The Newest Skin for Smart Coats

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 59, 1 June 1927, Page 5

The Newest Skin for Smart Coats

AND OTHER DRESS ACCESSORIES

So popular has the advance-guard of calfskin garments proved that English furriers . are preparing for the extension of the fashion and have started making models, says a London correspondent. “We have just received our first large consignment of calfskin from abroad,” said a big wholesale fur merchant. “We did not import any skins last year.” “Those we have bought are of various sizes and colours—some spotted, some nearly all red, others red and black.” The Customer Will Decide Questioned as to which type of skin was most popular the reply was: “We really don’t know yet; we are waiting for the public to decide for themselves.” 'Only the skins of young calves are used for the coats. The hides of the older beasts would be too stiff to w'ork and far too heavy to wear. “Each skin varies, naturally, according to the age and size of the animal; a good average, large-sized skin will measure IS by 20 inches, although they sometimes run to 25 inches long. Little Waste “There is practically no waste, as the sides of the skin can be used for small collars, cuffs or strips for trimmings.” “Calfskin, I was told, wears quite well, and there is no reason why British skins should not be used. “Some of the skins are dressed here, as English tanning is supposed to be as good as any in the world.” .Waistcoats are generally made to order to go with some particular suit, and so are collars and cuffs, but the fashion is spreading to such an extent that a calfskin belt will be used on a black satin day-frock. Waiting for Public Demand The manager of a well-known furrier’s in Regent Street declared that the demand was small at present foi calfskin coats, and therefore they were not taking many into stock, although at any moment the Englishwoman might decide to take them up as enthusiastically as the women oh the Riviera. Another Point of View The fur firm which Lord Victor Paget has recently joined is, on the other hand, sponsoring them. “We use only the very smoothest skins —the younger the calf the smoother the hair. Some of these cost as much as £3 per skin, and they are not very large. A long coat may take as many as eleven or twelve skins—even more if much has to be cut away. “Here they make a speciality of short coats to be worn with skirts of material to tone. Seven or eight are frequently necessary for these; sometimes they have silk collars, others are finished with sable or squirrel.” Bags from France “All our calfskin bags come from France,” said a member of one of the most famous bag shops in Bond Street. “The French are so neat with their fingers, although their metal work—--1 clasps, hinges, and so on—is not equal to British workmanship.” A bag I was shown was made in what is called “the flat bag shape,” and costs £6 7s 6d. Another was in the popular bolster shape. “This is made of the veau mort-ne, as the French call it.” The skin of this is very, very soft—almost like fur, and is mainly white with just a few hairs of brown. It costs £4 17s 6d. A famous Piccadilly bootmaker told me that he was not making any calfskin shoes; there was no demand for them, and he thought that they would be impracticable for wear and difficult to clean. On the other hand, one shoemaker has already made several pairs to order. They should be cleaned with a little benzine, he says, and are far more suitable for “dress shoes” than fo country wear, as the mud would be difficult to clean off satisfactorily. A good-sized skin will make a pair and a half or probably two pairs of shoes, if the skin is flawless, and of reasonable size and the shoes on the small side.