Your A.J.S.—

Sun (Auckland), Volume I, Issue 290, 28 February 1928, Page 7

Your A.J.S. —

Its Care and Maintenance

SUN special feature to assist the owner-rider to obtain the maximum results in performance by the proper care and treatment of his motor-cycle . The most important functioning part of any motor-cycle is the engine, therefore the correct lubrication of this is naturally the most important point to remember in the care and maintenance of your machine. The automatic mechanical lubrication of the engine of the A.J.S. is on the “dry sump’* principle. A gear driven pump draws oil from the tank on the down-tub© and supplies a predetermined quantity to the cam box and to the big end. After lubricating the cams and rocker gear, the oil flows into the chain-case and lubricates the chain, and half-time gears, and then falls into the sump by gravity. Oil is pumped to the connecting rod big end via passages in the driving-side main shaft: and web of fly-wheel, and oil thrown from the big end by centrifugal force lubricates the cylinder walls and the small end of connecting rod. Surplus oil flowers by gravity into the sump from whence it is pumped back into the tank, so that oil is constantly being circulated throughout all the working parts of the engine. Every moving part of the engine is enclosed, and automatically and mechanically lubricated. For very high, continuous all-out speeds, a pre-determined quantity of oil may be passed direct to the cylinder walls by the turn of a needle valve. Other than periodically draining the sump and tank, and cleaning the filter, instructions re lubrication are: “Fill tho oil tank with oil, then forget lubrication until the tank requires replenishing.’* It is essential to flush the crankcase with kerosene every 700 miles or so, to wash out any impurities or sludge. The little extra expense of filling with fresh oil is very soon repaid by the sweet running of the engine which follows and the longer life of the bearings. Always use a first-class oil, as it will always work out cheaper in the end. The same oil as used for the engine is recommended for the gearbox, so there is no need to stock st veral grades of oil. To get longer service out of your chains, it is advisable to take them oif, say, once in 1,000 miles, and soak in kerosene after cleaning'. Then give them a good oiling before refitting. Most riders are apt to adjust chains much too tightly, the correct adjustment being to allow about half to three-quarters of an inch up and down movement between sprockets. Considerable vibration is sometimes caused on handlebars and grips, that is often put down as engine vibration, but is really caused by loose steering head bearings. With a sidecar on a machine it is sometimes hard to note whether the bearing is loose, as it has to be very badly out of adjustment before it rattles sufficiently to be noticeable. The front wheel should be jacked up while adjustment is being made: bearings should have no shake, but should be sufficiently free to turn easily. What to do every week: Adjust tappet rods if necessary. Imbricate chassis, front and rear hubs, head, clutch and brake operating parts, and, in fact, all moving joints. See that oil tank has plenty of oil. If sidecar outfit adjust sidecar wheel bearings. The time spent on these little adjustments is well repaid later on by th© longer life of all wearing parts.

Removing Tar Spots Tar splashes on cars may be removed I quickly with eucalyptus oil. The oil, when applied with a soft cloth, immej diately softens old and dry tar spots, ! and effectively removes them without 'in any way injuring the surface which ] the tar disfigures. During the cleaning process, the tar-stained cloth should : be discarded for a new one as soon 'a« soiled. The oil should be applied liberally, the cleaning commencing at the boundary of the stain and proceeding toward the centre.