FRILLS FADS FOIBLES

Sun (Auckland), Volume I, Issue 152, 17 September 1927, Page 19 (Supplement)

FRILLS FADS FOIBLES

PARISIAN FASHIONS

What Leading Houses Show

A DISTINGUISHED SIMPLICITY

AX old-established and leading couturier of Paris recently thus gave out his views on dress.

“Fashions are always changing,” he said. “One of our problems is to keep up with the demand. It is certain that simple dresses with symmetrical lines are needed now. But simplicity of line and symmetrical effects are the hardest of all things to achieve—far more so than apparently elaborate frocks.” MARCEL ROCHAS The Maison Lenief, although o;

Monsieur Marcel Rochas, the youngest of Parisian conturists, is an artist whose gifts in designing such creations is’ unrivalled. He is now showing gowns that nobody but a genius could have achieved. They are examples of the art which conceals art, for the most intricate simplicity is exemplified, and is so exactly right that the beholder cannot realise the difficulties which have been overcome. Beige is the popular colour in his many dresses; grey is plentiful, and black and yellow are also in the picture.

Skirts are not very much longer than last season, but the waist line is higher. The sports wear also is delightful, and includes an infinite variety of jumpers and jerseys. It is hard to particularise, says an English correspondent, among so many beautiful frocks, but in my mind’s eye still is the image of an evening coat of ermine—also a beaded evening dress. But they should be seen to be properly appreciated. DRECOLL The old and celebrated house of Drecoll has many charms. One of them is the almost illimitable variety of

the models shown there. Whether the visitor be short or tall, dark or fair, a dream of loveliness, or just an ordinary woman, she .will be sure to find the gown which is designed for her, and her alone. Drecoll’s prophecies—they generally come true—are that black and beige are to be fashionable colours this season, and that velvet will be a favourite material. Tulle is much used now for evening wear for young girls. Skirts are slightly longer and fuller, and bodices are narrower. A particularly pretry dress for debutantes was made of shell-pink and sky-blue tulle, fairy-like of texture and design. It had a close-fitting bodice, and a blue silk ribbon sash, tied with a simple bow at the waist. The skirt was unusually full, and had a columbine effect. There were also some very attractive costumes for sports wear. One of them was a Red Hussar coat, worn with a full fluted white skirt. Two others had long trousers and high collars. These had a distinctive charm and would be ideal for ski-ing or toboganning, or other winter sports. Among the fur coats was a most engine 1 one of kid trimmed with astrakhan. Another was of grey squirrel, lined with mauve, worn over a mauve dress. A strikingly smart motor coat must be mentioned. It was made of lizard skin, and both chic and practical. Among the multitude of charming toilettes, a salmon-pink velvet dressing gown, with angel sleeves of silver lace, was entrancing. Also a seagreen pyjama suit of Turkish design, with a mauve and green shot silk dressing gown. Capes are very much in vogue for evening wear. At Brecon's I saw one of yellow panne velvet with very wide sleeves, and trimmed with black fur; the tea gown to match being simply draped. This model would be ideal for a tall, dark woman. Another model, called “Lido.” was a yellow crepe georgette, draped in graceful lines. Two lengths of the material fell from the shoulders, forming a train. LENIEF Yet another beautiful salon is Lenief’s. on the Rue St. Honore. Here recently a beautiful and wonderful array of models was exhibited. Two hundred gowns, costumes, wraps and coats—each of them vied with another in delightfulness.

The Maison Lenief, although only a few years old, has already acquired a world-wide reputation among the leading dressmakers. This season it has engaged a new designer, who has every reason to feel proud of the gowns now exhibited.

Long skirts are prevalent. Waists have a tendency to be higher. Purple is the favourite colour with Lenief. In many instances it is blended with green. Black, grey, navy blue and beige are also very prominent. Lame or brocade is used extensively. So are velvet and tulle. There were several very simple little frocks of navy blue repp, with touches of colour at the neck and wrists. Others were of green and beige, black and white, and brown and yellow, in a velvet-cheeked material, with full plain skirts, slightly bloused bodices, and gay belts of red, green, or gold. In direct contrast to these plain dresses, Lenief presents many gorgeous gowns. One of them had a full black tulle skirt over a silver lame slip; long, narrow hands of lame fell from the waist to the edge of the dress. The bodice was of silver.

Among the beautiful fur-lined coats was a magnificent one of green velvet. The gown beneath it was made of sil-

ver lame, with a long, full skirt and long, close-fitting sleeves of the same material, and a green bodice dotted with silver. Several of the other vel-vet-draped evening frocks had one shoulder strap composed of rhinstones. A practical overcoat was named after the famous Transatlantic airman. Another striking novelty is a wonderful fur cape “Vice-versa,” so called because it can be worn equally well on either side —that of the material of the fur lining.

Perhaps if one can make distinctions among lovely things—the most lovely exhibit of all was a coat and skirt named “Mon Choix,” in “old blue” cloth and fur. It was trimmed in such a manner as to recall the daintiest Wedgwood art. This creation was admired by all.