Your Austin— Its Care and Maintenance

Sun (Auckland), Volume I, Issue 154, 20 September 1927, Page 7

Your Austin — Its Care and Maintenance

a SUN special feature to assist the owner-driver to obtain the maximum results in performance by the proper care and treatment of his car.

The importance of giving careful attention and regular inspection to the 'modern motor-car cannot be overestimated* If this is done systematically considerably greater pleasure will be derived from motoring, as the car will always be kept in tune, and will not require adjusting at inopportune .moments. The Austin owner has included in his car equipment an excellent instruction book, which he should study and follow to the letter. We are giving here a few hints and general talk on the car. which should help the amateur driver to get more pleasure out of his car. A suitable oil for the gear-box is the same as that used in the engine. In the ordinary way very little will be used, nevertheless it is advisable to keep the oil at its correct level. As a guide in this matter, on the “Twelve” and “Twenty” a tap is provided on the side of the box which can easily be turned on to see if there is any flow, as there will be if too much oil has been poured in. In the case of the “Seven/* the level can be measured by a rod inserted through the filler hole. Should the level be low, it should be replenished to the correct height, which never exceeds 2£ inches. It is advisable not to fill beyond this level, as oil is then likely to leak from the bearings. In the instruction book it is recommended that the gear box should occasionally, say every 4000 or 5000 miles, be washed with paraffin.

The rear axle is best lubricated with a mixture of yellow grease and engine oil in equal parts. Here again very little lubricant is used. A fresh charge is required after about 1500 miles: actually in the case of the larger models, after 2000 to 3000 miles would be sufficient. If this unit is given a regular supply, worries will he reduced to a minimum.

To prevent troubles arising from over lubrication, special provision is made at the rear hubs to drain off surplus lubricant, and keep it from getting on to the brakes. When lubricant is seen coming out of these holes or extruding from the rear universal joint, it can be taken that the axle is more than fully charged. Easy steering is essential, especially on long tours, and it is therefore of vital importance that both the steering box on the chassis, and the various connections should have regular attention, and it may be advisable to err on the side of frequency rather than wait a long period for a general overhaul. The only mechanism of the clutch calling for lubrication is the operating or withdrawal sleeve.. As this is fitted with a ball thrust hearing a small amount of lubricant at regular intervals is all that is necessary. It is of the utmost importance that the clutch surface should be kept free from oil or grease*

The other remaining chassis components which consist chiefly of the universal joint, hubs, spring shackles, control gear, etc., should be greased or oiled in accordance with the instruction book.

Regarding the road springs on the “Twelve* 5 and “Twenty” model, these are supplied with a spring gaiter. This prevents water and road grit from working between the leaves, and at the same time if oil is supplied regularly, it keeps the surfaces lubricated, and greater comfort is obtained. In the Austin Seven the ends of the road springs where they are attached to the axles are provided with grease gun connections, and should be given a charge once a week if the car is continually used. After a long period of

use it is advisable to lubricate the leaves of the spring with a warm mixture of white lead and tallow- m equal parts. This can best be applied with a stiff brush, the leaves being eased apart by a screwdriver; first jack up the car (not under the axles) to take the weight off the springs. A list is given of parts that should be tightened up or examined with a view to eliminating what are usually known as body squeaks and rattles. In the first place tighten up thoroughly all bolts by which the body is attached to the chassis frame. The bonnet is attached to a rod—one end of which is screwed into the frame carrying the radiator, the other end passing through the dashboard, with a lock nut on each side- Thoroughly tighten these nuts, also tighten the tw-o wing nuts which hold the bonnet centre hinge down to the rod we have just mentioned.

Rub a little thick grease on to the Ferodo or leather bonnet rest, as a most elusive “click** is very often clue to the bonnet rubbing on this rest as the body twists on uneven roads. Greasing the bonnet rest plate where the bottom of the bonnet passes over it will help the bonnet to fall nicely into place. Should there be any movement here it will also prevent a squeak. See that the jack, if carried in the holder under the bonnet is quite tight. At certain engine speeds the pinion of the jack may rattle; this can easily be stopped by allowing a piece of rag or flannel to be wound between the teeth, as the jack is tightened in its carrier. See that the jack handle, if carried in the place provided under ithe bonnet, is a good fit. A flat spring will be found attached to the back of the dashboard, immediately above the hole through which the plain end of the handle passes; this spring may have become slightly strained. If so, bend it down just sufficiently to ensure that, just before the handle falls into the catch at the forward end, tension is put on (the flat springs). Make sure that there are no loose tools in the metal receptable for the tool roll, attached to the back of ithe dashboard, inside of the scuttle-

Apply a little lubricant to the ball end of the bonnet fastener, w-here it is anchored to the bonnet rest plate. (This does not apply in the case of all models.) Tighten up all the bolts which attach the bonnet rest plate to the frame, and the front wings to this plate. Go over the nuts securing the dashboard to the angle plate—the foot of which is attached to the bonnet rest.

See that the nuts holding the sloping toe plate to the dashboard are tight. Examine all the nuts by means of which the various fittings are attached to the dashboard. Make sure that the head and side lamps are well secured to their brackets. A most annoying rattle w-ill come from the head lamps if the cap nuts, by w-hich the lamps are secured to the body, are not quite tight. Care should be taken in folding down the hood to see that the original folds are used.

Should the car have been used in wet weather leave the hood up to dry. Never fold when wet. Never use petrol for cleaning leather, but wash with white castile soap and when dry rub it over with a soft rag and a few drops of olive oil. Give a few drops of lubricating oil occasionally to the locks and hinges. The metal plated parts can be cleaned with ordinary metal polish. The tyre pressure for seven horsepower models is 201 b front and rear. For 12 h.p. tourers and saloon models the pressures 21 and 28.