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HOW TO KILL SNAILS AND SLUGS

Snails feed on weeds as well as cultivated plants, and particularly attack cabbages, cauliflowers, beans,

peas, tomatoes, violets. In any plan to rid the garden of snails, therefore, it is essential to remove adjacent weed growth, accumulated rubbish, or any other shelter prior to control measures being undertaken. There is nothing more disheartening to the amateur gardener than to have his choice seedlings eaten off night after night. Both slugs and snails breed very freely and deposit eggs which are laid in clusters of 60 to 90. These eggs hatch in about 15 days, and in a very short time the garden is overrun with the pests In a small area the snails may be collected by hand and destroyed, but when in a larger area and in large numbers the snails are best controlled by spraying or dusting the plants, or by the use of poisoned baits. A poisoned bate consisting of lib of calcium arsenate or Paris green, and islb bran is recommended. It is essential that the Paris green should be thoroughly stirred dry with the bran until the whole is thoroughly mixed. Sufficient water is then added to make a damp crumbly mash. This bait is scattered in a thin layer on the soil along the rows of affected plants and other situations where the snails congregate. The bait should be applied late in the afternoon or at. night to ensure its being moist, as it is useless in a dry condition. This bait proves effective, but may not kill the snails in appreciable numbers for two or three days. Another method is to spray the plants with arsenate of lead powder, ljlb to 40 gallons of water, or arsenate of lead paste. 31b to 40 gallons of water. Dusting the affected parts with lib of arsenate of lead powder diluted with 41b hydrated or slaked lime dust, finely sieved, can be recommended. Boards set out at intervals and baited beneath with portions of boiled potato form attractive traps, where the snails will congregate and shelter by day, and can be destroyed in numbers. CUTTING BACK ASPARAGUS As tsoon as the foliage of the asparagus is completely dead, but on no account before—it should be cut down to within an inch of the soil. Then, especially if the soil is light, a thin layer of well decayed manure—not sufficient to exclude air, but just enonugh to protect the roots from the severities of winter and to give some help to them by the rain washing the goodness out of the manure into the ground—may be Eipplied. To make the bed look neat during the winter months, a light covering of soil might be applied, obtained by lightly forking up the alleys between the beds. This sqfil can be pulverised with the back of the spade and scattered over the surface of the bed. Beside giving a neat appearance, this will help to keep in the value of the manure. As the work of cutting down the foliage proceeds, any plants which have failed or died out should be noted and the spot mo iked by driving in a stake, so that whend planting time comes these gaps can be made good. There is also one other point upon which the economical grower will have his c.ve. and that deals witn the round red berries which hang so plentifully from the bougrs. These contain small black seeds for sowing in the spring. By growing these on for a year or two, one could put down a large new plantation at practically no cost. PLANT VEGETABLES NOW Seeds of turnip, radish, spinach and mustard and cress, if planted now, will give quick results this autumn. Sow liberal quantities of seed, and do not be in a hurry to thin out. Wait till the young carrots are about the thickness of a slate pencil, then thin out to two inches apart.

WINTER REMINDERS The soil should be deeply dug, trenched or ridged up when the weather permits. Ground that is to be planted in the spring may be manured.

Young fruit trees and bushes of all kinds should be planted. Established fruit trees may be pruned according to their special requirements. Distinguish carefully between the fruit-buds and the leaf-buds. Also remember that fruits are borne on the young wood in the case of black currants, peaches, nectarines, cherries, etc., and on the older wood in the case of red and white currants, sweet cherries, apples, pears, etc. Prune and clean old vines. Finish the lifting of such roots as carrots and beet. Parsnips are better left in the ground to be pulled as required. A sowing of broad beans may be risked this month. AH kinds of deciduous trees and shrubs may be planted now, also bulbs and spring-flowering plants. This is the best time of the year to plant roses with the possible exception of teas, which in cold localities may be held over until August. Privet hedges may be clipped. All climbing and wall plants should be carefully nailed or tied up, and old stems which no longer flower well and are bare near the ground may be cut out; but no other pruning should be done. Continue to give as much ventilation as possible in a glasshouse or a frame. Only in foggy or very bitter weather should the structure be kept closed during the best hours of the day. Leaves as they fall should be swept from paths and lawn and carefully stored for the making of leaf-mould or use in the formation of a hot-bed.

GARDENING JOBS FOR WET DAYS Wet days are generally associated with the dull, gloomy days of winter, so that the amateur gardener looks, round for something to do. “Digging in this weather,” he says, “is foolish; but what am I to do?” Below are set out some of the jobs he can tackle, which will occupy his time with pro fitable result. Firstly, tools can be cleaned and repaired. The most important, perhaps, are the barrow, lawnmower, roller and the various digging implements. Inspect these, and remedy any defects which are noted. If the handles of tools are loose, a. little glue, or a wedge will make them firm. Then the syringe plunger will need some vaseline, or it may require a new washer. Look around and you will see plenty of jobs among the tools. When this is done, on taking a walk outside, when the rain is temporarily abated, you may see pools of water lying on the surface of the lawn. Prick the soil with the prongs of the fork to effect drainage. While outside, the drain could be cleared and any dead leaves removed from plants. Another important job is to roll paths, laying new ash or gravel down, if needed. Of course, the roller will pick up a lot of the path, so a brush should be kept handy.

Assuming you have done all this, there is the very pleasant occupation of making things. Among the foremost of these are seed protectors, racks, boxes and labels. Soot and lime distributors can be made from tins with holes punched in the top. If you already have seed boxes, make sure they are safe, by nailing two strips of wood across the bottoms. One thing which should not be forgotten is to look at the store room, and if any vegetables are going bad or shooting, remove them at once. Before finishing here are a few things you can do if you have a greenhouse or a frame. You can whitewash walls, clean glass, scrub boards, and paint pipes. The woodwork and glass can be repaired where necessary. All this done, it will give you satisfaction.

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/SUNAK19280616.2.222

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 382, 16 June 1928, Page 28

Word count
Tapeke kupu
1,296

HOW TO KILL SNAILS AND SLUGS Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 382, 16 June 1928, Page 28

HOW TO KILL SNAILS AND SLUGS Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 382, 16 June 1928, Page 28

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