HOW TO GROW CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 110, 30 July 1927, Page 26

HOW TO GROW CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS

There are more failures in the raising of flower seeds than in any other branch of garden work. Plow many times do we exclaim, “Oh, that must have been old seed”? I am afraid the poor seedsmen get blamed every time. Certainly sometimes the seed may be bad, but more often the fault lies in the way they are sown and the attention they receive. The few following instructions are dedicated to the amateurs who never seem to be successful in seed propagation. Soil. —In the first place the nature of the soil claims attention. For the larger class of seeds, such as nasturtium, sweet peas, etc., ordinary garden mould is suitable; but to sow the finer seeds # it is necessary to have the soil of fine consistency, freely mixed with sand, and, if possible, leaf mould or well-rotted turf. The surface should be raked very smooth, and, if dry, watered gently about an hour before sowing the seed. Sowing.—When considerable breadth is required, it is desirable to sow all hardy seeds where they are intended

to flower; but in the case of tender sorts, and when only a small number of plants are wanted, it is always best to sow in specially prepared beds or boxes, and then transplant. When the seeds are sown it is advisable to press the soil lightly down, so as to hold them in position, while the radicle, or first root, is pushed down into the ground. We would impress on amateurs the benefit of sowing thinly: thick sowingcauses the young seedlings to become “drawn” and has the effect of making “leggy” and unhealthy plants. For the cultivation of the finer strains of seeds, such as primulas, calceolarias, cinerarias, etc., some slight extra care is necessary; the trouble will be amply repaid, however, by the quality of the produce. They should be sown in seed pans or pretty large pots, great attention being paid to the drainage. The soil must be made very fine on the top, and the seed thinly scattered. Do not cover the seeds with earth, but lay a piece of obscured glass, or, better still, a sheet of brown paper, over the

pot; place in a cool greenhouse, near the glass, and when the plants appear I attend very carefully to watering: pot j out the young plants into “thumb” I pots when strong enough to handle, and give a moderately cool, even temperature, protecting them thoroughly from cold winds and sudden changes. Depth to Sow.—As to the proper depth to sow seed there can be no hard-and-fast rule drawn, but it may be laid down as a rule that no flower seeds should be put more than Jin below the surface; indeed, most varieties will be sufficiently covered at a depth of sin, only the very large sorts requiring more. Fine seed, such as a j lobelia, mimulus, etc., require no covering beyond what is given by pressing the soil down after sowing. Time to Sow.—Hardy annuals are those which may be sown in the open borders during auturftn or spring, requiring no protection, such as candituft, ealliopsis, centaurea, chrysanthemum. dianthus, gaillardia, larkspur, lobelia, marigold, mignonette, nasturtium, phlox, stock, and a large collection of others, both tall and dwarf, of almost every shade and colour. Half-Hardy and Tender Annuals are those which, if sown during autumn or early spring, require the aid of artificial heat, frame, or bell grass, and also require protection until they are sufficiently strong to bear transplanting into the open border. They may also be sown in the open ground late in spring, when the weather is sufficiently warm to be suitable to their constitution. We will name a few of the most admired: Aster, balsam, celosia, mina lobata, portulaca, zinnia, etc. Half-Hardy Biennials and Perennials. —These are best sown during the months of September to December. Hardy Biennials and Perennials may be sown either autumn or spring. Transplanting may be done in most cases when the young plants have made the second pair of leaves, but with half-hardy and tender varieties it is advisable to prick them out at this stage fnto “thumb” pots, three to five plants in a pot, and keep them well sheltered before finally transplanting them. Watering.—Careful and judicious watering is a great point in the cultivation of flowers. Of course, no rule can be laid down, but it is necessary to keep the surface always moist, especially before the seeds have vegetated. The neglect of half an hour may ensure a complete failure in the case of nearly all the small seeds. Always use a fine rose Avatering-can, so as to prevent beating down or Avashing away the young plants. When the plants are flowering they will require frequent watering if the Aveather be dry. An occasional Avatering with weak liquid manure Avill tend to prolong their flowering, and increase the size and brilliancy of the floAvers: where the soil is poor liquid manure Avatering is in- , dispensable. SAY IT WITH VEGETABLES I ask you, reader, can you give To me a reason, pray, Why Ave should a cabbage use A message to convey. Or Avhy we should not, let us say. A Avished-for favour seek By sending as our messenger A pungent, healthful leek. For though a rose, I oAvn, is much More fragrant than a leek, And sightlier than a cabbage, it Could not more plainly speak. For if you grant that messages By flowers are conveyed, That vegetables have the gift Of speech can’t be gainasaid. Why, have not many actors, in More stirring days than these, From vegetables learned the AA'ill Of those they sought to please? Which proves the truth of what I have Set out so Avell above; 1.e., that vegetables can Express both hate and love. ANSWERS TO PUZZLED GARDENERS Norn De Plume, Mangere.—No. 1: The Aval nut has not the borer in the wood. The tree naturally has a pithy substance in the centre of the branches. English walnuts take many years before they come into bearing, and fruit very sparingly in Auckland. No. 2: Your Jonathan apple has in some Avay become stunted. This may have happened before you procured it. After this period there is nothing you can do except destroy or use the stock for grafting on a neAv A-ariety. No. 3: Without inspecting the nectarine it is hard to give a satisfactory reason for

non-fruiting. If only one tree plant another, this Avill probably help. When you are pruning be careful not to cut off wood carrying fruit spurs which is often done. Without inspecting the tree I cannot say further. Lime is an excellent soil cleanser; it dispels insects and fungi but should be dug in as soon as it has been broken doAvn by the atmosphere. Soap suds are too frequently undervalued; they constitute an excellent means of ridding the soil of insects and grubs. Mulching is alAvays beneficial. It not only cools the soil and checks evaporation, but proA'ides so much extra root room for the plants. The value of soot is under-estimated. This useful substance should be availed of more by the amateur who really values the results of his labours. It is a good insecticide and soil fumigant, but should be used direct from the chimney. Work it well into the surface of the soil. Lime and organic manures should never be applied together. At least three or four weeks should elapse betAveen the tAvo applications. Gravel paths, Avalks and drives often present an unsightly appearance through persistent Aveed groAvth breaking through, particularly at this time of the year. An application of caustic soda Avill clean them up thoroughly without disturbing the path in the least.

Beet as a Side Line.—The possibilities of beet sugar as a neAv industry for NeAV Zealand A\ r ere referred to by Mr. F. J. Nathan, Avhen conA r ersing A\ r ith a Press representative. While in Australia Mr. Nathan visited the Maffra (Victoria) factory, which is run by the Victorian Government, and he mentioned that it had proved a success. The industry was a seasonal one and the manufacture of sugar was in full swing in the winter-time when the beet were being pulled out. It Avas at a time Avhen ordinary farm AA'ork eases off a little, and when the dairy farmer had little or no money coming in. For the man who milked coaa t s, therefore, the growing of sugarbeet was a particularly suitable sideline. With up-to-date machinery the beet Avent in one end and sugar came out the other Avhile the pulp was available as food for cattle.