THE GARDEN

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 418, 1 September 1928, Page 30

THE GARDEN

BY

LEONARD A. GRIFFITHS,

F.R.H.S.. F.N.Z Inst.

“He that plants trees loves others besides himself.” —Sir H. Sloane.

PASSION FRUIT

The passion fruit, or to give it its botanical name —Passiflora Edulis —- is highly esteemed during the summer months for fruit salads and various other methods in which it is employed. The banana passion fruit, or to use its correct name, Tasconia mollissima, is not so often met with, but is preferred to the black varieties by some. It is not so prolific, and hardly pays from a commercial point of view, but when fences require covering it is worth planting.

The treatment of both is identical. It is best to procure plants from the nurseryman for home work, but where grown in large quantities they can be grown from seed sown in the spring. The soil should be rich, as they are gross feeders, but the most essential thing is to have a good drainage, as the plants will not grow in wet, sodden ground; although they like copious supplies of "water during the summer months, it must drain away.

Thoroughly trench the ground and work in some lime; well break up the subsoil, and mix well with good rotted manure. Bone-meal can also be worked into the soil. Allow it to settle before planting. If growing the plants in the open, put in posts about Bft out of the ground, and run two wires, one on top and the other about 2ft lower, to train the vines on. But the posts 12ft apart., and put them in before planting. Place a plant at each post, and if more than one row is to be planted, the rows must be 12ft apart. After planting, tie the plant to the stake and give a good soaking of water. NOW IS A GOOD TIME TO PLANT Passion fruit must be carefully looked after during the first year; they come into bearing the second season, and the following year heavy

I crops can be looked for. They genI erally last to about seven years, if I carefully attended to. i When the plants begin to grow, see [ to the tying of them, and keep them |to one shoot, removing all side- | shoots until they reach the first wire, j when they can he stopped. Select I two shoots to train each side of the | post, and then run a single shoot up j to the top wire, when that can be j stopped and two more shoots trained | each side as before. Pinch out the j tips occasionally to induce them to ! send out the side-shoots on which j the fruit will form. Allow these to I hang down from the wire, as they I will then commence to fruit. | Give the ground a good mulching,

round the roots of the vines, and always he careful near the stems, as they send out a lot of surface roots, which are easily damaged by digging with a spade. WHEN THE PLANTS ARE FRUITING Abundance of thorough soakings of water must be given; light sprinklings only induce surface rooting, and the roots are often destroyed by the hot sun. When in full bearing, sulphate of ammonia and potash can be used, often and little. After fruiting, work in some good stable manure, or better still, cow manure, if procurable; cut away all spent wood and see that the new growths are not crowded.