Your B.S.A.- Its Care and Maintenance

Sun (Auckland), Volume I, Issue 308, 20 March 1928, Page 6

Your 8.5. A- . Care and Maintenance

A SUN special feature to assist the owner-driver to obtain the maximum results in performance by the proper care and treatment of his car.

The most important functioning part of the motor-cycle is the engine, therefore the correct lubrication of this is the most important point to remember in the care and maintenance of your machine. These instructions apply particularly to the 4.9 O.H.V. motor. A very thorough lubrication system is provided on this engine. Cast integral with the crankcase and surrounding the flywheel chamber at front underneath and at the rear is a sump, the capacity of which is three pints. The gear driven pump is submerged in an extension of the sump. The rotation of the pump delivers filtered oil to the big end bearing through passages cut in the crankcase, timingcover, mainshaft, flywheel and crankpin. After lubricating the big-end the oil reaches the other parts of the engine by splash. The oil supply is controlled by a valve on the intake side of the pump.* For ordinary running this should be opened (turned to the leftj from three-quarters to one complete turn. If the exhaust smokes too much, close the valve a little. Check the oil level in the sump regularly by means of the dipper. When the level falls to the notch marked “1” the sump should be filled up wtli a pint of oil. Use Mobiloil B or Double Shell. It is a good policy to flush the crankcase with kerosene two or three times a year. The little extra expense in filling up again with fresh oil is very soon repaid by the sweeter running of the engine. For Oiling Gearbox. —Unscrew the filler plug at the front of the gearbox and also remove the oil level plug. Fill with Mobiloil C, or Shell Gear oil, until it reaches the level of the plug hole in the end plate, working the

kick-starter once or twice to remove air bubbles. Refill with oil every 500 miles. After every 1,500 miles’ running, thoroughly flush the gearbox with kerosene. To do this the machine should be placed on the stand. Start the engine, engage the top gear in the usual way, and release clutch. Carefully drain by means of the plug provided, and then fill up with oil to the correct level. Jt is important that the valve clearances should be correct. They should be tested every 250 miles, and when the engine is cold. Check with a set of feeling gauges—for ordinary running the clearance should be 3-1000 in. The valve timing of the engine should not be tampered with in any way, as the makers’ setting is that which has been found to give the best results. A grease-gun is supplied with the kit, and with it, the machine should be gone over regularly. Lubricate the front fork Tink bearings every 250 miles or weekly. It is advisable to remove both chains periodically. They should be thoroughly cleaned in petrol, then dried. Warm them for some time at about the temperature of boiling water in a mixture of grease and graphite. After they have cooled wipe off the excess lubricant. This should be repeat *cl every 1,000 miles. The life of a machine is increased, and its appearance and value greatly improved by regular and careful attention to cleaning. Special care should be taken to prevent grit working into the moving parts and causing undue wear and other troubles. Particularly is this the case round the front, rear and sidecar hubs, carburettor, magneto, valve stems, tappets, brakes and gearbox. What to do every week: Adjust tappets if necessary. Lubricate chassis, front and rear hubs, head, clutch and brake operating parts, and in fact, all moving joints. See that oil tank has plenty of oil. If sidecar outfit, adjust sidecar wheel bearings. The time spent on these little adjustments is well repaid later on by the longer life of all wearing parts.