WOMAN’S OLDEST WEAR

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 83, 29 June 1927, Page 5

WOMAN’S OLDEST WEAR

FUR FASHIONS BY POPPY BACON One of the surest facts about the fashionable furs of the moment, is that the farther manufacturers can turn them from Aheir natural appearance, the happier they feel! The day of rejoicing in the possession of a length of some real fur has lost its exaltation since skins bred in a show room are as much in demand as those straight from the animal’s lair. Furs are divided into two distinct classes. There are sports furs and formal furs. That does not mean, however, in these convenient days, that sports furs may not be included in the adornment of formal toilettes, nor dressy skins on sports suits. Sports furs comprise gazelle, baby calf, giraffe, pony, shaved lamb and the übiquitous rabbit which has a habit of accommodating itself to the needs of the moment. More formal skins are mole, caracul, ermine, sable, squirrel, mink, fox and monkey. And again rabbit. Many of the most luxurious long-haired trimmings on coats are of this quite humble origin. In former days, a fur coat was sufficient excuse for its appearance, the cut being of secondary importance. Those satisfactory days have passed, and at the moment, there are many fashions in fur coats as there are in the cloth varieties. Sports furs, used to fashion complete coats, are invariably tailored. The straight, severe silhouette is always preserved, and, by way of an adornment, a spiral or diagonal border of similar pelt is utilised. In more eccentric instances, inletstrips of suede or kid are seen, and a smart waistbelt, finished with a jewelled fastener, is the last note. This design holds good for all the sleek furs. On the other hand, “fussiness” characterises a good many of the more valuable skins. There is a distinct tendency to fashion mole capes with the new bloused effect and the wide armholes. Tiered skirts are considered very attractive, -especially when combined with a shawl top. Even collars are exaggerated, and extravagant sailor affairs vie in popularity with more frivolous butterfly-bow arrangements. Combinations, such as Persian paw and sable, squirrel and dyed rabbit are even smarter than the unadorned skin.

Probably the greatest originality is displayed in the manipulating of fur trimming on cloth coats. It is definitely out-of-date to content oneself with simple collar and cuffs. Variations of the shawl collar sweep from the waistline, round the neck in a broadening band, and back again, while cuffs often extend from the wrist to well above the elbow in a wide flare. Fur also appears along the hemline in battlement treatment, fashioning quaintly-shaped pockets, or in the form of applique work. Tremendous diagonals of fur, which have the appearance of being slashed into the back of the coat, are another novelt3% as are the narrow bands of skin which alternate with materials from waist to hem.

These pelts are obtained in any eccentric shade you please. At the moment, a bronze tone, worked up with henna dyes, is most in demand, or failing that, one of the numerous plumcoloured tints. A distinctly blue tinge is noticeable about some of the shaded rabbit pelts, as also is a lovely peach colour.

WAYS WITH WALLPAPERS A couple of years ago my sittingroom was decorated with a gold wallpaper which was a joy to behold. Too soon, however, its gilt surface became dull and grimy. To re-paper would have meant considerable expense, and so, under expert advice, I gave it two coats of size and secondly a single coat of metallic paint in gold. The size prevented the paint, which is a very quick-drying one, from soaking into the paper and leaving behind only a powdery film of gold. which would soon have dropped away. The result is a wonderful and a lasting rejuvenation. Quite easy to apply is the new liquid wallpapers, which is made in numberless excellent shades, and which can be used after the manner of distemper. A pound of the preparation costs under a shilling, and covers some 20 square feet. When dry it not only looks exactly like a paper, but it even feels like one. and has a similar slightly shiny surface. It does not change colour with exposure and is not easily stained. The cleaning of wallpaper with dougK or bread is apt to leave streakiness in its train. But try using an old rubber sponge on the soiled surface; the dirt will roll off just as pencilmarks disappear from paper when indiarubber is used. To facilitate application, fix a band across the back of the sponge so that you can slip your hand under it, and use the sponge as a pad. Be sure that the rubber is clean and quite dry. Use it gently and with a circular movement. When making fruit salad, after the fruit has been cut up and the sugar added sprinkle a dessertspoon of brandy over the top and allow to stand for about half an hour. This helps to draw the juice and brings out the full fruit flavour. * * * Old knitted dresses and jumpers can be made to look like new if put in a colander over a saucepan of boiling water. The steam goes through the wool, and when taken out and shaken the garments look like new.