out on the Great North Road stand the grim ruins of the Old Stone Jug, a source of interest to all visitors and of pride to Aucklanders, This build-

ing, which has been a fort in the Maori War (and an hotel among other things) is now to be turned into a garage. It has had its share of adventure. The city is full of such places, and to the person sufficiently interested to investigate there is a wealth of information to be gained, throwing fresh light on the activities of the lesserknown residents of the city and the fascinating history attached to many of the old buildings.