FRILLS ADS & OIBLES

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 361, 23 May 1928, Page 5

FRILLS ADS & OIBLES

! Special Feature supplied excluisvely to THE SUX Auckland. \by The Central Press, \ Fleet Street, London.

Vogues and Vagaries

(By

Madame Jeanne Varrez

Gradually, very gradually. Pai is> »s disclosing her secrets, but once again it is evident that La Mode is to launch nothing very startling on a waiting world. Modern Woman has made such a consistent bid for simplicity, that the silhouette, despite wider skirts, is now more or less standardised. The law of smartness decrees that frocks in contrasting colours may be worn with the long coat, though the ensemble of absolutely-matching coat', and dress will still hold its place in fashion's hierarchy. The contrail: idea is a boon to light purses, however, and is sure to be popular, since it permits one coat to be used with any number of “little” frocks, provided the colours do really make a contrast in the harmonious sense, and do not clash with that of the coat. Obviously the wise choice is a wrap of neutral colour, and it is good news that the fine plain tweed coat, with a tailored collar, will be supremely smart wear. Such a garment is invaluable, and solves the one-coat-and many frocks Problem tout de suite. The greater originality is undoubtedly to be observed in the evening rather than the daytime modes which latter can be roughly classified into coat and frock ensemoles. tailleurs. and jumper-suUs. Where the !'obe de soiree is concerned. La Mode is making material changes in both senses of the word Fabrics that have enjoyed a long popularity, such as chiffon, georgette, anjl crepe sat».i will he rather relegated to the background in favour of heavier materials Moire takes a conspicuous place among these; so does a new. very thick and heavy satin. The adjectives may be ■misleading. Wherefore let it be added

that they are comparative terms only. In reality, though they are thick as compared with the filmy fashions of the recent past, they are nevertheless extremely soft and pliant. A fact that becomes beautifully and most gracefully obvious in the slim outlines they achieve, and this despite much fuller skirts. A number of the uew evening models in moire or heavy satin illustrate the vogue for uneven hems that is still more exaggerated than during the past season And waistlines are considerably higher, in most cases, too, the big loops or bows, poised on the tiip as trimming, attain almost to uniform style, so übiquitous is this form of embellishment. No amount of uniformity. however, can destroy the effect ; at once graceful and dignified. And it is a vogue that will be given a special welcome by the no-longer-so-young woman for whom the very 'lmy inodes were too slight and diaphanous. While it is still early days to talk authoritatively of the most modish evening colours, one may mention the shade known as “honey," for which there is a positive craze. It was often seen in evening footwear last season, and is a charming tint. That the higher waistline is a fait accompli is evidenced in the Riviera models, which illustrate it in practically every design. In quite a number of instances the waist is placed definitely in the normal position. But the more prevalent tendency is to define the waistline just below this point. Belts, however, will conform to the natural waistline vogue, and a belted frock thus exemplifying a mode of an older day will not be at all “out of it” this season, though it would have looked quite bizarre some little while ago, among the legions of low waistlines.