Queen Salote’s Sunny Island

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 104, 23 July 1927, Page 24

Queen Salote’s Sunny Island

Life Runs Very Smoothly in the Kingdom of Tonga

(Written for THE SUN by ERIC RAMSDEN). BASKING in the tropical sunlight at the Royal Palace at Nukualofa, an honoured pensioner of Queen Salote of Tonga, is the last survivor of Captain Cook. The last living touch with the great navigator, this old tortoise drowsily snoozes through the heat of day, safe in the knowledge that life no longer holds any terrors for him. At least 150 years old, and quite possibly still older, he is happy enough to sleep away the remaining years of his existence. When Captain Cook visited Tonga for the second occasion in 1777 —he was there three years earlier —he brought a pair of tortoises. One tortoise died some time later. But the other old fellow, like a well-known brand of whisky, is still going strong. The Tongans naturally prized the gifts at the hands of Cook. This survivor, nevertheless, has found life not without its excitements. On one occasion, for instance, he was almost burned to death. His ancient scales still show marks left by the tongue of the flames. AVhen Sir Joseph Carruthers, M.L.C., a former Premier of New South Wales, and a noted authority on Cook, was in Nukualofa, a few weeks ago, he was shown the tortoise by the Prince Consort Tugi. Relics of Cook

Sir Joseph was also interested to find, carefully preserved in the Royal Palace, a piece of red cloth, which

Queen Salote of Tonga wearing ceremonial robes. —Schmidt Photo. Captain Cook had given the ancestors of the present Queen. It was in an excellent state of preservation, even the nap being clearly discernible. The cloth was originally intended for a cape for the Tui Tonga of that day. It was of the type commonly used for the making of military uniforms in the days of the Georges. As red was the Royal colour, the Tongans greatly appreciated its significance. A small square was cut from this cloth many years ago and sent to the British Museum. Another small piece may be seen in the museum at Suva. The Queen of Tonga also has in her possession another piece of cloth, several naval uniform buttons, and a fragment of a chart, all of which had been presents from Cook. Sir Joseph was of the opinion that it was because of the rare handling to which the relics had been subjected that they were in such a good state of preservation. It is only on special occasions that they are shown to visitors. He likewise visited the bay in which Captain Cook careened his vessel after it had been damaged on one of the Tongan reefs. The old banyan tree to which it was attached while temporary repairs were carried out is still there. It has been rather severely hacked though by relic-seekers, and possibly will not last much longer. When Captain Cook paid a return visit to Tonga just 150 years ago this year the present kingdom was ruled by the Tui Tonga. His ancestor was believed to have been a demi-god—the son of a mortal woman and the “Lord of Heaven.” “Modern Christian State” The old tortoise now dreaming his remaining years away in Nukualofa saw the fall of the Tui Tonga, and the power of these lords spiritual—

A Tortoise that was Left By Captain Cook . . .

and temporal—wane. He has seen the rise of Taufaahu, subsequently to be known as his Majesty King George Tubou 1., the strong man of Tonga, who moulded his Polynesian brothers into a modern Christian state.

When the last Tui Tonga died in 1864, old King George let the title lapse. There was no successor to this once great office. George, a man of magnificent physique in his prime, died in 1893 at the great age of 95. The crown descended to his great-grandson, who succeeded as George Tubou 11. The second George was well known in Auckland, where the kingdom for many years has had a consular officer. The tortoise saw the second George pass away, too. In his turn he was succeeded by Salote, the present monarch, who was educated in Auckland. The queen was born in 1900. She was crowfied in solemn state in 1917.

Her husband, Prince Tugi, whom she created Prince Consort, and, latterly, Prime Minister, is a direct descendant of the old Tui Tonga. So our friend the tortoise has seen the two great families of Tonga reunited.

Tonga has a Constitution. What is more, the kingdom of Tonga has a credit of £IOO,OOO in a New Zealand bank. The people are happy and contented. Even if the Queen does drive in state behind a couple of bay mares to open her Parliament, instead of the famous Windsor white ponies, the effect is none the less impressive to her subjects. The Queen, a mighty lady now in avoirdupois, as well as in rank, and still increasing despite the fact that she is yet on the sunny side of 30, has won the respect and esteem of her people. Time was when one could wander in and out of the Royal Palace at

Nukualofa almost at will. This Is all different now. Lese Majeste has few terrors for the peaceful Tongans; yet they accord her Majesty that courtesy which her exalted position demands. The Queen probably owes a great deal to her spouse, Uiliami Tugi, whose wise guidance has been a big factor in her popularity. The Tongans did not display that hostility which characterised the British when Victoria’s Prince Consort attempted to guide the ship of State. Tugi, the Prime Minister is every whit as successful as H.R.H. Prince Tugi, Prince Consort.

At hand always is the advice and assistance of his Britannic Majesty's Agent and Consul, who controls Tonga’s “foreign policy.” The might of the British Navy has maintained for Tonga this quaint little midPacific kingdom, with its miniature Parliament, and its inscribed Constitution.

And the old tortoise dreams on. Well might one repeat, as Alice did at the behest of the Caterpillar—

“You are old,” said the youth, “and your jaws are too weak For anything tougher than suet. . . . . Pray how do you manage to do it?”