SUITABLE HEDGE PLANTS

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 104, 23 July 1927, Page 26

SUITABLE HEDGE PLANTS

July and August are the best months for planting hedge or shelter trees. Their varieties are numerous and a few suggestions to those about to plant will not come amiss. First.—Select the best and hardiest variety suitable for your locality and soil. Second. —Whenever possible plant only flowering species, as they are more effective. Third.—Feed the plant well every year after planting and water liberally during the first season. Fourth. —Keep the soil cultivated between the plants, hoeing out the weeds and grass that sometimes collects by the roots. Fifth. —Good drainage and welltrenched ground is essential. Sixth. —A neat, compact hedge is the admiration of all those who behold; therefore always give it the attention that is its due as the boundary and entrance to your mansion. The uses of hedges are various. Perhaps one of its chief works is to render shelter as a break-wind or to shut out a too inquisitive neighbour. Therefore it is best to make your selection with care, remembering that it is a permanent fence you are planting. For the front hedge never be tempted to plant trees that will grow too big or high, such as privet or eleagnus! never try to conceal a pretty garden from the public eye. Such a hedge lends no useful purpose; in fact, it becomes an unwelcome eyesore to all those who behold. When the planter has made up his mind on what purpose his hedge has to serve he may then proceed with the planting.

Remember that a hedge will occupy the ground for a number of years and that the soil will need enriching to meet the demand of the growing roots. Provision should be made for drainage and the subsoil broken up and mixed Wiin a dressing of well-rotted stable manure, care being taken to replace

the subsoil at the bottom of the trench. Procure plants of a uniform size and give each one individual attention when planting, keeping the row straight and the plants equal distance apart. HEDGE PLANTS The following list should prove a guide to hedge and shelter planters: Hedge Plants for Seaside. —Tecoma capensis, caprosma, eunonymous varigated, cup macrocarpa, hakea saligna, abelia floribunda. Hedge Plants for Frosty Districts.— Escallonia macrantha, English holly, laurel, privet (small leaf), privet (large leaf), pittosporum crassifolium, olearia fosteri. Hedge Plants for Warm North. — Tecoma capensis, purple guava, privet, large and small leaf, acmena floribunda, abelia floribunda, escallonia, hakea saligna, pittosporum, all varieties, box hedge. Tall Hedge or Shelter Trees.—Large leafed privet, small leafed privet, eleagnus, pinus insignus, cup lawsoniana, berberis vulgaris, seedless Barbary, African boxthorn, black wattle, cup macrocarpa. BEET ROOT A hardy vegetable, a native of the sea coast of South Europe. Its cultivation dates back three or four centuries before the Chirstian era. The red and white roots were known and used by the ancients, but the numbers have been greatly increased since modern times, especially since the beetroot has been cultivated largely for sugar. Beet is easily grown and has a delicious flavour. It requires an exposed, sunny situation. Even if the soil is rich it will not thrive under trees. The ground should be well trenched and manured before setting out the plants, digging the manure in 18in. deep. Seed may be sown now in drills and transplanted when the plants are 2in. high. If this is done, be careful not to damage the tap roots when lifting. Seed may also be drilled in rows lin. deep and the plants weeded out when large enough to handle. Of course, there is much more waste this way. Turnip Egyptian beet and long blood red beet are the two most popular varieties in Auckland. Salt is a splendid fertiliser in light soils and also beneficial on heavy land. Frequent hoeings during the summer months and light applications of approved fertilisers will do good. The crop on reaching maturity should be carefully lifted, taking care not to damage the hairy roots, otherwise they are apt to bleed. Do not cut or break the tops, but twist off not too near the crown of the beet. LILY OF THE VALLEY The lily of the valley thrives in a moist, partly-shaded position, especially an easterly or southerly aspect against a wall or fence. In preparing the bed, dig the soil deeply and mix well with leaf mould, old rotted wood or decayed vegetable matter. Manure is too heating. Plant the crowns firmly and top-dress the bed with a 6-inch layer of raking from the bush. This keeps the bed cool and moist in summer, besides acting as a fertiliser. It should be done each autumn, as, once established, the plant must not be disturbed. A bed of lily of the valley is very remunerative. There is always a demand for it. It can be forced with liquid cow manure, weak at first when the shoots are breaking the ground in the spring, increasing the strength at each application. Care should be taken to apply the liquid before the leaves spread, for the foliage must not be splashed. Soot water is also beneficial and keeps the plants healthy. The new shoots from the flowering crowns do not bloom until the third year. NITRATES This is a most important element in plant food, and one that calls for a

very searching examination into its action and its effect upon the organisms, which are the living workers which feed the plants. All through the life of the plant the dissection and preparation of plant food arise through the result of the living bacteria which we now know work so effectively and efficiently in the soil. It is essential that every gardener or worker of the soil should fully comprehend this very complicated and fundamental knowledge of this important part of horticultural science. ANSWERS TO PUZZLED GARDENERS

WINDOW BOX, PONSONBY.- (1) When strawberries are beginning to flower they should never be allowed to become dry. Constant watering during the summer months and a good mulching with rotted manure will help to keep the moisture in the soil. Straw may be layed along the rows and between the plants to keep the soil from dirtying the fruit. (2) Verbena is easily grown from seed. Sow in a box of sandy soil and keep moist until germination has taken place. Prepare the soil, digging in any manure available. A sunny situation is best for these plants, which should continue to flower for months on end. (3) Heuchera seed may not be obtainable in Auckland, but there are plenty of plants to be had from any of the nurserymen. I suggest you use them as a border or plant in clumps of six (6) instead of a bed. They are not high growing and so the wind will make little difference. (4) Do not shift your geraniums until the flowers are finished. Yes, they will do excellently in your window-box, provided the plants are not too large to shift. If this is the case break off some cuttings and strike fresh, sturdy plants. Geraniums bloom best from the new wood, and so strike new stock every second year. The size mentioned will do with plenty of drainage.