Frills Ads & Oibles

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 370, 2 June 1928, Page 21

Frills Ads & Oibles

Special Feature supplied exclulsvely to THE SOS. Auckland, by The Ventral Press, Fleet Street, London.

Vogues and Vagaries

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The persistent revival of old-world themes and fabrics has its corollary in the special selection of mannequins who can do justice to such styles. At all the big shows the parades of picture frocks are an unwearying attraction, thanks to this featuring of perfect Victorian types, plus the added charm of modernity. One lovely “show” lady, for instance, enhanced the Intrinsic allure of chine silk in a parchment tone of white, woven with floral posies in most unusual pastel red, pinks, blues and greens. A very bouffant skirt was of the infanta inspiration, the fullness being kept on the hips, while the short, quaintlyrounded corsage had a normal waistline. Extraordinarily attractive, too, were the skilful touches of black. A black velvet bow fell on to the skirt from the left of the waistline, and edges of velvet bordered the corsage “tucker” of black net, this same net also forming a wide hem to the skirt.

The introduction of the motif en noir is a feature of the current mode where the robe de fantaisie is concerned. Black taffetas edged one of the prettiest gowns in a recent collection —an affair of bright chai’treusegreen georgette—and the note was emphasised by a big black moire bew at. the side. Green and black make a peculiarly happy alliance, and the dressmakers are sponsoring any number of such harmonies during this obviously “green” season, with lime, almond and chartreuse heading the list.

The magpie combine, too, is so fashionable that one leading designer recently underlined the black and white mode, so to speak, with a Dalmatian dog. which accompanied the wearer of one of her most triumphant black and white creations.

Large black spots on a white ground are wonderfully effective for the jumper-blouse that is the corsage complement of the chic black satin suit. Scarcely less popular Is a white spot on a black or navy ground.

The bouffant skirts and fitting corsages, the quaint frills and flounces of an ancient mode skilfully camouflaged by new-style dressmaking art, are obviously and inevitably exercising an influence on millinery modes, which tend to be somewhat ahead of corresponding changes in coiffure. The newest hats are full of “line,”

Madame Jeanne Varrez)

and curved brims attain, both to picturesqueness and to dignity. Many new straws, such as “cellaphane” and “baku,” are ingeniously mixed with strands of feather-weight felt. One sees a cloche of tulle, inexpressibly dainty, embroidered with insertions of felt applique, all in black. Trimmings range in novelty from cork to cretonne.

Every other coat illustrates the universal tucking vogue, the tucks being narrow, and usually diagonal. A typical black coat —accompanying a “magpie” frock—was made with graduated tucks from coat-collar to hem. There is a distinct revival of the mode ordaining coat-linings to match frocks that was so much the vogue a few seasons since. Narrow military collars appear on many coats and coatfrocks. There was also quite a considerable proportion of raglan sleeves in a recent display.

There is no doubt that one of the most fascinating novelties of the season is the suit in crepe or shantung. Such suits are semi-sporting —and wholly decorative; and colour, as well as cut and fabric, plays its part in the amazing success that has greeted their innovation. The skirts are very varied; mostly pleated in new ways, in pleats of all shapes and sizes, but ingeniously arranged from a remarkably well-shaped yoke, so tjiat they fit close as well as flaunt and flare. Sometimes a jumper is worn, or a simple cardigan; but all are in harmony. For “pukka” sport there was one adorable angora model, comprising a yellow box-pleated skirt, a white jumper, the hem of which was woven with the yellow, and a yellow and white mixture cardigan. Representative of the decorative category was one exquisite little suit in two tones of apricot crepe de chine. A finely pleated skirt, with border of paler apricot, had a jumper entirely pleated, and bound all round with a band of the paller tone, the neckline and bishop sleeves being finished with dainty bows of the same. It is increasingly apparent that this is to be a “cape” year. Both by day and in the evening every form of graceful cape is seen. Sometimes loose sleeves are added, which turns the cape into a coatee.