Picturesque Atolls of the Pacific Life is Easy in the Gilbert Islands

Sun (Auckland), Volume I, Issue 140, 3 September 1927, Page 24

Picturesque Atolls of the Pacific Life is Easy in the Gilbert Islands

TJE*"WPS*IFr« HE Gilbert Islands are a group of 16 atolls lined nVlvi from three degrees Eorth to about four degrees south of the 1&W, Equator, their total area being about 170 square miles. Atolls are of coral formation, but only a few feet above the level of the sea, although huge mountains or rather submarine volcanoes are their foundation. On the brim of the crater the madrepores build their coral home in the form of trees with infinitely small ramifications till they reach only a few inches below the surface of low tide. Then by the action of waves this huge coral tree is covered by sand and occasionally various kinds of plant and tree seeds, adrift in the ocean, are washed ashore. The vegetation upon atolls is, in fact, similar to the shore vegetation of

bigger tropical countries. The atolls, chain fashion, are linked together, making circular or horseshoe shapes surrounding lakes of deep water and these lagoons may be a few miles to 50 miles apart and some 100 miles in circumference. These islands, with the Ellice group, were formed into a protectorate by the British in 1593 and then, in 1915, with Ocean Island, distant some 300 miles, were declared the Crown Colony of the Gilbert and Ellice Islands. They are administered by a Resident Commissioner under the High Commissioner for the Western Pacific in Fiji. The new arrival who has been puzzled on the deck of the approaching vessel by seeing this flat and

Written for THE SUS by C. B. da PERTUI

endless chain of coco-nuts is absolutely astonished when coming ashore to see a most wonderful tropical vegetation and feels at once a quiet and mysterious charm. The neat ness of the roads which run from one end to the other of the islands allows him to jump on a bicycle and visit the different villages. These atolls are only a mile or two in width and from 20 to 70 miles in length. The villages are practically all built on the lagoon side; the weather side being too exposed to the continuous trade winds, and the lagoon being the real life centre of the whole island. Each island extending north to south and the easterly winds prevailing practically all the year round, it is easy to reach any part with a sailing canoe. These craft are wonderfully well built and able to attain a really good speed. The Gilbert Islander has brought canoe-building to a fine art and is a born sailor. In the old days each family used to live separately upon its own land and under the same roof. The house was of great proportions, and each child, when married, could easily accommodate his new family at the “old home.” The daily toil of the islanders comprises fishing, taro cultivation and the cutting of toddy. But when the pandanus trees are in fruit then the whole family “gets busy” collecting and preparing this important food. These pandanus fruits are cooked and made into a paste. This paste is extended on small mats, dried under the sun and kept in a dry place. When the season is nearly over, each cake is made crisp on a smart fire, crushed into fine powder and finally put into long tubes made with pandanus leaves. This powder may be kept for years, and in time of need, mixed with water, it will prove a highlvnutritious, refreshing and agreeable drink.

The toddy is the daily morning tea of an islander. A cut is made in the stalk of the coco-nut flower; a wisp of coco-nut fibre is tied around it and bent down, so that the milk that comes out will drop into a cup. As this milk is the sap of the coco-nut which forms the nuts it contains much nourishment and is sweet in taste. Mixed with water, it forms a delicious beverage. If allowed to stand for a few hours, the toddy becomes a highly intoxicating drink. So whatever is left is at once cooked in coco-nut shells and turned into a thick molasses for use when the family is travelling.

Taro cultivation plays a great part in the life of these islanders. As

their particular species of taro grr,.. only in water they have to dig eit * 8 sive pitches, eight to 12 feet deeic obtain the brackish water necess**? These pitches are usually constructs in the centre of the island, and wh” water is struck, any available hntanis brought in and the taro plants Each plant is tenderly cared for a/, is regularly surrounded by a layer f dead leaves and fresh humus. a ,_y well cared for may be eaten after ft! first year, but as a rule it is growjl for a number of years before it T? tains respectable size. 1 have seea taro measuring three feet in and over one foot in diameter. The?* are the pride of the grower, and ar»

A Gilbert village, seen from a lagoon. only brought forth in big celebrations. The taste is certainly sui generis and strange to a European palate, but the islander always prefers it to any other vegetable, even the best potato. As a variation, cooked taro is made in a paste mixed with coco-nut milk anti toddy, wrapped in leaves and roasted on hot stones. In this form, it is served as a dainty dish and is the national pudding. Coco-nut takes a prominent place in the Gilbert Islanders’ diet. They call it their natural butter and no doubt it gives a special flavour to their food, chiefly to fish. This reminds me of the story of a white man who was explaining to a Gilbert Islander how good the Creator had been in providing for them ample food with no work attached to the securing of it, the coco-nut practically falling quite ripe, in front of their doors. "It is true,” retorted the native seri ously, “hut still your Creator never thought to put fish inside the coco nut!”